Problem getting BIOS to boot w/ v1.4 and 2.6ce

1998chevy1500

Noob Account
Sep 29, 2005
8
0
Hello everyone,

I am new to modding and as such I have been reading alot of the forum to learn more. Anyway I went out and bought a Xecuter 2.6ce for my Xbox v1.4. I installed it according to the instructions, and have checked and rechecked my solder connections.

Now for the problem, with it all hooked up no matter wether I have the mod chip on or off it always boots up to the M$ dash. With the chip on everything seems to light up normally, a couple lights on the switch and one blue on on the mod chip. But no matter what I do it always boots M$. I was under the impression that this chip has a preinstalled bios. Shouldn't it boot to the "Cromwell" bios with the chip on?

Anyone have any solutions for this??

Thankx
Conrad
 

kim123

Full Member
Sep 12, 2005
31
0
Sydney - Australia
Sounds like you are missing your D0 point. Check that you got it in the correct place and that there is good contact with it. Did you do a solderless install?
 

digthebox

VIP Member
Dec 2, 2004
595
0
UK
yep, i would agree with kim123. Almost definitely your D0.

Your D0 is what switches your xbox to booting from the reatil bios to booting from a bios via the LPC. You are obviously getting power to the chip as everything is lighting up properly as you said. Touch up that D0 connection.
 

1998chevy1500

Noob Account
Sep 29, 2005
8
0
Ok so I've done some more trouble shooting. I found that if I manually ground a D0 point I could get the ModBIOS to come up, so I naturally assumed that my D0 solder was bad. I resoldered the D0, still the same problem. Well concidering that I have resoldered the D0 atleast 5 times already it is safe to say that it is good. I tested this fact by unhooking the 3 wire D0/Lan/HDD wire and then grounding out the gray D0 wire while booting the Xbox. Guess what the ModBIOS booted up. So obviously all of my soldering is good as the BIOS will boot up just fine if I ground out the gray wire. So the next logical question would be what would cause the chip to not ground the D0 wire so as to turn on the chip? My only other possibe explanation as to why it is not working is that I have a bad ground solder for the chip. I'm going to check that right now. Nope, I ran an alternate ground to the ground on the chip, still doesn't work.

So do I have a bad chip? something else f-ed up? Any ideas?

Conrad
 

1998chevy1500

Noob Account
Sep 29, 2005
8
0
Thankx for the responses guys, I figured my soldering of the D0 was bad, but as I said I can ground the gray wire on the connector end and make the ModBIOS boot up. So unless the chip doesn't seem to give as strong of a ground signal as manually grounding it it would be safe to say that the D0 soldering is just fine. I guess I'll check and see if the chip creates a good solid ground on the D0 pin.

Conrad
 

1998chevy1500

Noob Account
Sep 29, 2005
8
0
Allright so I back probed the D0 wire with a DMM during startup with the chip turned on. What I got with reference to ground was a reading of ~5v on the gray wire. Shouldn't this be ground? Could it be possible that the chip is accidentally putting out 5v? Does the Xbox board put out 5v on the D0 line? Not sure how to interpret this result and if it is right or wrong.

Thankx
Conrad
 

1998chevy1500

Noob Account
Sep 29, 2005
8
0
So I booted up the Xbox again, this time with the D0/Lan/HDD wire disconnected from the chip. I read the voltage on the D0 line with reference to ground. I got ~5v, so apparently the D0 wire is normally at 5v when the Xbox is running. Correct? Anyway shut it down and rebooted this time with the gray wire shorted to ground. Once again the ModBIOS booted up just fine. So my guess is that somehow the chip isn't grounding out the D0 wire like it is supposed to. Any way to troubleshoot that problem? Could it be in the switch? The chip? Wire between the two?

Conrad
 

Big_Whoopin

VIP Member
Jan 29, 2004
811
0
SE Pennsylvania, USA
Check your switches. The enable/disable switch does two functions. First is that it sends out 5v to the different LEDs on the switch bank and back down to the chip. This lights the blue LED and may provide other functionality. Second, and the more important function is that it grounds the D0 wire. Sometimes these switches can be flaky, you may want to check this out. With the switch in the enabled position you should have continuity between pins 2 and 4, 4 being the common ground for the switch bank. Read up on my breakdown of the switch bank here, it should assist you in checking out the circuit that follows after the grey D0 wire plugs into the chip.

Basically, with your switch enabled you should have continuity between the D0 point and any ground point in your Xbox, metal shielding included.

-Whoopin'
 

1998chevy1500

Noob Account
Sep 29, 2005
8
0
Big_Whoopin said:
Check your switches. The enable/disable switch does two functions. First is that it sends out 5v to the different LEDs on the switch bank and back down to the chip. This lights the blue LED and may provide other functionality. Second, and the more important function is that it grounds the D0 wire. Sometimes these switches can be flaky, you may want to check this out. With the switch in the enabled position you should have continuity between pins 2 and 4, 4 being the common ground for the switch bank. Read up on my breakdown of the switch bank here, it should assist you in checking out the circuit that follows after the grey D0 wire plugs into the chip.

Basically, with your switch enabled you should have continuity between the D0 point and any ground point in your Xbox, metal shielding included.

-Whoopin'
Oh my goodness, thank you!!!! It turned out to be the switch. I found that most of the time when I measure continutity between where ground comes into the enable switch and where the wire goes out to the enable pin I can only get continutity maybe 1 out of 10 times I flip the switch. I understand what I said is hard to visualize with my bad description and I will post a modified version of your picture illistrateing what I mean. Anyway the next question is, where do I go to get a replacement switch, either a whole new replacement switch assembly or even just a new switch to solder in place of this bad one?

Thankx for all the help everyone

Conrad