RGH - Xbox no power. Possibly burned a trace.

Lumisoft

Noob Account
Apr 5, 2018
3
0
Hello. I recently tried to RGH my Conorona v1 Xbox. This was my first try and I didn't care much about braking it. I know my soldering is quite bad and it's like the third time I tried to resolder everything. I successfully flashed the xbox, removed JR Programmer, soldered Coolrunner Rev-C and it was showing red light when I turned on Xbox so I tried to re-solder it. After second try - there was no light on Coolrunner - but xbox turned on(Black screen of course) and after like 3 - 5 seconds turned off and never turned back on again. Power brick is showing orange light and never changes. Previously, when xbox was turned off but connected to power brick - JR programmers light was green even when unplugged from PC, now it's not getting any power from xbox(and I tried to resolder it 3 times) and the light turns green only when connected to PC. When I try to flash the xbox with stock - it fails with "iotimed out error writing block" for every block.

In the last two pictures it looks like the trace is burned but I have no clue how to fix it since it goes to KSB chip(or however it's called)
If possible to fix, please let me know, if not - it won't be a huge loss. Thanks a lot.

https://imgur.com/InlL6YB
https://imgur.com/GBZGjvT
https://imgur.com/vwXestc
https://imgur.com/5775tAY
https://imgur.com/Hctd8S1
https://imgur.com/dACR5Wp
 

gavin_darkglide

VIP Member
Dec 14, 2012
2,303
118
I didnt see any obvious burned traces. That being said, some of those points you can test. The blue and green wire goes to 2 resistors underneath of them. Look at the corona v3/v4 guide, as they removed those resistors from v3/v4 boards. The yellow wire goes to ground. the rest go directly to the southbridge, so I dont think there is another place you can use to test continuity. Someone else might know something different though. Also, is is possible you flashed an image with the wrong SMC, which could cause R/W issues, and the easiest way I know to fix that is to connect power to the board, while holding a screwdriver, or something else metal to the d0-d7 resistors on the bottom of the board, which shorts out the data lines, and forces the southbridge to load the recovery SMC stored on it. I have used this method to recover a few bad flashes over the years, but it can be tricky to get the timing right.
 

chris2122

Not a goblin
VIP+ Member
Mar 11, 2011
214
23
.
Hello. I recently tried to RGH my Conorona v1 Xbox. This was my first try and I didn't care much about braking it. I know my soldering is quite bad and it's like the third time I tried to resolder everything. I successfully flashed the xbox, removed JR Programmer, soldered Coolrunner Rev-C and it was showing red light when I turned on Xbox so I tried to re-solder it. After second try - there was no light on Coolrunner - but xbox turned on(Black screen of course) and after like 3 - 5 seconds turned off and never turned back on again. Power brick is showing orange light and never changes. Previously, when xbox was turned off but connected to power brick - JR programmers light was green even when unplugged from PC, now it's not getting any power from xbox(and I tried to resolder it 3 times) and the light turns green only when connected to PC. When I try to flash the xbox with stock - it fails with "iotimed out error writing block" for every block.

In the last two pictures it looks like the trace is burned but I have no clue how to fix it since it goes to KSB chip(or however it's called)
If possible to fix, please let me know, if not - it won't be a huge loss. Thanks a lot.

https://imgur.com/InlL6YB
https://imgur.com/GBZGjvT
https://imgur.com/vwXestc
https://imgur.com/5775tAY
https://imgur.com/Hctd8S1
https://imgur.com/dACR5Wp
Your post out has excessive solder on it, can't see any of your other rgh points. Your coolrunner light would be on as long as the 3v was attached and the switch is on nor. Xbox turning on with nothing happening is understandable since your glitch chip wasn't on. Try remove rgh wires and flash stock nand to see if the Xbox still boots

Ps the more solder you put on the longer it takes the iron to melt it, especially if you use a small tip, due to the small surface area of the end of the tip it's advantageous to use less solder and more flux as flux facilitates your soldering.

Excess solder is a prime culprit of cold joints and that can cause poor connectivity and over time the solder can crack and break down. The nand points are a good practice point since they're bigish through holes, however do note that yellow is ground and thus means the ground will dissipate a lot of the heat quickly and require more heat to reach melting point for the solder, so just make sure everything is pre-tinned and put a small small blob on your iron itself then touch between the hole and the wire, between doing that and the flux, it should flow off from the iron onto the point and the wire quite nicely.
 
Last edited: