R-JTAG CR4 XL Falcon Not Booting

[andar]

Console Type: Falcon
Programmer Used: JRP v2.0
NAND Size: 256 (I think, P/N: HY27US08281A)
Dashboard version: 2.0.17150.0
CB Version: 5774 (I think?)
Screenshot of NAND details from J-Runner: [See attached]
Image of the CR4 XL [See Below]
Images of close-up soldering to motherboard [See Below]
Was the console working before you started: Yes
Do you get a green debug light appear on the CR4 XL chip every 4-5 seconds: No

Update 5/7/15: See page 2 for the new and improved install pics and JRunner log.

Hey guys, I'm new to the JTAG/RGH world and I need some help. I followed Noobert's Guide to installing the CR4XL R-JTAG+, made some pretty stupid/careless mistakes and I'm having issues.

I dumped the NAND, created and wrote the xell-reloaded with no issues. When I went to install the CR4 XL I had an issue. When soldering the white wire (pin A on CR4XL) onto the motherboard, I accidentally removed R7R17 from the PCB and it was instantly lost. Luckily, I found a schematic and was able to replace the 10k resistor. Unfortunately the smallest I could find was an 0603 package which is larger than original. It's messy, but I did continuity and resistance checks and the circuit doesn't seem to be damaged. You can see this in the first picture, sorry my camera wouldn't zoom any further.

When I went to first boot, I made the stupid mistake of plugging the DVD drive's power cable in backwards. It smelled like something was cooked and I was getting a 3 LED RROD. After a quick google search, I found that others had done the same and replaced a 0ohm resistor in the drive, so I did that. Now, it starts without any RROD and the drive does it's initialization movements. Nothing else happens after this point. I tried POST monitoring through J-Runner and it doesn't budge past "Post 01".

I read somewhere to disconnect the 5V from the CR4, and flash the original nand dump back to the console to see if it still works, however when I did that I get a RROD with error code 0020 [E08: Unconfirmed: General I/O Malfunction, could be caused by an error with any of the I/O devies such as A/V port, USB, Hard drive, DVD drive, etc. over torquing of the AV or heatsync bolts can cause this error.]

I went back to the Xell-reloaded nand and I'm RROD free, but still no booting. I've tried HDMI and standard A/V.

Any clue where I went wrong? Or if I am doing something wrong?

Pictures of my install, I apologize for the iPhone quality:

 

[ablegepu]

yeah we are definitely going to need pictures of the install as well as the damaged areas and also the JR log file inside your jrunner folder before we can give you any worthwhile advice. What you got here isn't really enough to go on, for me anyway.

 

[briggs01]

get some pics up budy so someone can pop on and take a look , see where if anything you have gone wrong

 

[andar]

C'mon, you guys couldn't come up with a magic fix for me while I slept?! :biggrin:

Updated with pics and here's the log from my JRunner Folder. If you need any more details or pics from me, I will provide them ASAP.

I know my soldering isn't the best, but I've seen a lot worse on here. And before you criticize my wire placement, it was going to be cleaned up before final re-assembly.

Thanks for your help in advance!

 

[BrockThunderjam]

Get rid of that double shielded cable asap. It's too thick and inflexible and puts too much pressure on pads.


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[andar]

Get rid of that double shielded cable asap. It's too thick and inflexible and puts too much pressure on pads.


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Do you recommend using the standard blue wire?

 

[BrockThunderjam]

Yes, or kynar.


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[ablegepu]

That resistor looks horrible I know you can redo it and do better than that.

 

[andar]

It does look horrible, I won't disagree with you. There's a good chance I'll be redoing that next.

One thing I forgot to mention is the LEDs for my fan are pulsating when the console is running, don't know if that means anything.

I removed the shielded reset and went to the standard blue wire and now I'm finally seeing some activity on the green DEBUG LED on the CR4

 

[BrockThunderjam]

Did you try dips 3 and 7 at the same time?


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[andar]

I did try that DIP setting last night with no luck, yes. I also messed around with different jumper settings.

I'm at my office now. I just fixed resistor R7R17 with the proper package size (10kohm +-5% 0402 in case anyone is wondering) and it looks much better. I'm going to reflow the rest of my connections quick and try again.

If I did damage to the DVD drive, would the console still at least boot with video? The drive is at least spinning up, but not sure how much damage I really did.

 

[BrockThunderjam]

Unplug the Dvd drive. It should boot without it and it will eliminate it being at fault.


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[ablegepu]

Yeah what Brock said you don't even need the dvd drive plugged in to boot to xell and get CPU key, the center green light on the rol board will just constantly flash with it unplugged is all. I'm at work so haven't had a chance to check the jr log yet, I'm assuming everything checked out OK on it.

 

[andar]

Good news and bad news!

Bad news: The reset pad lifted off the CR4 and then I attempted to solder directly to the IC pin and did some damage to the CR4 PCB. I'm going to have the technician at work take a look at it on Monday, but I'm pretty sure it's burned up beyond repair. I took a picture with the microscope below to show the damage. If someone thinks its salvageable, please let me know (I highly doubt it).

Good news: I removed the CR4, turned off the QSB, wrote the orig NAND and now the console is working as normal.

I'm pissed at myself for getting careless with the soldering and trying to rush it, but I'm glad that nothing was damaged on the xbox.

Thanks for all your input so far. I'm practically back to square one, but hopefully I'll be back in business soon.



Fixed R7R17:


Fixed R207 in DVD Drive (should have gone up a package size, but it meets spec and fits):

 

[briggs01]

Good news and bad news!

Bad news: The reset pad lifted off the CR4 and then I attempted to solder directly to the IC pin and did some damage to the CR4 PCB. I'm going to have the technician at work take a look at it on Monday, but I'm pretty sure it's burned up beyond repair. I took a picture with the microscope below to show the damage. If someone thinks its salvageable, please let me know (I highly doubt it).

Good news: I removed the CR4, turned off the QSB, wrote the orig NAND and now the console is working as normal.

I'm pissed at myself for getting careless with the soldering and trying to rush it, but I'm glad that nothing was damaged on the xbox.

Thanks for all your input so far. I'm practically back to square one, but hopefully I'll be back in business soon.

View attachment 32200

Fixed R7R17:
View attachment 32201

Fixed R207 in DVD Drive (should have gone up a package size, but it meets spec and fits):
View attachment 32202

I was going to say in my first post you should stop and send it to a pro , but I didn't , this isn't something you just buy and do yourself like plugging a new tv in , it take practice , to be honest your soldering is not that bad , you just need a little bit more practice using a soldering iron , if you lifted the pad , you put too much heat too long

 

[andar]

Yeah, I made some stupid mistakes. I just realized I put that R207 one pad too far right, I'm on a roll today :frown:

 

[ablegepu]

damn what are you soldering with, a blowtorch?:wink: How did you manage to do that to the chip on the cr4? And like briggs said way too much heat for way too long.

 

[andar]

damn what are you soldering with, a blowtorch?:wink: How did you manage to do that to the chip on the cr4? And like briggs said way too much heat for way too long.

Well duh, I use the same propane torch I used to sweat my pipes :cool2:.

In all seriousness, I looked at the iron today and she had it set at 780. I swore it said 680 when I looked, but I looked wrong for sure. New CR4 ordered, now I play the waiting game.

 

[briggs01]

Well duh, I use the same propane torch I used to sweat my pipes :cool2:.

In all seriousness, I looked at the iron today and she had it set at 780. I swore it said 680 when I looked, but I looked wrong for sure. New CR4 ordered, now I play the waiting game.

680 is too high as well mate

 

[Nadles]

Yeah I use the bare minimum to melt my solder. 600F ish. Way to much heat for too long. We've all lifted pads here and there, it's a matter of if you can salvage it. Lesson learned. The only time I'm using 700F or higher, is soldering to a case/big copper ground. Now you have a practice motherboard.