Red light instead of blue

[jav_rod]

Why does my xbox boot-up some times and sometimes not? when it works
I get the blue "X" and everything works fine, but when I get the Rex "X" on the mod chip, it just won't boot-up. Any ideas?
Thanks in advance

 

[HoBoZ]

sounds like a shotty D0 solder. check and maybe resolder the D0.

 

[skeetfreak32]

my thoughts exactly, i just went through a tedious installation and I cant express how important it is to have that d0 soldered just right. All the points must be fuly connected. Hope this helps 8)

Skeet :twisted:

 

[rh387]

sounds more like a broken d0 trace. if it boots fine with the chip enabled, the d0 is fine. if it doesnt boot with the chip disabled, then its usually a broken trace.

 

[jav_rod]

Thanks for your help!
I admit that I did a terrible soldering job. I will double check my soldering.
rh387 suspects of a d0 broken trace, isn't this the same as a bad solder?
as I said before, the xbox boots-up sometimes and sometimes not without
changing any setting at all.

Thanks again

 

[Menkey]

Thanks for your help!
I admit that I did a terrible soldering job. I will double check my soldering.
rh387 suspects of a d0 broken trace, isn't this the same as a bad solder?
as I said before, the xbox boots-up sometimes and sometimes not without
changing any setting at all.

Thanks again

traces are more like wires on the board. what rh was saying is that when you soldered the d0 wire to the d0 point on the d0 trace, you might have accedentally damaged the d0 trace. But I don't think the xbox would boot even with the chip on if the trace was damaged. I am not fully sure. Also, check over your eject/reset stuff. Make sure everything is plugged in correctly. You may have a prob with power button itself (just sending out suggestions).

 

[psilocybe]

sounds like you're forgetting that some people jus thold the power button too long when they power up the xbox, remember VERY quick press to turn on

 

[freakk123]

i you fcuk the d0 trace, it won't boot. Trust me, I would no :wink:

 

[drhunter]

I ripped the bottom d0 trace so I soldered to one of the alts on the top. My X3 boots just fine in enabled and in recovery mode. I only get a FRAG (turns on and off 3 times b4 FRAGing) if I try to disable it. Even then I have to hold the power button while it powers up each time otherwise my X3 will enable itself and start normally.

 

[psilocybe]

i you fcuk the d0 trace, it won't boot. Trust me, I would no :wink:

no, that would cause the infamous reboot frag, not what he is saying which is not boot up

 

[umpa]

Sounds to me like he's pressing the power button on to long!

 

[tasemach]

yeah he is defintely pushing the button too long he is talking about the x on the switch being red and it not booting up correctly probably because he didn't relock a larger hard drive or something or he renamed his new dashboard to xboxdash.xbe instead of using the boot up sequence like avalaunch.xbe or evoxdash.xbe and when its blue of course it works because its using a non retail bios...

 

[MrA]

loud noise after flashing hitachi

i just flashed my hitachi drive with ixtreme 1.51 and when i place a burned disc in the drive and leave it idle on the dashboard, i hear a loud knocking sound, yet i dont with an a legit game and i dont with the burned game on my other xbox?

 

[MrA]

Re: loud noise after flashing hitachi

when i press play game the sound stops too.

 

[ReMix]

Re: loud noise after flashing hitachi

your drive is just struggling to read your game

i would suggest refining your burning technique or doing the POT tweak

 

[MrA]

Re: loud noise after flashing hitachi

none of my other modded xbox's have a problem like that? and its only with the game Blur.. so w.e... im burning on a macbook if that means anything, and im using x360iso.. i guess the hitachi drive is just the worst of them all.. what is POT tweak, didnt show anything in search?

 

[Idiot_Box]

Re: loud noise after flashing hitachi

What type of CD media did you burn the game on? I notice that thinner/lighter CD's tend to float higher (i.e. they float on a cusion of air when spinning) and edges can hit the top cover of the drive causing a knocking sound. Genuine CD's tend to be quite thick and a little heavier so they don't suffer from this problem. - Thats just my thoughts.

I think the pot tweak joesinger is referning to is to adjust the laser voltage - thats the only one I know of anyway.

Since its only doing it when its idle - I would suspect the laser is parked out of they way or out to the edge of CD during this idle period. I would check the laser mechansium and guide rails - make sure it is seated properly - clean and lubricated.

There is a little round plastic bit that seats into the centre of the CD built into the drive cover - I would check that also - its covered over buy the label on the outside of the cover and you can cut a circle through the label around its perimeter if you need to remove it.

 

[Xion]

Re: loud noise after flashing hitachi

Pull apart the drive case and you will usually find that the magnet has come unglued from the top of the drive and has stuck itself to the metal lid. I have seen a couple of them do this.

Simply super glue it back to the top of the drive and put it back together and you should be good to go.

Here is an example of what I am talking about.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m5NULtyTH4A