LITEON 74850 Replacing a Lite-On 74850

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ljay880

Junior Member
Jan 7, 2007
19
0
Hello everyone!! I began getting dirty disk errors and cant even play my games anymore, or install them for that matter. I am on the latest Dashboard (136xx) and this is a stock drive that has never been flashed. I have flashed various CFW on other drives before, but this time I want to just replace the drive with original firmware. I know that instructions vary, depending if you are past 131xx dashboard. The malfunctioning drive is going to be the 0250 firmware, as the xbox's dash is up to date, but the replacement drive is going to be 74850's original FW. In the OFW folder (IXtreme FW Pack), there is pre 131xx and post. I thought I could extract my key and just write the OFW to the drive with it and all would be good. I am a bit confused which OFW to use, or the general process here. By general process, I just mean the order of operations, so to speak, not how to flash a drive. Also, can I still use my Probe V1 to extract the key, even though the light-on is now the 0250 FW? I read the current JF tut, and it seems like I can use my V1 probe to grab the key, then just write stock FW ... I just wanted confirmation from the community before I brick a new drive :) Thanks in advance to anyone that can help!
 
BL4K3Y

BL4K3Y

VIP Member
Jul 7, 2010
13,721
118
Colne, Lancashire (UK)
Get yourself a Probe 3, use PhatKey to dump dummy.bin from the drive and flash a 0251 stock firmware to the new drive (run Lite-On erase first to get Vendor mode). However, why not try and replace the laser in the faulty drive first?
 
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ljay880

Junior Member
Jan 7, 2007
19
0
Can it be done with a V1 Probe? Reason I ask is that I dont want to buy more flashing equipment, if I dont have to, because I really wouldn't have much use for it in the future. As for replacing the laser ... I just thought it would be easier to replace the drive. I havnt really explored the option, but have seen various threads where people have said its tuff to do and botched it. I could have been totally landing on user error posts though :)
 
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ljay880

Junior Member
Jan 7, 2007
19
0
Hey dgenx, sorry about the confusion with your link. When I hit reply, there was only blakey8's response. Thank you for that link, looks very easy to do and will allow me to grab the key with only the purchase of a $1 switch! :) Also, thanks dgenx for clearing up which OFW to use. After converting my V1 probe, I can basically follow the JF Tuts guide on using a Probe 3, because that is essentially what I will have right? Blakey8, how hard is it to replace a laser, and what kind of cost can I expect by going that route? Thank you for pointing out the Phatkey routine and informing me that there is a conversion cable out there if I dont feel like adding the switch myself. I am just familiar with extracting keys/flashing and can get a good quality replacement drive for $27 with free shipping, so it wasn't breaking the bank per say to go that route.
 
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ljay880

Junior Member
Jan 7, 2007
19
0
Hello again! So I've rigged my probe V1 with a switch, like the link that was posted above. I have had mixed results with it. The first time I tried, it failed. The second time, success! I now have a verified key for my drive and that is awesome. Being the worry wort that I am, I wanted to dump it a second time, just to make sure that I was getting the right key. Well, out of 15 attempts, all failed. Now my hands are a bit shaky, and that point is oh so small ... as well as filled in so there is not even the small hole to sink the probe into. I followed the steps in this post (at the bottom):
http://team-xecuter.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61821&highlight=pmt&page=9

I also looked at the JF tut and it asks with or without a capacitor ... well being that I modified the V1 probe with a simple switch, and that I don't know much about the probe 3, I'm not sure which one of these is the right way to do it, or if either of them are at all. Can anyone tell me if one or the other of the JF tut paths are right for my modified probe? Also, the steps I followed say to leave the probe on, instead of turning it off, before probing the point. Could that be the reason for my sketchy success ratio? Also, if it verified once, I shouldn't have to worry that it could be wrong, is that correct? Also, because I'm putting a new drive in, I don't have to erase the original so my key will be still on it. If I flash the new drive, and it is the wrong key, will it record any error messages on my xbox that will get me banned when I connect to live? Sorry for all the questions, and thank you to anyone that can answer them!

EDIT:
One more thing ... I didn't want to flash my drive that I pulled the key from, so by just extracting the key and then turning off the drive, will it be in any kind of vendor mode or either oddball state? Can I put that drive back in the Xbox the way it is without throwing any error codes?
 
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