R2C10 pads gone, what to do?

[crystalmage]

Hi all, like it says I've burnt off the R2C10 pads on a slim corona v3, is there any way to
fix it or am I f****d? And yes I know I'm an idiot , any help is very much appreciated.

 

[rghpro]

Is it just the pad only gone, or did you mess up the trace too?

And, No, your not an idiot, **it happens sometimes, its okay.

How about a Photo of the damage?

 

[crystalmage]

Sure, I think the trace looks OK, here's the photo it's the best I can do.

 

[rghpro]

Was there a resistor there before?

If not, were you trying to create a bridge an burned it?

 

[crystalmage]

No resistor, was trying to bridge it.

 

[rghpro]

You will need to create a bridge from the trace now, it can be tricky.

Scrape the trace and expose it, then apply some flux, and try to apply solder to it, once done, you can run a wire from there to the main point which is big and easy, unlike the trace, then you can continue with the regular procedure.

The damage done should not effect the console itself, but only your ability to read the nand using normal measures.

EDIT:

Thinking again, if you managed to burn that pad, you may cause more damage trying to make the connection via the trace as its much more smaller and very easy to damage.

I would seek some professional help if I were you.

 

[crystalmage]

Yeah mistakenly had the iron on a high temperature - my own fault. By 'main point' where do you mean?

 

[rghpro]

Well, you will need to make a connection from the broken area, I assume the trace, hopefully if its there, to the area


Basically, like in the picture...

 

[crystalmage]

The two pads (Yellow) are gone wouldn't the blue line be where the wire would go?

 

[Martin C]

Have you done trace repairs before? The quality of your work says otherwise.

Might be an idea to find someone to do this for you, whilst it's still salvageable.

 

[rghpro]

Yes, do the blue line you made in the image, but use the top of my red line and the bottom of your blue line as the points.

For an experienced solderer (who wouldn't be in this mess in the first place), I'd recommend what you drew, but for you, the least amount of tiny soldering is best, so go from the bottom of the blue line to the top of the red line and you should be good.

For the trace, you should scrape it a little to expose the trace, clean it with 70% alcohol, make sure its dry, add flux to the exposed trace, make sure you have a clean soldering iron tip, add some solder to it, then while adding the solder to the nearby area of the trace, apply some heat and wait for the solder to run on the trace, it should take no more than 1 second, maybe 2, but any longer will result in burned trace and more difficult repair later.

You should see the trace change from a dark color to solder silver color, once that's done, your bank, saved. From there you can tin a short wire and set it on top of the soldered trace, apply heat for about 2 seconds and release the iron without moving the wire and you should be set, I'd tape it down, in case you pull it up by accident. Simply solder the other end to the big points.

 

[Martin C]

Your efforts are admirable, rghpro - however soldering is a practical skill taught and learned through experience.

It would be like someone teaching you a dance routine by text.

I would deter from encouraging anyone to tackle this if they have little to no experience in doing so.

OP - ask yourself if you can afford to replace the console.

If I was doing this, I'd expose the trace either side of the (missing) pads and use a single strand wire to bridge them.

 

[rghpro]

Have you done trace repairs before? The quality of your work says otherwise.

Might be an idea to find someone to do this for you, whilst it's still salvageable.

I agree, if he had, he wouldn't be in this mess in the first place, lol.

For the record, it probably was not the high temp iron which burned your pad, well actually, it in fact was, but it likely didn't burn because the temp was high, it was probably because you were touching it too much, you were probably trying and trying repeatedly, which resulted in the burn. I use my soldering iron at 400 degrees Celsius most of the time, which is much more than is needed, I'm sure Martin will reply and agree, then advise against, however, I do know better than to be touching that hot iron on things for too long, I can do any RGH, small points and large with a 400 degree celsius iron and not burn a thing since I'm experienced, the way I see it ism if its not hot enough, it will be messed around with more, touched more times to achieve the goal, thus more risk of damage, if I use a high heat, I will only need to touch it once to get the same result, IMO, its safer, if you know what your doing.

 

[Martin C]

Yep - I operate my iron at 400 most of the time too with the only exception when tinning wires (350).

 

[rghpro]

Martin is right, by the looks of the damage done, your console should still function normally, as I said earlier as well as Martin, I would get someone to fix it for you, or get some more experience before putting a soldering iron to it anymore.

Martin is double right, I can do trace repairs, but simply telling you how is not enough for you to do it correctly, even though I made is very simple to read and follow its very easy to get carried away and mess something up due to inpatients and/or frustration, which I'm sure you have plenty of at this point.

If I were you, I would simply clean up the motherboard, carefully and put it back together and see if it still works, it should work, but we cant say for sure.

 

[rghpro]

Yep - I operate my iron at 400 most of the time too with the only exception when tinning wires (350).

Nice, I guess great minds think alike, lol...

I tin my wires at 400, makes no difference to me, they get tinned either way. I would like to clarify, using soldering irons at 400 and up should only be done by the experienced.

 

[Martin C]

Nice, I guess great minds think alike, lol...

I tin my wires at 400, makes no difference to me, they get tinned either way. I would like to clarify, using soldering irons at 400 and up should only be done by the experienced.

The only reason I drop the temp for tinning is to reduce insulation melting/shrinkage.

 

[ezzda1]

I used to adjust temps for tinning but if I know im going to be tinning a few wires I use a small porcelain crucible on the cooker hob.
fill it with all the scrap solder out of my solder sucker and any other tiny bits lying round.
then you just dip the wire in fux and dip it in the molten solder.

 

[rghpro]

True, 100% correct, I compensate for that though, I strip less insulation than I need, for example, for a STBY_CLK, I will strip almost nothing, less than a millimeter (sometimes I tin with no stripping) , I tin it and I get 1mm of exposed wire, it simply melts away, but very little, which is why I cut less and leave more than I want, it creates a nice looking connection too. It does shrink, but I'd rather save time than wait for the iron to cool then reheat when I need it, but I'm a very busy person though, except today, its slow, yey...

If I get too much exposed wire, I simply cut it shorter after tinning, I like to do that actually, for small points anyway.

 

[crystalmage]

It still works thankfully, I won't attempt the trace repair lol. Slightly off topic but could you reccommend a good brand of flux paste and/or flux cored solder that is good to use so I can practice on old stuff?, (uk links) thanks.