TRINITY PRE-CR4, How's my soldering?+Tuning advice

Orangeprofessor

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Idk you could try Google but I think they are close to the same. If you don't find anything I can test a slim when I get home. At work for the next hour
Would you please? That would help me a lot. I'm getting weird readings.
 

Orangeprofessor

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So I went on modchipcentral to see how much demons are and there was a warning that said : "2/18/15: DemoN SLIM will only work on the Corona version of the 360 SLIM."

So I can't use a demon with a trinity?! :(

EDIT: I tried using the points on the back of the mobo and those didnt work either. Are there any alts?
 
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BrockThunderjam

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That makes no sense. You can use any demon with any console if you try hard enough. That probably refers to the qsb included to convert from phat to slim. You can still do a wires install no problem.


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Orangeprofessor

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BrockThunderjam

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They must be selling demon phats with corona conversion qsbs.
 

Orangeprofessor

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BrockThunderjam

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This may sound stupid but will the corona conversion qsbs work with trinitys?
All the conversion qsbs do is relocate the demon qsb solder points to the corresponding pads on the motherboard for the corona. Given that the corona and trinity boards have different layouts, no it will not work on a trinity.

That said, you CAN do a wire install as I said with any demon on any board. Just depends on how much hassle you want to go through.
 

Orangeprofessor

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All the conversion qsbs do is relocate the demon qsb solder points to the corresponding pads on the motherboard for the corona. Given that the corona and trinity boards have different layouts, no it will not work on a trinity.

That said, you CAN do a wire install as I said with any demon on any board. Just depends on how much hassle you want to go through.
Which is more expensive/smarter? getting SB replaced or buying a demon?
 

BrockThunderjam

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Which is more expensive/smarter? getting SB replaced or buying a demon?
Uhhh, I'm not sure I know what you're asking? Let me go back and read through your thread to see in what context you're asking that.
 

ablegepu

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Ok console was done with a demon but i believe it is fine anyways but we will compare and see what differences ours have.

J2C1.1 = .540V
J2C1.2 = 3.3V
J2C1.3 = .540V
J2C1.4 = 42 OHMS


J2C3.5 = 3V
J2C3.6 = 5.91K OHMS

EDIT: I just went and looked at martin c's troubleshooting nandx errors guide and my points are pretty damn close to what he has wrote down.
 
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ablegepu

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by the way buying a demon is cheaper and reads/writes to the nand like a dream plus it is a dual nand device. Yes the any demon can be wired up to the board I have done one myself and it was fun. There are pictures of alt points to help but the demon and the motherboard points are very small and if you damage almost any of those points on the motherboard, the console will not start until they are repaired. JRP and Nand-X are SPI programmers. DemoN is a parallel programmer and it is fast. i doubt you have blown spi.

switch your meter to dc volts to check the ones that say (V) beside them. VDC is a straight line with 3 dashes below it.
 
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Orangeprofessor

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Ok console was done with a demon but i believe it is fine anyways but we will compare and see what differences ours have.

J2C1.1 = .540V
J2C1.2 = 3.3V
J2C1.3 = .540V
J2C1.4 = 42 OHMS


J2C3.5 = 3V
J2C3.6 = 5.91K OHMS

EDIT: I just went and looked at martin c's troubleshooting nandx errors guide and my points are pretty damn close to what he has wrote down.
I'll test those tomorrow. I have made a strange discovery. I resoldered the 5v back to the CR4 and when I plug the PSU in, the pwr led on CR4 the dims slightly every second. What does this mean? (The voltage across the line is still 5v)
 

Orangeprofessor

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idk if you mean on the cr4 then it shouldn't do that. check your ground and power, and test the voltage on the red wire.
It had a floating ground. Fixed
 

Orangeprofessor

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Ok console was done with a demon but i believe it is fine anyways but we will compare and see what differences ours have.

J2C1.1 = .540V
J2C1.2 = 3.3V
J2C1.3 = .540V
J2C1.4 = 42 OHMS


J2C3.5 = 3V
J2C3.6 = 5.91K OHMS

EDIT: I just went and looked at martin c's troubleshooting nandx errors guide and my points are pretty damn close to what he has wrote down.
J2C1.1 = 0v, 1.6K ohms
J2C1.2 = 3.2v
J2C1.3 = 0v, 41 ohms
J2C1.4 = 114mV 1.2M ohms
J2C3.5 = 3v
J2C3.6 = 5.95K ohms

What broke?

I also watched XJonnyGunsX's video of a trinity slim demon install. Looks pretty fun.

Dumb Question: Does the corona post fix adapter work with trinitys as well?

Also for a demon wire install, I'm assuming you just solder in the wires that come with the demon and not the qsb points?
 
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ablegepu

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You don't test resistance (ohms) on the pads that I have marked volts you only test Dc voltage on those. If one of mine says ohms then switch your meter to ohms and check. Just so you know certain pads are marked on the headers with numbers but all of the pads are round on a header except for the number 1 pad (it is square) so start at the square pad (#1) and beside of it is #2 then g back over below #1 and that is #3. Etc.

So looking at the board the pads are numbered like this

(2)--[1]----------(2)--[1]
(4)--(3)----------(4)--(3)
(6)--(5)----------(6)--(5)
-----(7)----------(8)--(7)
-----------------(10)--(9)
-----------------(12)--(11)
-----------------------(13)

Set your meter to 12volts dc and recheck to make sure you readings are correct and hold your probes there until you get a good steady reading. Only test resistance on J2C1.4 AND J2C3.6 even though they look right anyways. Looks like you got j2c1.3 & j2c1.4 backwards. And I believe what martin c meant by (~1v) was under 1 volt so you should be getting some kind of voltage at all the points that aren't measured in ohms.
Slim demons are made specifically for the trinity there were never any conversion qsb made for the trinity. What you need to do is start a thread in the request for service or item section and ask for anyone willing to sell a slim demon for a trinity. Otherwise you will have to do a wire install. I'm sure there are some people on here that are willing to part with one.

No need for post fix adapter on trinity even if you lifted the post-out pad it can still be soldered to the trace under the heatsink
And yes a wire install means not using the quick solder points but using wires. You will need the wires regardless but you will need to have more wire for all of the quick solder points. I recommend using 30-32 gauge solid magnet wire with enamel coating for all of the quick solder points, but that is just my personal preference.
 

Orangeprofessor

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Oct 27, 2013
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You don't test resistance (ohms) on the pads that I have marked volts you only test Dc voltage on those. If one of mine says ohms then switch your meter to ohms and check. Just so you know certain pads are marked on the headers with numbers but all of the pads are round on a header except for the number 1 pad (it is square) so start at the square pad (#1) and beside of it is #2 then g back over below #1 and that is #3. Etc.

So looking at the board the pads are numbered like this

(2)--[1]----------(2)--[1]
(4)--(3)----------(4)--(3)
(6)--(5)----------(6)--(5)
-----(7)----------(8)--(7)
-----------------(10)--(9)
-----------------(12)--(11)
-----------------------(13)

Set your meter to 12volts dc and recheck to make sure you readings are correct and hold your probes there until you get a good steady reading. Only test resistance on J2C1.4 AND J2C3.6 even though they look right anyways. Looks like you got j2c1.3 & j2c1.4 backwards. And I believe what martin c meant by (~1v) was under 1 volt so you should be getting some kind of voltage at all the points that aren't measured in ohms.
Slim demons are made specifically for the trinity there were never any conversion qsb made for the trinity. What you need to do is start a thread in the request for service or item section and ask for anyone willing to sell a slim demon for a trinity. Otherwise you will have to do a wire install. I'm sure there are some people on here that are willing to part with one.

No need for post fix adapter on trinity even if you lifted the post-out pad it can still be soldered to the trace under the heatsink
And yes a wire install means not using the quick solder points but using wires. You will need the wires regardless but you will need to have more wire for all of the quick solder points. I recommend using 30-32 gauge solid magnet wire with enamel coating for all of the quick solder points, but that is just my personal preference.
Request thread created: http://team-xecuter.com/forums/showthread.php?150531-Slim-Trinity-Demon-Needed

Updated Installation Pics:

20150512_205800.jpg20150512_210042.jpg