Ok... so I've overcome one problem and I think another... but I still haven't been able to get my xbox to load other than with the chip disabled.
The problem with the reset adapter not working was that there were two points soldered together behind the adhesive. I see that there are a lot of people with this problem so maybe that should be added to the stickies.
Now, I'm pretty damn sure my d0 is in the right spot as well, but my xbox still does the fragging twice then staying on with the red/green. Only reason I'm making another topic now is because every time someone has this, they're told to check their d0 and I've become convinced that my d0 is in the right spot.
So my question is (assuming it's a bad solder for one of the points on the pin header).... can I determine which points are bad by process of elimination? Both blue LED's on the chip light up... so does that mean that a few of the points are good? And if so... which ones?
I can now start my xbox with the chip in and disabled by holding the power button for a second while booting on but I get the 2x frag problem if I tap the power or eject button to power up. Before, I would have to remove the chip altogether to get the system to load M$. Although that surely could have had to do with my problem with the adapter.
I've got a multimeter and I'd love to use it to make my job easier but I have NO CLUE as to how to check the pin header solder joints, nor do I know which setting to put the multimeter on or where to put the leads. Even though I'm pretty sure that my d0 is now in the correct spot, can that be confirmed with a multimeter as well? Before I read that I just put the black lead on a ground and put the red lead on what I wanted to test... thought it'd be easy... but apparently that's wrong. Can anyone help me in any of these situations? I'd love to start making more progress!
The problem with the reset adapter not working was that there were two points soldered together behind the adhesive. I see that there are a lot of people with this problem so maybe that should be added to the stickies.
Now, I'm pretty damn sure my d0 is in the right spot as well, but my xbox still does the fragging twice then staying on with the red/green. Only reason I'm making another topic now is because every time someone has this, they're told to check their d0 and I've become convinced that my d0 is in the right spot.
So my question is (assuming it's a bad solder for one of the points on the pin header).... can I determine which points are bad by process of elimination? Both blue LED's on the chip light up... so does that mean that a few of the points are good? And if so... which ones?
I can now start my xbox with the chip in and disabled by holding the power button for a second while booting on but I get the 2x frag problem if I tap the power or eject button to power up. Before, I would have to remove the chip altogether to get the system to load M$. Although that surely could have had to do with my problem with the adapter.
I've got a multimeter and I'd love to use it to make my job easier but I have NO CLUE as to how to check the pin header solder joints, nor do I know which setting to put the multimeter on or where to put the leads. Even though I'm pretty sure that my d0 is now in the correct spot, can that be confirmed with a multimeter as well? Before I read that I just put the black lead on a ground and put the red lead on what I wanted to test... thought it'd be easy... but apparently that's wrong. Can anyone help me in any of these situations? I'd love to start making more progress!