ANSWERED Only have JR-Programmer installed (no RHG or R-JTAG) and stock NAND won't boot

z0oinks

Full Member
Jul 12, 2013
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So for the past year or so, I had a DemoN + R-JTAG setup working on my Jasper 16mb. Suddenly the hacked side stopped working all together. While trying to fix that, I somehow managed to f**k something up and make my Xbox unable to power on. Going backwards, I uninstalled my newly installed JRP, but nothing happened. Going even further, I took off everything, and then I was able to turn on my Xbox. However, it won't actually load. It gets to the Xbox logo and just sits there loading.
it's not frozen because I can see the logo pulsating, but it won't boot past that. So what can I do to get it to actually boot?

i also do have my CPU and DVD keys backed up, as well as dumps of my stock (currently on console) and hacked NANDS
 

keil423

VIP Member
Sounds like a failed update or un matching ldv.
For a failed update try pressing and holding the sync button. Continue to hold the sync and turn on the console. Keep holding the sync until the console boot or you determine its just not going to.
 

z0oinks

Full Member
Jul 12, 2013
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Held it for three minutes and all I saw was the glowing logo

should also mention the rf board doesn't light up at all.
 

gavin_darkglide

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Dec 14, 2012
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If you removed the jtag qsb, you probably burned the tiny resistor, and that is why your ROL isnt lighting up. I would start there.
 

z0oinks

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Jul 12, 2013
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C6U1? It actually got pulled off and was still on the QSB. Guessing that isn't good

edit: and it fell onto the carpet, never to be seen again.

However, the ROL wouldn't light even while the RJTAG was installed towards the end
 
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BL4K3Y

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Jul 7, 2010
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C6U1? It actually got pulled off and was still on the QSB. Guessing that isn't good

edit: and it fell onto the carpet, never to be seen again.

However, the ROL wouldn't light even while the RJTAG was installed towards the end
Did you check the R2P12 resistor?

It should measure 10K and be connected to pin 6 on the RF board header.
 

z0oinks

Full Member
Jul 12, 2013
75
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They're a little brown/orange but otherwise it looks fine. It isn't loose either

EDIT: Sigh...in my confusion trying to find the resistor, I forgot to measure it. But now I don't know if it's just my sh*tty multimeter sucking at everything or the resistor not working. Hold on a minute

EDIT2: I think it's just my multimeter. If I move the prods I get a reading for a split second, but I'm not sure if that's even reading the resistor. Let me shop around on Amazon (free 2-day shipping!) for something better

Edit3: Just ordered the Triplett 1011-B, seems pretty good. It'll be here Saturday so I'll report the resistance that night.
 
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z0oinks

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Jul 12, 2013
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I can't seem to get a reading off of R2P12 or R2P13 (or any small resistor really). Am I doing something wrong? I set my multimeter to test 200 Ohms, then touch the probes to the leads but nothing happens....Is there another,possibly easier, way of getting the probes to come in contact with the leads?
 

Krafter

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Apr 17, 2011
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I can't seem to get a reading off of R2P12 or R2P13 (or any small resistor really). Am I doing something wrong? I set my multimeter to test 200 Ohms, then touch the probes to the leads but nothing happens....Is there another,possibly easier, way of getting the probes to come in contact with the leads?
200 ohms is a low setting on the meter. Increase it by moving the dial until until get a reading.
 

z0oinks

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Jul 12, 2013
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Oh wow, I'm an idiot. I read 10K as 100...
Alright, so setting it to 20K I get 8.52, is that good enough?


And aren't you the guy who actually did my R-JTAG over at HacksDen?
 

Krafter

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Apr 17, 2011
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Indiana
Oh wow, I'm an idiot. I read 10K as 100...
Alright, so setting it to 20K I get 8.52, is that good enough?


And aren't you the guy who actually did my R-JTAG over at HacksDen?
I thought your name sounded familiar. If I remeber write your console was a pain in the ass lol.

That reading is a little low but I don't think that would be the reason for your problem. Did you remove the Demon? You could have used that instead of buying and installing a JRP. Either way, I would create a new retail NAND with J-Runner and write that and see if it will boot. Be sure to load your current backup in the source box so you can see what your LDV is supposed to be.
 

z0oinks

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Jul 12, 2013
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Just a question: what if I don't have my original nand? The one I have backed up now is the one on my console, and if building the new nand based off that doesn't work, I want to know if there's anything else I can do
 

Krafter

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Apr 17, 2011
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If all else fails, I should have a backup of your original NAND but the one you have now is what you want to start with because it will tell you the current LDV. Have a read of the J-Runner pdf (included with the download) and refer to section about creating a retail NAND.
 

z0oinks

Full Member
Jul 12, 2013
75
8
Ugh this is ridiculous

I made my new retail NAND perfectly, but now my JRP won't show up correctly. It worked fine the other day, but now it's only showing up as "usb input device". Before, it would only work in bootloader mode, but I fixed that by updating the firmware a couple of times. Only the red light shows up on the jrp

Edt: scratch that. When the switch is towards the reset button, it shows as bootloader. When the switch is away, there is no light and it doesn't show up on my computer
 
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Krafter

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Apr 17, 2011
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Put it back in bootloader mode again and reflash. Be sure to place the switch away from the button when done. I've never had issue with mine but I know they can be a little quirky at times.
 

z0oinks

Full Member
Jul 12, 2013
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I'm supposed to be flashing JRP_FIRMWARE_104.hex to it, right? I still can't get it to work right.

If I have it set to bootloader mode (switch towards reset) and plug it in, it shows a red light and comes up as bootloader. But, if I unplug it, put it in normal mode (switch away from reset) and plug it in, I get a really quickly-flashing green light but it doesn't show anything in JRunner. If I click the reset button, it turns red
 

z0oinks

Full Member
Jul 12, 2013
75
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Okay, so I finally got my JRP to turn on correctly. Turns out I was using the wrong hex update file....
anyway, I made the new nand without nanddump.bin by following the user guide, but now all I get is this

i tried writing back my original stock nand, and that didn't work, and then tried taking out the JRP just to make sure that wasn't causing any issues. This is also one of the problems I had before I took out all my RJTAG-related components
 

Krafter

VIP Member
Apr 17, 2011
3,737
118
Indiana
Okay, so I finally got my JRP to turn on correctly. Turns out I was using the wrong hex update file....
anyway, I made the new nand without nanddump.bin by following the user guide, but now all I get is this

i tried writing back my original stock nand, and that didn't work, and then tried taking out the JRP just to make sure that wasn't causing any issues. This is also one of the problems I had before I took out all my RJTAG-related components
Your link doesn't show me anything. Might be because I'm using my phone though.

Didn't you say you had a current NAND dump? If so then open it up in JR and take a screenshot of it. I'll build you a stock NAND so you can flash it. Won't be until much later though.
 
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