alexander_1333
VIP Member
RGH RGH 2.0 Falcon Won't Boot
- Thread starter iTzCalvinFTW
- Start date
why are you putting your motherboard on fabric which almost certainly will cause static electricity and potentially cause damage to small components? get it off there if i were you and i certainly wouldnt power it up on there either, your asking for trouble.
Yeah here it is
http://imgur.com/sT40R5d
http://imgur.com/BPDVguq
http://imgur.com/8lwUDTA
Thanks btw
I am pretty sure this is not fabric but thanks for the tip anyway
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Thanks going to try that tomorrow
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Yeah thanks '!
I Did that a couple of times and with help but nothing everything stays the same... Here's a video it should be live soon
http://youtu.be/bPHssUP4U_A
Hi I really need your help. In my last video on this post I showed you my Xbox was doing really weird. Now it doesn't do anything at all... Please help me
Beaver_Buffcoat
BANNED
Check that post out & cpu_rst points are correct. Re-solder if necessary.
Re-solder C15, & make sure that it isn't bridged with the pad above it.
Re-solder the Coolrunner ground wire.
Check the RF module for a clean connection.
Try a wired controller.
Hi, I tried to rgh2 a falcon but know matter what I did it wouldn't boot at all not even once. Even with a cr3 lite with the cleaners enabled it wouldn't play, so its flashed back to stock and waiting for the cr4 to be released!!
But my suggestion would be to flash it back to stock and switch coolrunner to prg just to make sure it still boots then decide if you want to keep going or wait until th cr4 is out then you shouldn't have any problems (hopefully)
Good luck
But my suggestion would be to flash it back to stock and switch coolrunner to prg just to make sure it still boots then decide if you want to keep going or wait until th cr4 is out then you shouldn't have any problems (hopefully)
Good luck
jsinger47
Troll Eating Dogs
Why would he need to do anything with C15?
Check that post out & cpu_rst points are correct. Re-solder if necessary.
Re-solder C15, & make sure that it isn't bridged with the pad above it.
Re-solder the Coolrunner ground wire.
Check the RF module for a clean connection.
Try a wired controller.
Your suggestions are far too vague and show very little understanding of what is actually going on.
Really? Re-solder the ground wire?
You're just posting because you like writing words.
jsinger47
Troll Eating Dogs
All i do here is prevent idiots from talking on the forum.Thanks for all the help, Joseph. Really-- what would we do without you?
Sarcasm aside, underneath your abrasive exterior is a hurt little boy who is looking for mommy's love and daddy's validation. LOL. Perhaps if you visited a shrink you might make some friends IRL.
Good luck with your Asperger's Syndrome (i.e. weak excuse for being a ****).
Love,
Beaver
P.S. You still haven't updated the front page infographic for the CR4? What is your job exactly? Just hang around TX forum all day looking for someone to sh*t on? "Soon to be legend" LMFAO
jsinger47
Troll Eating Dogs
You almost surely have damaged the STBY_CLK point. Get out your multimeter. Check continuity, make sure the resistor there is still 33Ohms.
Hi there, if I leave 1-2-3 open it will not Glitch.. What do you mean with coil the slack over the south bridge? What's the effect of that?Make sure you wrap your slim rst wire around the front of the heatsinks and coil the slack over the the south bridge and connect to cool runner. Program cool runner with rgh2 file B, remove C8 on the cool runner, set switch to slim, and leave 1-2-3 open. She'll be booting within 30 seconds in no time
pfff.. still not glitchin'!:facepalm:
Have you tried flashing it back to stock to see if it still boots? Or looked into the resistor like jsinger suggested? You may need to start making filters or buy one and try that, tho personally I'd wait till the cr4 comes out.
Good luck.
Ian
Good luck.
Ian