JASPER R-JTAG not working - diylpt+audv3+CR4XL

Micfireball

Junior Member
Aug 9, 2015
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S.E. Coast, US
Hello all, this is my first post on the forums. Thank you in advanced for the help.
Just let me know if you need anything else, I will try and upload it immediately.
And also, I don't have any logging ability (as far as I'm concerned, using direct wire, diy LPT)



  • Console Type: BB Jasper 256MB
  • Programmer Used: DIY LPT port w/ Nandpro 30 and J-Runner
  • NAND Size: 256MB
  • Dashboard version: 16756 is all I know
  • NAND details from J-Runner: J-Runner won't connect to console (diy lpt) But got two of the same NANDs compared with J-Runner.
  • J-Runner log: no logging available with diy lpt
  • Image of the CR4 XL:




  • Images of close-up soldering to motherboard:
Messy I know, but the NAND dumped successfully and the wires all hold up to tug tests :tongue:



  • Detailed Description of the Problem:
  • After dumping the NAND, creating the (JTAG, R-JTAG, Aud_Clamp) xell with JR, writing the xell with Nandpro, and using all of the different recommended dip/jumper settings, the console continues to have the same issue. When the console is plugged in, the power led comes on and the debug light comes on faintly also. After turning on the console, nothing changes. No glitching, though the debug light does shimmer slightly occasionally. I checked all of the solder points on the aud_clamp, and they are definitely on the board. I am just not sure if the way I wired it up is correct for the method I'm using (R-JTAG on BB Jasper 256 w/ diy lpt, Aud_Clamp QSB v3, CR4 XL). My current setting are: dips 1-8 off, phat/slim dip to phat, 0 Ohms on cr, 470 jumper on aud, and switching between AV and HDMI with new attempts.
  • Note: While messing around with the settings after nothing else worked, I tried switching the CR dip from phat to slim, and found that the debug was much brighter, and was only on when the console was on. It would stay on for about 6 seconds, go off for about a second or two, then go back on, but definitely not in any regular pattern. Leads me to believe that I may have followed an incorrect wiring diagram for slim instead? Though the site definitely said phat).
  • I'm definitely not knowledgeable in this area, but my personal speculation is that it is an incorrect solder point, as the debug light is on when the console is on, perhaps I wired a "trigger" to a slim point instead of phat? Anyways, I'll let the experts take over.
  • Was the console working before you started: Yes
  • Do you get a green debug light appear on the CR4 XL chip every 4-5 seconds: No, no glitching, but light on (about half intensity). Does not go off at all while power cable connected (other than on slim setting).

Again, thank you in advance for your time.
 

Nintendo

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Sep 5, 2014
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I prefer to use RGH2 when I get a Phat, but I'll try to help you, first of all, points A, B and C have way too much exposed copper, try to do all your soldering like you did 5V, as you can see, there's not even solder at B, the same applies to every wire, you need to expose a little amount of copper, seriously, time to trim and use more flux, if you clean it, it won't hurt.

Your LPT wires are oxidized and IMO too thick, remove them and clean the area with isopropyl alcohol.
I can't say anything about POST_OUT because is full of hot glue, be careful or you might rip the pad, you should have placed the hot glue before the connection, not over it.
Maybe the wire going to Q2N1 is a little bit off, I can't really see it in the pic.

It's been a good while since my last R-Jtag, so I can't really help you at all, if you can't solve it, try to flash retail, and remove 5V, if it boots, RGH2 is easier to install and to troubleshoot.

Good luck!

EDIT: J2B1.6 Needs to be resoldered, I forgot to ask if you have a multimeter, check if something is shorting.
 
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Micfireball

Junior Member
Aug 9, 2015
17
0
S.E. Coast, US
Thank you for the quick response! The guys on 7S really like to beat around the bush.... I know that the LPTs are very bad, but I don't have a solder sucker nor a wick. I was the best I could do after I screwed up the first time.. Suggestions for this? (I know, probably go buy a sucker and wick). Also, I don't honestly know what the points are on the board, and what they are called and what they are for (POST_OUT, CPU_RST, etc.) though I have searched every forum for just an explanation instead of a tut :( if you know of an informational thread, where it's pretty much just teaching the reasoning, could you please link me? Also, to use the multimeter for a short, do you mean across the wire? If not how do you mean? Also, which color cable is connected to J2B1.6 (or which part of the Aud)? The Q2N1 does look off in the picture but it is a solid connection.
Thanks again for the help, I will be adding solder to B and just electrical taping the A and C copper.

BUT, the bad LPT port wouldn't be causing the debug light to be on when the console is off, so after I fix the chip up I'm going to check again, and if that doesn't work, I'll wait the 4 hours to reflash the stock nand and try the RGH2.
 

Nintendo

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Sep 5, 2014
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Thank you for the quick response! The guys on 7S really like to beat around the bush.... I know that the LPTs are very bad, but I don't have a solder sucker nor a wick. I was the best I could do after I screwed up the first time.. Suggestions for this? (I know, probably go buy a sucker and wick). Also, I don't honestly know what the points are on the board, and what they are called and what they are for (POST_OUT, CPU_RST, etc.) though I have searched every forum for just an explanation instead of a tut :( if you know of an informational thread, where it's pretty much just teaching the reasoning, could you please link me? Also, to use the multimeter for a short, do you mean across the wire? If not how do you mean? Also, which color cable is connected to J2B1.6 (or which part of the Aud)? The Q2N1 does look off in the picture but it is a solid connection.
Thanks again for the help, I will be adding solder to B and just electrical taping the A and C copper.

BUT, the bad LPT port wouldn't be causing the debug light to be on when the console is off, so after I fix the chip up I'm going to check again, and if that doesn't work, I'll wait the 4 hours to reflash the stock nand and try the RGH2.
Well, you can buy some wick but that won't solve the problem, you just need to take your pliers and trim the exposed copper.

Here you can find some explanations about RGH/R-Jtag...

Let's see, the green Debug light flashes when your xbox reaches a certain point when you power it on. The yellow Wire, C also called Post_Out reads the "state" of the console, and it flashes the led. When the connection there is loose or you solder to the wrong point, it may do weird things.

Try to desolder the C wire from the chip and see if the green light turns on (Debug light = Green) It shouldn't, even slightly.
BTW, you don't need to write the WHOLE nand, just the 2 first MB will do, just to write and erase Xell.

Good Luck!
 
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Micfireball

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Aug 9, 2015
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S.E. Coast, US
Try to desolder the C wire from the chip and see if the green light turns on (Debug light = Green) It shouldn't, even slightly.
BTW, you don't need to write the WHOLE nand, just the 2 first MB will do, just to write and erase Xell.

Good Luck!
I decided to just RGH2. But after writing ecc, no boot at all. Before ECC, it would boot, so maybe it's a bad image?
 
Last edited:

Nintendo

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I decided to just RGH2. But after writing ecc, no boot at all. Before ECC, it would boot, so maybe it's a bad image?
Are you following the official guide? http://team-xecuter.com/forums/threads/148002-CR4-XL-PHAT-Opus-Falcon-Jasper-Install-Guide-(RGH2-)

Upload pics of the new installation, BTW what do you mean by "No boot at all"? Explain what you have done since the last time you replied, the led flashes correctly? You know R-JTAG wiring is not the same as RGH2 wiring right?
 

Micfireball

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Aug 9, 2015
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S.E. Coast, US
Yeah, sorry. I moved the post out to FT6U7. Wired E to DB1F1. Left G how it was. Removed aud_clamp. 5v, gnd are the same.
Edit: used a different program besides JR, now glitching every 5 seconds. How long will it take for video to show with AV?
Edit2: has been glitching for about 15 minutes.. :(
 
Last edited:

GeekHeat

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Jun 28, 2013
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Yeah, sorry. I moved the post out to FT6U7. Wired E to DB1F1. Left G how it was. Removed aud_clamp. 5v, gnd are the same.
Edit: used a different program besides JR, now glitching every 5 seconds. How long will it take for video to show with AV?
Edit2: has been glitching for about 15 minutes.. :(
need to see new pics of install. U need to try different combinations of dip switchs and postbit jumpers. Try each dip combination for no more than a minute. If it hasn't glitches in 15 minutes, it never will.lol.
 

Nintendo

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Yeah, sorry. I moved the post out to FT6U7. Wired E to DB1F1. Left G how it was. Removed aud_clamp. 5v, gnd are the same.
Edit: used a different program besides JR, now glitching every 5 seconds. How long will it take for video to show with AV?
Edit2: has been glitching for about 15 minutes.. :(

If it flashes every 5 seconds, lets assume POST_OUT is fine. E needs more solder (at the CR4 side lol) to grant a solid connection.
If you are using another program (AutoGG?) be sure to flash the CR4 magic ecc. Try continuity from DB1F1 to FT1U2 (right under DB1F1) with your multimeter.
 

Nintendo

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Micfireball

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Aug 9, 2015
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I tried that already but the link is broken :( I've soldered B on the chip again to get a stronger connection. I've created ECC files with AutoGG to flash, but I'm reflashing retail nand real quick to flash another ECC on there (I think my dad tried to write a .bin over the .ecc, so now it won't start). Do you know where I could get the correct ecc for my console? Thanks!

Edit: Oh yeah and I have to wait until around 6 to get a multimeter, we've lost ours D: Though I hope that it's just an issue with the .ecc!!!
 
Last edited:

Nintendo

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Sep 5, 2014
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I tried that already but the link is broken :( I've soldered B on the chip again to get a stronger connection. I've created ECC files with AutoGG to flash, but I'm reflashing retail nand real quick to flash another ECC on there (I think my dad tried to write a .bin over the .ecc, so now it won't start). Do you know where I could get the correct ecc for my console? Thanks!

Edit: Oh yeah and I have to wait until around 6 to get a multimeter, we've lost ours D: Though I hope that it's just an issue with the .ecc!!!
As I already said, if you only wrote Xell, you can write the first 2MB of the nand, not the whole nand, Xell is written at the start of the nand, I am uploading the ECC, hold on.
 
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Nintendo

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So for flashing retail with nandpro, I've been using -w16. Does that mean I can just use -w2? lol :( Thank you so much for all your help though!
Yeah, that's it. I just uploaded the Ecc for Jasper, ( https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2h6i2ukTX75X2FaWk44UmktOVU/view?usp=sharing )

Flash it like this: Nandpro lpt: +w64 JASPER_CR4.ecc
Remember to use + instead of - when writing ecc.

BTW you are welcome, I hope you manage to get it working, my first console was a Jasper aswell. Just click the Thanks button if I helped!
 
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Micfireball

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Loads of help! Just to be sure though that I do this correctly, I do:
Nandpro lpt: +w64 JASPER_CR4.ecc
But then do I also need to flash the nandxell.bin from AutoGG? If so, which order? Before or after? Thank you so much! You have helped more than anyone else on 3 forums combined! lol.
 

Micfireball

Junior Member
Aug 9, 2015
17
0
S.E. Coast, US
Yeah, that's it. I just uploaded the Ecc for Jasper, ( https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2h6i2ukTX75X2FaWk44UmktOVU/view?usp=sharing )

Flash it like this: Nandpro lpt: +w64 JASPER_CR4.ecc
Remember to use + instead of - when writing ecc.

BTW you are welcome, I hope you manage to get it working, my first console was a Jasper aswell. Just click the Thanks button if I helped!
And also, for that, would it be:
Nandpro lpt: +/-w64 nandxell.bin ?
I've been using -w64 for the .bin, hopefully that's right?

But I usually have not been flashing both, I don't think I have to do I? I guess I'm more lost than I even knew.. lol
 
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Nintendo

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Loads of help! Just to be sure though that I do this correctly, I do:
Nandpro lpt: +w64 JASPER_CR4.ecc
But then do I also need to flash the nandxell.bin from AutoGG? If so, which order? Before or after? Thank you so much! You have helped more than anyone else on 3 forums combined! lol.
You just need to flash the ecc I gave you, the ecc contains Xell. Both, nandxell.bin and the Ecc I gave you contain Xell, it's just a different format, but the one I gave you it's comaptible with CR4XL .
 
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Micfireball

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Aug 9, 2015
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:( so after flashing that ecc, the debug light came on as soon as the power was plugged in. That's a bad thing, right? After turning it on, the light went off, and then started flashing every 4 seconds. No xell though :( Do I need to check the Post_out again? Could it be that xell will only come up with a certain dip setting? or would changing the dip combinations only speed up the glitch time?