[RGH] Couldn't get NAND anymore

yuanchia

Junior Member
May 17, 2012
17
0
College Park, MD
This is a long story for about 10 days, some failed but some successful, and I do apologize my poor English writing.

I have a Jasper 16M, CB 6750 console. As well as Nand-X 3.0 with Coolrunner Ver B.

At first, I have NandX wired and try to connect to board and get the nand. But I've keep getting "Looking for usb interface device, Can not continue"
while I used nandpro 3.0. But I still can use it to write Japser setting into coolrunner. And even I didn't connect to Xbox, it still said the same thing.
During this period I've tried lots of soldering and desoldering for all the points. Finally, I ordered a USB update cable and then downgraded it to 2.0.
Using nandpro 2.0e, it works!! I can download the original Nand and there's bad block at 250, but four nands are the same.

Then I just followed the guide to create ecc file and wrote to XBOX. But it then became my nightmare. I wired everything with coolrunner, and turned on
machine, screen is black. There are two setting I've tried, one without dvdrom, which the power light kept blinking, and CR only blink once.
Second is with dvdrom, the power light is always on, and CR blink every five sec, but just four or five times.

So I soldered and desoldered them again, and even wrote nand, ecc to it again, everything is the same. At last, I was thinking to write my original nand back
to it to check if it's still working. But after I reconnect nand-X to it, I just got "Looking for usb interface device,
Could not detect a flash controller! Can not continue".

I've do lots of search, and some people said it's the soldering question. So I tried to redo them again, but it didn't help, and I even use direct wired to J2B1.

One thing I have to mentioned, one thing could be a problem is that, the last time I redo soldering, I wrong connect NAND-X to J2B1 7→5,8→6.
Is that causing the problem that I can't connect and read NAND?

Some post said " Could not detect a flash controller" is because Nand corrupt. I don't know if I broke it by wrong soldered it to nand-X.

I've checked bridge or continuity problem, but nothing found.

Now I'm totally giving it up after 10 days, is there anyone can help? Now it can't go back to original nand, nor the RGH. Otherwise,
any suggestion for sending it out to somewhere for repair? Thank you for your patience.
 

WNYConsoles

Staff member
Troll Eating Dogs
Firstly, thank you for the pictures, a lot of newer members do not read the rules and post pictures.

Secondly, I believe the NANDX has measures in place to protect itself from shorts and what not for reading the NAND when the cables are soldered to the wrong places, however this isn't the case for programming the CR with NANDX while the XBOX is powering the CR.

Thirdly, you are going to need nandpro 3 for working with RGH so make sure your NANDX is on that before proceeding.

The first step I would take is to remove all wiring and attempt to flash the stock nand back to make sure everything works, if it does then create your ecc and flash it, if it flashes correctly then reinstall the CoolRunner wiring.

Additionally, solder the CAP point on the CoolRunner!
 

yuanchia

Junior Member
May 17, 2012
17
0
College Park, MD
Thanks for advice, but I do have few questions.

I did try to flash NAND-X to 2.0, and use nandpro 2, but I got "Looking for usb interface device, Could not detect a flash controller! Can not continue".
If I flash it to 3.0 and used nandpro 3.0, and I got "Looking for usb interface device, Can not continue"

I'm just wondering any possibility could stop me read the nand?

One more question is about the CAP. I did read lots of people talking about C15 on CR rev B for phat, do you mean I have to use solder to cover it (over the yellow part in the center)?

Thanks.
 
L

LoneWolf913

Thanks for advice, but I do have few questions.

I did try to flash NAND-X to 2.0, and use nandpro 2, but I got "Looking for usb interface device, Could not detect a flash controller! Can not continue".
If I flash it to 3.0 and used nandpro 3.0, and I got "Looking for usb interface device, Can not continue"

I'm just wondering any possibility could stop me read the nand?

One more question is about the CAP. I did read lots of people talking about C15 on CR rev B for phat, do you mean I have to use solder to cover it (over the yellow part in the center)?

Thanks.
WNY is talking about the cap jumper towards the A-F pads, not C15. C15 is for RGH2 consoles, which you don't have to worry about. Does the console turn on right now if you hit the power button? If so your nand is fine and it's either going to be your nand-x, your soldering, or your SPI port on the southbridge. First two are easy to fix, third one not so much.. Remove the CR as WNY suggested, re-connect your nand-x to the console, try reading the nand again. If you still can't read it, post pics of your redone soldering and I'll take a look at it. Also I'm about 45 minutes from College Park so if you decide you need someone to look at it for you, keep me in mind.

Edit: Also, your third picture, when was that taken? Looks like you have the CR power hooked up to one of the nand points, which probably didn't do anything good for your console..I have to go see what that point is but I'm guessing the CR tried to draw power out of it and may have damaged the southbridge.
 
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yuanchia

Junior Member
May 17, 2012
17
0
College Park, MD
So CAP means using capacitor to connect A-F!!! Thanks.

I just tried to remove all of the solder points except J1D2 QSB and two points directly connected to NAND-X on J2B1.

After I plugged the power and connected NAND-X to computer, I can see it in hardware manager, however, nandpro 3 told me "Looking for usb interface device, Can not continue". Flash to 2.0, nandpro 2.0e told me "Looking for usb interface device, Could not detect a flash controller! Can not continue".

Checked those points, J1D2 got 0.03V, 3.23V, 0.03V, 0V (40ohms) no bridge between them.

J2B1 got 3.23V, 0V(2.8 kohms) (here I found a issue? point 8, which is ground, has continuity with 5, 7, 9, 11 when no power plug, don't know is that normal?)

Still no clue of it. Just try plug dvdrom, fan and turned it on, the light on front panel kept on, fan turned, but black screen. 10 min after still the same.

I think the first step might be get the control of nand, but don't know why couldn't connect to nand.

For the third pic, which was taken when it seemed successful wrote ecc to xbox, but then I found it didn't boot on xell. Therefore I have no chance to get my cdkey so far. And, you are right, I made a mistake to connect the 7 (it is supposed to connect to 5), which I mentioned in the original post, and I don't know was that the main problem coming from. I hope the southbridge is still alive!! Is there any way to check it out?

I have a scheduled trip during weekend, so I will try the suggestion you post after this. Good to know that you are just 45 min away, probably I can bring it to you to take a look and figure out what's problem of my bad handling. Thanks.

WNY is talking about the cap jumper towards the A-F pads, not C15. C15 is for RGH2 consoles, which you don't have to worry about. Does the console turn on right now if you hit the power button? If so your nand is fine and it's either going to be your nand-x, your soldering, or your SPI port on the southbridge. First two are easy to fix, third one not so much.. Remove the CR as WNY suggested, re-connect your nand-x to the console, try reading the nand again. If you still can't read it, post pics of your redone soldering and I'll take a look at it. Also I'm about 45 minutes from College Park so if you decide you need someone to look at it for you, keep me in mind.

Edit: Also, your third picture, when was that taken? Looks like you have the CR power hooked up to one of the nand points, which probably didn't do anything good for your console..I have to go see what that point is but I'm guessing the CR tried to draw power out of it and may have damaged the southbridge.
 
L

LoneWolf913

This cap point marked in red. Sorry, my explanation was not clear: http://www.team-xecuter.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=7154&d=1331156828

What is currently written to the nand, Xell? I assume that's why you never get a red-ring error with the CR removed.

Also if you still have it could you post your J-Runner log file from when you were originally reading/writing the nand?

So CAP means using capacitor to connect A-F!!! Thanks.

I just tried to remove all of the solder points except J1D2 QSB and two points directly connected to NAND-X on J2B1.

After I plugged the power and connected NAND-X to computer, I can see it in hardware manager, however, nandpro 3 told me "Looking for usb interface device, Can not continue". Flash to 2.0, nandpro 2.0e told me "Looking for usb interface device, Could not detect a flash controller! Can not continue".

Checked those points, J1D2 got 0.03V, 3.23V, 0.03V, 0V (40ohms) no bridge between them.

J2B1 got 3.23V, 0V(2.8 kohms) (here I found a issue? point 8, which is ground, has continuity with 5, 7, 9, 11 when no power plug, don't know is that normal?)

Still no clue of it. Just try plug dvdrom, fan and turned it on, the light on front panel kept on, fan turned, but black screen. 10 min after still the same.

I think the first step might be get the control of nand, but don't know why couldn't connect to nand.

For the third pic, which was taken when it seemed successful wrote ecc to xbox, but then I found it didn't boot on xell. Therefore I have no chance to get my cdkey so far. And, you are right, I made a mistake to connect the 7 (it is supposed to connect to 5), which I mentioned in the original post, and I don't know was that the main problem coming from. I hope the southbridge is still alive!! Is there any way to check it out?

I have a scheduled trip during weekend, so I will try the suggestion you post after this. Good to know that you are just 45 min away, probably I can bring it to you to take a look and figure out what's problem of my bad handling. Thanks.
 

azsta1986

Full Member
Aug 2, 2011
28
0
cumbria
www.facebook.com
i would also try removing the nand x qsb and try just the wires. i garrentee your short is with that. plus your orange and yellow wires wrong way around orange is B and yellow is C
 
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yuanchia

Junior Member
May 17, 2012
17
0
College Park, MD
Sorry, that picture is still too small to read.

Yes, I wrote xell to it, and no red-ring error, just kept flashing (no dvddom) or steady (with dvdrom). But since I used Xnand healer GUI to do it, I didn't find any log file for those process.

This cap point marked in red. Sorry, my explanation was not clear: http://www.team-xecuter.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=7154&d=1331156828

What is currently written to the nand, Xell? I assume that's why you never get a red-ring error with the CR removed.

Also if you still have it could you post your J-Runner log file from when you were originally reading/writing the nand?
 
L

LoneWolf913

Right behind A and B on the Coolrunner in this pic: http://i46.tinypic.com/z0qcy.jpg where it says 'CAP' and has two little solder pads. Connect those together when it comes time to re-install the Coolrunner to your console.

Also Azsta is right, same pic, you've got your B and C wires backwards from the official install pictures, which is why you couldn't get the system to glitch. At this point if the console still turns on I would go ahead and re-install your CR, following very closely the TX-provided tutorial with regard to the connection points and wire colors, and see if you can at least boot Xell. Once that happens, it doesn't matter if you can read and write your nand with a nand-x as you can flash the nand right from your console.

Sorry, that picture is still too small to read.

Yes, I wrote xell to it, and no red-ring error, just kept flashing (no dvddom) or steady (with dvdrom). But since I used Xnand healer GUI to do it, I didn't find any log file for those process.
 

yuanchia

Junior Member
May 17, 2012
17
0
College Park, MD
Back home and tried it.

I saw the CAP on CR and soldered those two CAP pads together.
Also connecting CR with correct points and plugged with DVDROM, Fan.

When I pressed button, the fan worked but CR flashed green light only once, then no more green light. The power light is always ON. No signal showed on screen.
Any suggestion? Thanks.

Right behind A and B on the Coolrunner in this pic: http://i46.tinypic.com/z0qcy.jpg where it says 'CAP' and has two little solder pads. Connect those together when it comes time to re-install the Coolrunner to your console.

Also Azsta is right, same pic, you've got your B and C wires backwards from the official install pictures, which is why you couldn't get the system to glitch. At this point if the console still turns on I would go ahead and re-install your CR, following very closely the TX-provided tutorial with regard to the connection points and wire colors, and see if you can at least boot Xell. Once that happens, it doesn't matter if you can read and write your nand with a nand-x as you can flash the nand right from your console.
 

Slayertex6

VIP Member
Jan 30, 2011
1,199
0
Galveston, Texas
I've been reading through the post's. You said you wired it correct this time. Have you tried without the cap bridged on CR since you reinstalled CR? This is a 16mb Jasper and that cap is usually for BB jaspers.
 

yuanchia

Junior Member
May 17, 2012
17
0
College Park, MD
Thanks for your patience on reading.:smile:
I tried this time for bridged it. But I can still try to remove the bridge and turn it on again. Do you think it's a problem?

I've been reading through the post's. You said you wired it correct this time. Have you tried without the cap bridged on CR since you reinstalled CR? This is a 16mb Jasper and that cap is usually for BB jaspers.
 
L

LoneWolf913

You can try it. I have two BB Jaspers. My 512 wouldn't glitch right with it bridged. I ended up using the blue cap that came extra with my CR.
Agreed, staff always says to try everything, may as well. I had a Zephyr that needed the cap point bridged believe it or not, it's not just for Jaspers.
 

yuanchia

Junior Member
May 17, 2012
17
0
College Park, MD
Just removed the cap and turned the box on, but nothing difference. I am suspecting if the problem came from the nand (probably the ecc?). However, how can I figure it out without reading my nand?
 
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Slayertex6

VIP Member
Jan 30, 2011
1,199
0
Galveston, Texas
I had that problem once, where I couldn't read or write to the nand. Found out that the spi was blown. You may have done this by wiring something wrong earlier on. I had to install a cygnos to read and write to the nand. Now TX has the Demon which is better. You may end up having to install one of those, since they hook directly to the nand.
 
L

LoneWolf913

I had that problem once, where I couldn't read or write to the nand. Found out that the spi was blown. You may have done this by wiring something wrong earlier on. I had to install a cygnos to read and write to the nand. Now TX has the Demon which is better. You may end up having to install one of those, since they hook directly to the nand.
Quoted for truth, although my own experience was a bit stranger, had a Zephyr that I got in with what I assumed was a blown SPI, hooked a Cygnos to it, Cygnos wouldn't read either for whatever reason (probably missed a pad cause I was rushing), removed it, and suddenly the J-R Prog I was using started detecting the nand. Never touched the wiring for it either..so no clue if I managed to reset the nand somehow or what..but it worked at least.
 

TilVl

VIP Member
May 11, 2011
1,393
0
Your stbyclk looks like it is briding. Is it flashing green?

Sent from my SGH-T839 using Tapatalk
 

yuanchia

Junior Member
May 17, 2012
17
0
College Park, MD
It seems you looked at the pic really carefully.
Yes, it flashed green.

Long story short, I have bridging it when I first did soldering work, then I found the fan won't move, box can't power on, can't boot. Then I figured out the stbyclk is just one point of them (originally I thought stbyclk was the whole area) and them I de-soldered and soldered it again. So it looks like bridging on the pic, but it is actually detached, which is also confirmed by multimeter. Thanks.

Your stbyclk looks like it is briding. Is it flashing green?

Sent from my SGH-T839 using Tapatalk
 
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TilVl

VIP Member
May 11, 2011
1,393
0
Could be your wire routing. Try cleaning it up a little. The blue wire. Get it away from those 4 solder points.

I route mine like so.

My bad notice you can read nand. So it flashes green but you can't read? Trying resoldering your nand reader?

Try to solder ground of your nand reader to av port.

Sent from my SGH-T839 using Tapatalk
 
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