Repairing plastic eject power mesh for 360 Slim

pulse40

Junior Member
So I bought 2 broken slims off of ebay the other day from some retard in Alabama who likes to open his consoles with sharp flathead screwdrivers from the front faceplate and I noticed that one of the eject leads on the plastic flim was severed on both of the faceplates.

In a fit of genius I pulled out my square-blade X-acto hobby knife and lightly scraped (Not cut or carved) the top layer of plastic from the severed lead. this exposes a point to do the magic.

I then pulled out a pen of this stuff I got from Radio Shack for around 14-15 bucks call Circuit Writer ( A silver-based conductive ink dispensor for drawing traces) and like using a white-out pen I drew on a new trace from one exposed trace to the other.

Wait overnight and not 10 minutes for it to fully set and dry before testing, when testing is successful then re-insulate the trace with electrical tape or an enamel-based (non-metal) fingernail polish. When applying the polish only do one light coat at a time and don't re-apply the next coat until dry, I do 3-4 coats. If you apply the enamel polish before it dries it will ruin the work you did with the trace pen and the connection will be broken.

Works like new again!
 

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frayed

DINDU NUFFIN
VIP Member
Dec 22, 2010
3,245
118
A galaxy far far away....
don't pay him any mind he's just a creepy old man in a 1 bedroom apartment that has a complex problem;) by the way theres a tut on here for this as well
this has to be the first time in over 1000 posts you typed a message and almost spelled all your words right

I didn't see anything on it so I thought I'd put my two cents in on the matter since $7 additional overhead on a system is messed up and thanks Frayed, ya cooty old bastard..... xD
anytime!
 
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