RGH Resistor replacement help.

[JohnsonMighty]

this guy sent me his xbox to repair his board after he attempted to fix it himself, well long story short, it was a complete mess...

So I repaired it, sent it back, he said it was working for about 3 hours then he had to leave and when he came back it wasn't booting anymore. So I told him to send it back and I would look at it again.

So after checking all wires to make sure they were still stuck and everything I've come to the conclusion it's either a popped(replaced) resistor or the coolrunner is just having some issues...

I replaced the little black resistor that is under "A" point with a 10 K-Ohm, as that is what I was told by a friend that it was. So if that's the problem tell me now so this headache can go away. And the reasoning behind me saying possible CR error is because the debug LED is very dim and flashes very fast every 5 seconds. This is around my 40th install and I've never had a problem related to the CR before like this.

I know the pictures aren't that great, and you can't really see the points, but it just gives a general idea of what I had to do.

DO remember it was booting just fine before.

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Thanks for any help in advance

 

[Martin C]

I'm assuming you don't charge for repairs.

Send the board to someone to do a proper repair. The CPU_PLL_BYPASS wire is extremely sensitive, so you need to repair the trace properly.

 

[JohnsonMighty]

I'm assuming you don't charge for repairs.

Send the board to someone to do a proper repair. The CPU_PLL_BYPASS wire is extremely sensitive, so you need to repair the trace properly.

I have all the equipment for the proper repair...
And charged a small fee the first time just because it took alot of time, but this attempt was free.

Let me find some pictures of the motherboard and I will use my awesome M$ Paint skills to show what I did.

 

[Oggy]

Thats *if* you haven't already shot the input protection diode.

 

[JohnsonMighty]

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Is this going to be a thread with no help and you guys trying to make me look stupid, or are you going to give me actual advice and be helpful?

Because the last time I checked, this was TX support forums...

 

[Martin C]

If you damage or bring interference into the CPU_PLL_BYPASS, it stops the signal from coming through to the Coolrunner correctly.

You need to get this repaired properly. By that I mean replace the SMD resistor and restore the trace.

---------- Post added at 08:29 ---------- Previous post was at 08:28 ----------

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Is this going to be a thread with no help and you guys trying to make me look stupid, or are you going to give me actually advice and be helpful?

Because the last time I checked, this was TX support forums...

You're right - it IS T-X support forums.

NOT PCB support.

NOT Soldering support.

NOT Electronics support.

NOT Trace repair support.

Your Coolrunner is fine.

So by the letter of the law, support ends here.

Have any other insightful comments?

FTR, 'get it repaired properly' is more than likely the best advice anyone can give you.

 

[JohnsonMighty]

If you damage or bring interference into the CPU_PLL_BYPASS, it stops the signal from coming through to the Coolrunner correctly.

You need to get this repaired properly. By that I mean replace the SMD resistor and restore the trace.

There is no trace, the original point and the front end of the SMD resistor is gone. I couldn't get solder to stick to it if I was magic, that's how bad it was... But I mean I did get it to boot before and was working, so this is a mainly "What the hell happened and went wrong" thread.


You were alot nicer before you got admin....

 

[Martin C]

The fact you got this to boot looking like *that* is a miracle. It should never have gone back like it. At best, it was a ghetto fix.

As stated, all lines to CPU are highly sensitive to noise. So by soldering an in-line resistor like that, with that extra wire just compounds the problem. The reason why your CR isn't blinking correctly is for that reason.

Yes, there is no trace which is why you need to get someone to repair it properly. Anyone soldering to the required level can repair the via and restore the trace.

If you can't manage it, restore back to stock.

 

[Lizardpcs]

Martin isn't being rude he is being straight up.

It appears this repair is out of your skill level and to be fair you told the guy who did this that it is the worst soldering job you have ever seen from the eyes of someone with the required skills your repair job is just as bad.

The pad for the resistor is still there so a new smd resistor can be installed back in its place and then run your wire to the top repair point and your coolrunner wire from where you replaced the resisor.

Reading your previous posts you have had issues lifting pads and looking at the soldering on this job not being rude it may be better to refund the guy for the repair and send it to someone who can repair it succesfully before it gets worse.
Don't take this as a your hopeless thread but rather as a nice try but its a bit beyound you.

 

[Martin C]

Cheers - You can't candy-coat this stuff. Either solder it to the level required or get someone to do it for you.

 

[JohnsonMighty]

I will admit that this was apparently a bad idea, a friend of mine that has been doing this stuff for years gave me the idea for it, he is also very good friends with the guy(s) at VGC.

The problem is those two pads are completely gone, I just spent the last hour or so probing and scraping what would make it possible. BUT I have an idea, I doubt you guys would really agree with it since you've already made it apparent I screwed up. Just going to grab a SMD resistor off one of the dead boards I have and put it on the one pad left and add a insulated wire from the alt point under the CPU to the start of the resistor.

And I have sent him a link to this thread so he can read over it all and decide what he wants to do...

And I think I've only ever screwed up one point on any of my installs? Only pad I ever lifted was a STBY_CLK before I knew about the ALT point and when I had a cheap iron...

 

[Lizardpcs]

Without having it in front of me this is what i suggest.

 

[JohnsonMighty]

Without having it in front of me this is what i suggest.


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That's what I plan on doing I thought that's how I described it anyways.... lol

Oh, and that full pad is there luckily. Just one of them though.

going to go up to a hardware/electronics store in the morning and see if I can find good insulated wire so I don't have to order some and wait.

 

[Martin C]

What I would do:

1. Solder an SMD 10k resistor to the one side of the pad for CPU_PLL_BYPASS that's still there (for reference, that side is just tied to GND).

2. Solder a trace wire from the remains of the via to the other side of the SMD 10k resistor.

This would complete the repair.

To get it to glitch, solder the CPU_PLL_BYPASS to the topside point. Lay the cable along the length of the heatsinks as its position can be the difference of it glitching or not.