Quick solder pads lifted what do I do?
- Thread starter etgamingx
- Start date
theagent
VIP Member
bud, you're making a mess of things... I applaud your persistence and enthusiasm in doing this yourself, but you're going to end up ruining that board if you continue. You need to either send it to someone who's experienced, or practice a bit of soldering/desoldering on junk boards and start over. Use a multimeter to check continuity. Remove all of that solder first.
i did check with a multimeter and all are good , my last hope is to get the e79 kit
Martin C
VIP Member
From experience, the problem may be elsewhere.
With the board unplugged, switch your multimeter to KOhms and put the black probe on a ground point and the red probe on J2D2.1 and J2D2.2 in turn. You want the reading at the point itself.
Let me know what you get.
With the board unplugged, switch your multimeter to KOhms and put the black probe on a ground point and the red probe on J2D2.1 and J2D2.2 in turn. You want the reading at the point itself.
Let me know what you get.
Martin C
VIP Member
Either you didn't understand what I asked or you didnt read it right.
Can you give me your KOhm readings for J2D2.1 and J2D2.2 (from the points on the board) ?
well i will admit that solder is better than your first attempt but you still need more practice you shouldn't heat the wires so much to the point where the wire coating melts not a good sign glad to hear you haven completely destroyed your project YET tho.
a few thing i personal see wrong with the solder job that i dont like aside from the wires over heating (so you know what to practice and for personal reference), the wires seem to just be soldered on top of the LPC holes where as on ALL my installs if there is an empty hole that i need to attach a wire too (like the JTAG wiring for example) i ALWAYS remove the solder from the hole tin the wire (wire tinning is easy dip the end of the wire in the flux put a small amount of solder on the iron and slide the tip of the iron across the fluxed bare wire to coat the wire with solder) than insert tined wire into the hole and simply heat it, i never have any bare exposed wire hanging around for a potential short, the wire coating is always flush with the board, this makes for a nice clean look as well as safe and secure solder joints.
another good tip is if you notice the wire coating getting hot or you feel the heat moving up the wire by where you are holding it remove the iron you can always re heat / remelt the solder its not like your welding or any thing
and most of all be patient if you have to solder one joint and take a break work slowly i find when i get in a rush is when i screw things up ill personaly take about 2hrs or so doing some thing like this just to be slow safe secure and proper
desoldering sucks i havent developed a technique for the desoldering braid and really cant stand it lol, as far as good tools to use for desoldering the best thing i have found for clearing things like the LPC port for the JTAG wiring is a desoldering bulb ( http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062742 ) as i can heat the solder from the LPC port from the other side (back side of the board) suck the solder from the hole
desoldering physical components is a completely different animal than simply clearing an LPC hole i ushually use a desoldering iron for components ( http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062731 ) but in your case and for your project this pointer is kind of null
as martin says if your original NAND works im doubting your soldering is whats causing the problem, listen to him on the tech stuff as far as the checking with the multimeter and what no i have no real clue about any of this.
if all else fails and you get rid of your snowy screen issue (which is apparently a GPU issue as previously stated) try the transistor wireing method and/or alt wiring (AUD_CLAMP, DVD_TRY)
what kind of board is this for curiosity's sake any ways (the pic looks like a xenon)?
in my opinion even tho your soldering skills have appeared to improve significantly since your last attempt you should still practice just a little bit more, grab another old circuit board and practice practice practice, there is no such thing as over prepared in case's like this.
if you would like to and im sure people that are trying to help you wouldn't mine either post up pics of your practice soldering so we can help you perfect/improve it by giving you pointers and such.
i still strongly suggest that you get this fixed by some one more experienced than your self however it seems that you are rather persistent (not that this is bad) in doing it your self, and if you are determined to still do it your self than good luck to you and hopefully you accomplish your goal, remember im not flaming or trying to be judgmental or any thing like that (beleive me i have screwed up my fare share of projects b not using flux and not being prepared to take on a soldering job) just trying to give you pointers to help you along
a few thing i personal see wrong with the solder job that i dont like aside from the wires over heating (so you know what to practice and for personal reference), the wires seem to just be soldered on top of the LPC holes where as on ALL my installs if there is an empty hole that i need to attach a wire too (like the JTAG wiring for example) i ALWAYS remove the solder from the hole tin the wire (wire tinning is easy dip the end of the wire in the flux put a small amount of solder on the iron and slide the tip of the iron across the fluxed bare wire to coat the wire with solder) than insert tined wire into the hole and simply heat it, i never have any bare exposed wire hanging around for a potential short, the wire coating is always flush with the board, this makes for a nice clean look as well as safe and secure solder joints.
another good tip is if you notice the wire coating getting hot or you feel the heat moving up the wire by where you are holding it remove the iron you can always re heat / remelt the solder its not like your welding or any thing
and most of all be patient if you have to solder one joint and take a break work slowly i find when i get in a rush is when i screw things up ill personaly take about 2hrs or so doing some thing like this just to be slow safe secure and proper
desoldering sucks i havent developed a technique for the desoldering braid and really cant stand it lol, as far as good tools to use for desoldering the best thing i have found for clearing things like the LPC port for the JTAG wiring is a desoldering bulb ( http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062742 ) as i can heat the solder from the LPC port from the other side (back side of the board) suck the solder from the hole
desoldering physical components is a completely different animal than simply clearing an LPC hole i ushually use a desoldering iron for components ( http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062731 ) but in your case and for your project this pointer is kind of null
as martin says if your original NAND works im doubting your soldering is whats causing the problem, listen to him on the tech stuff as far as the checking with the multimeter and what no i have no real clue about any of this.
if all else fails and you get rid of your snowy screen issue (which is apparently a GPU issue as previously stated) try the transistor wireing method and/or alt wiring (AUD_CLAMP, DVD_TRY)
what kind of board is this for curiosity's sake any ways (the pic looks like a xenon)?
in my opinion even tho your soldering skills have appeared to improve significantly since your last attempt you should still practice just a little bit more, grab another old circuit board and practice practice practice, there is no such thing as over prepared in case's like this.
if you would like to and im sure people that are trying to help you wouldn't mine either post up pics of your practice soldering so we can help you perfect/improve it by giving you pointers and such.
i still strongly suggest that you get this fixed by some one more experienced than your self however it seems that you are rather persistent (not that this is bad) in doing it your self, and if you are determined to still do it your self than good luck to you and hopefully you accomplish your goal, remember im not flaming or trying to be judgmental or any thing like that (beleive me i have screwed up my fare share of projects b not using flux and not being prepared to take on a soldering job) just trying to give you pointers to help you along
Teajunkie
VIP Member
It's ok i can see the issue already and im surprised no one else has seen it.
You have gum on the board.
I would say thats hubba bubba you need to use wrigleys for a good jtag.
And seriously though have you built the nand image using the aud clamp option?
You have gum on the board.
I would say thats hubba bubba you need to use wrigleys for a good jtag.
And seriously though have you built the nand image using the aud clamp option?
Thnkx for the pointers as they have bettered me tremendously . When I solder I solder the wires into the hole and the coating melted cuz I touched the iron on it by mistake.. I think at this point my only option is to do the 300ohm method because I've checked and rechecked and flashed xell/xbr like 20 different ways and still no luck ... If u could help me with this later throughout team viewer I'd really appreciate it .... I refuse tO give up on this
Martin C
VIP Member
It's a xenon, so no additional options should be chosen. You STILL haven't provided resistance values as asked and I can assure you, there is zero point in you continuing as if one is wrong, nothing is going to work.
Martin C
VIP Member
keil423
VIP Member
PM From OP states that xell is not functional. Meaning he hasnt gotten xell to work so no Key has been retrieved. SMC points are not a part of this problem as for one we are not there yet and two like martin said its a xenon, there should only be one way to do this.
Problem must be soldering if xell wont work. That or your useing HD or HDMI. Xell does require standard def AV wires. NO HD
Problem must be soldering if xell wont work. That or your useing HD or HDMI. Xell does require standard def AV wires. NO HD
one of the questions teajunkie asked was did he build the image using Aud_Clamp...it looks like he replied yes! I looked at the last photo and didn't see any wires connecting a nandx or LPT, how did he build his image if he didn't have the CPU Key already
keil423
VIP Member
I'm using reg component I have one that switches between hd and av could that be the proble
keil423
VIP Member
Martin C
VIP Member