Hi! So, here's the deal. I've flashed my two previous 360's four or five times, and never had any problems, so I'm not a complete noob when it comes to flashing. Now, when my second used 360 RROD'ed a few months after doing the X-Clamp fix, I decided to buy a "new" used one, and flash it. I don't use a Connectivity kit or anything like that, and never had any problems with just using the 360's PSU and plugging the drive straight to my computer's SATA port. But this time, I plugged the 360's drive's power cord out (even though I didn't need to), and managed to put it back the wrong way around: thus resulting in a bad smell and a fried LiteOn drive.
Now, I didn't manage to get the dummy.bin from the drive, since I fried it from the get-go. But, for some reason, my computer and Jungleflasher still recognize the drive, even though I thought it was completely fried! So, I thought that I could dump the original firmware from the new LiteOn, take the drive from either of my old 360's (the other one has a Hitachi, the other one a Samsung), revert the old drive back to stock (they're both flashed with iXtreme LT), spoof the old drive with the new one's key, and then flash the spoofed, old drive. This, of course, wasn't as simple as I thought. First of all, I realized that the new drive is a LiteOn DG-16D2S, with 74850C firmware (apparently now with 02510C firmware, since I updated my dashboard to the latest before frying the drive). So, apparently, I would need a probe to be able to dump the key from it. Secondly, I read somewhere that spoofing is no longer supported. Is this true?
So, to make a long story short: I fried my LiteOn drive, have to replace it with an old, flashed Hitachi or Samsung, what do I do? No dummy.bin for the LiteOn, but Jungleflasher still recognizes it.
Is the process I described earlier right:
1. Probe the LiteOn and dump the key
2. Revert my Hitachi or Samsung back to stock
3. Spoof the Hitachi or Samsung with the LiteOn's key
4. Flash the spoofed Hitachi or Samsung with LT+ 3.0
Also, I've tried searching a lot, but still haven't found a definite answer if I absolutely need a connectivity kit or something else besides the probe. If I buy this for example, do I need anything else? Also, I don't have a serial port in my computer. I thought of buying this homemade kit at first, since he ships everywhere for free (I live in Finland), but it seems to require a serial port.
Sorry for the long post, hope you guys have the patience to read it
Now, I didn't manage to get the dummy.bin from the drive, since I fried it from the get-go. But, for some reason, my computer and Jungleflasher still recognize the drive, even though I thought it was completely fried! So, I thought that I could dump the original firmware from the new LiteOn, take the drive from either of my old 360's (the other one has a Hitachi, the other one a Samsung), revert the old drive back to stock (they're both flashed with iXtreme LT), spoof the old drive with the new one's key, and then flash the spoofed, old drive. This, of course, wasn't as simple as I thought. First of all, I realized that the new drive is a LiteOn DG-16D2S, with 74850C firmware (apparently now with 02510C firmware, since I updated my dashboard to the latest before frying the drive). So, apparently, I would need a probe to be able to dump the key from it. Secondly, I read somewhere that spoofing is no longer supported. Is this true?
So, to make a long story short: I fried my LiteOn drive, have to replace it with an old, flashed Hitachi or Samsung, what do I do? No dummy.bin for the LiteOn, but Jungleflasher still recognizes it.
Is the process I described earlier right:
1. Probe the LiteOn and dump the key
2. Revert my Hitachi or Samsung back to stock
3. Spoof the Hitachi or Samsung with the LiteOn's key
4. Flash the spoofed Hitachi or Samsung with LT+ 3.0
Also, I've tried searching a lot, but still haven't found a definite answer if I absolutely need a connectivity kit or something else besides the probe. If I buy this for example, do I need anything else? Also, I don't have a serial port in my computer. I thought of buying this homemade kit at first, since he ships everywhere for free (I live in Finland), but it seems to require a serial port.
Sorry for the long post, hope you guys have the patience to read it
