TRINITY PRE-CR4, How's my soldering?+Tuning advice

[Orangeprofessor]

this is why i cut the plugs off and make nice solid legs wrapped in heatshrink and soldered on to the nand wires and I read nands with a direct connection to the board with the wires. those qsb's can be really tricky, even if it looks perfect it can always have a problem, or some little tiny piece of wire stuck under the qsb that causes all sorts of errors.

Should I remove the qsb?

 

[ablegepu]

that is up to you and only if you have done it before or if you are confident you can remove it without ripping up and pads/traces, also it depends on whether you want to cut the ends off of your wires. If you have tested both of the headers each point tested with each adjacent point and none of them made a beep then they are not touching and if you tested each pin with the header on the bottom of the board and they all beeped then they are good. but if you still cant get a read on the nand, as a last ditch effort yeah I would remove the qsb just to rule it out but be very careful. Someone said the other day you can put wax paper between each point and the mobo as you melt the points to make it easier to remove the qsb.

btw you got lots of hits on your demon wanted thread..

 

[Orangeprofessor]

that is up to you and only if you have done it before or if you are confident you can remove it without ripping up and pads/traces, also it depends on whether you want to cut the ends off of your wires. If you have tested both of the headers each point tested with each adjacent point and none of them made a beep then they are not touching and if you tested each pin with the header on the bottom of the board and they all beeped then they are good. but if you still cant get a read on the nand, as a last ditch effort yeah I would remove the qsb just to rule it out but be very careful. Someone said the other day you can put wax paper between each point and the mobo as you melt the points to make it easier to remove the qsb.

I am getting continuity from the bottom -> top of the mobo. Plus I removed the slim_post qsb that was soldered on to this board after one of the pads on the qsb got ripped off. but then again there are more points on the nand qsb then there are on the slim_post qsb.

 

[ablegepu]

yea but the header pads are a lot harder to rip off then regular pads are you will destroy the qsb before ripping any of the header pads.

 

[Orangeprofessor]

yea but the header pads are a lot harder to rip off then regular pads are you will destroy the qsb before ripping any of the header pads.

I'll try some of this tomorrow

 

[MTWallet]

I don't remember if the solder point out at the end of the QSB near the word "TRINITY" was just a hold down point or a required solder point, or if it even relates to reading the NAND, but it looks like you haven't soldered anything there. Hang on for confirmation that you need to solder it though, before you do. Also, I noticed you don't have the postbit jumper installed in your CR4 picture, which would cause the CR4 not to glitch. This may be intentional as I know you were booting back to stock to verify it still worked.

 

[Orangeprofessor]

I don't remember if the solder point out at the end of the QSB near the word "TRINITY" was just a hold down point or a required solder point, or if it even relates to reading the NAND, but it looks like you haven't soldered anything there. Hang on for confirmation that you need to solder it though, before you do. Also, I noticed you don't have the postbit jumper installed in your CR4 picture, which would cause the CR4 not to glitch. This may be intentional as I know you were booting back to stock to verify it still worked.

I didn't want to solder the STBY_clck point from the qsb to the point because the qsb was slightly bent upward. I felt that it might have put too much pressure on the pad and tear it off.

Is that point needed to read nand? I was able to do it before without it.

 

[Orangeprofessor]

How exactly to I remove a QSB without breaking everything?

 

[ablegepu]

Start off by removing as much solder as you can with solder wick or desoldering braid. Whichever name you call it. Then start on on end and get 1 or 2 points molten and when they are ready slide a piece of wax paper through the solder to separate those 2 points from the board then do the same with the next 2 points use something small to wedge under the qsb to apply slight pressure to lift up the qsb then melt 2 points and slide the wax paper up between this points and do the same with the next 2 etc.etc. you should be able to melt 2 points at a time fairly easy.

No Stby clk is not needed for nand reading.

 

[Orangeprofessor]

Start off by removing as much solder as you can with solder wick or desoldering braid. Whichever name you call it. Then start on on end and get 1 or 2 points molten and when they are ready slide a piece of wax paper through the solder to separate those 2 points from the board then do the same with the next 2 points use something small to wedge under the qsb to apply slight pressure to lift up the qsb then melt 2 points and slide the wax paper up between this points and do the same with the next 2 etc.etc. you should be able to melt 2 points at a time fairly easy.

The wax paper sounds like it'll melt and make a mess. right?

 

[nofeloniesyet]

The wax paper sounds like it'll melt and make a mess. right?

no,i use it to remove demons and qsb all the time.

 

[ablegepu]

Yeah credit to nofeloniesyet on that one. He mentioned it in a thread a week or so ago and I had to try it and it worked great. Works really well when you fold the piece to where the wax is facing outwards on both sides.

 

[Orangeprofessor]

Yeah credit to nofeloniesyet on that one. He mentioned it in a thread a week or so ago and I had to try it and it worked great. Works really well when you fold the piece to where the wax is facing outwards on both sides.

I'll try it, hope I dont rip a cap.

 

[ablegepu]

Take it easy not too much pressure on the qsb just a little lift pressure is all. And don't hold heat to the pads for too long if you feel like you have been on a spot for more than 15 seconds stop and let it cool and try again. And after you get two points separated stop and let it cool and then move on to the next 2 points.

 

[Orangeprofessor]

Take it easy not too much pressure on the qsb just a little lift pressure is all. And don't hold heat to the pads for too long if you feel like you have been on a spot for more than 15 seconds stop and let it cool and try again. And after you get two points separated stop and let it cool and then move on to the next 2 points.

Just removed the qsb and I did NO DAMAGE to the board!!!!!!!! I didnt see any caps missing or anything!!!!!!!!!!!:cool2::cool2: resoldering nand wires now
EDIT: still got a flash config 0x00000000 :facepalm::frown::crazy::mad2:

 

[Orangeprofessor]

Also, Which point is the K point on the mobo?
EDIT: nvm found it. but y am i still getting a zerod flash config. I also get 0xFFFFFFFF sometimes.

are there any nand points (besides the back of the board) that I can solder to?

 

[ablegepu]

I dont know really but start by cleaning up the board really good and go over it with a fine tooth comb and look it every carefully for broken traces for missing/ broken components.

 

[Orangeprofessor]

I dont know really but start by cleaning up the board really good and go over it with a fine tooth comb and look it every carefully for broken traces for missing/ broken components.

The yellow wire on the nand wires goes to ground rite?

 

[Orangeprofessor]

New voltage readings

J2C1.1 = 54.2 mV
J2C1.2 = 3.2 V
J2C1.3 = 46 mV
J2C1.4 = 41 Ohms

J2C3.5 = 3 V
J2C3.6 = 5.85K ohms

 

[Orangeprofessor]

Stupid idea: Can I solder directly to the nand chip and get a read from that?

Also, is R1D5 supposed to be missing?