RROD 0020 on Falcon only when POST cable attached - no XELL

[Martin C]

If you're referring to this:

[h=1]Xecuter R-JTAG Installation & Setup Guide *** UPDATED JULY 26th 2013 ***[/h]
your point is moot since no image within the instructions show anything connected to the header.

In terms of power setting, in the above link:

Here are the R-JTAG voltage settings. It is open as default as most users don't need to set this. Some users may find 1.2v works better and we found that 1.8v helped in a minority of cases.

You don't need to be a mind-reader to work through the guides and stickys. This stuff ain't for noobs. You still need a basic understanding of various components (such as NAND read/write) before starting. If you want to stand your ground and just say you couldn't find anything on this site to help you before you started, I will happily call BS. You're advised to read/understand before starting, which you've clearly not done.

 

[akula169]

You're advised to read/understand before starting, which you've clearly not done.

I found plenty to get started. I've done a number of JTAG installs, just never used this kit before. I read the stickied tut, top to bottom, at least 20 times, trying to troubleshoot my problem. Please don't make assumptions. Clearly? What is clear is that the tutorial was not written by someone with technical documentation experience.

I don't want to get into an argument here. I'm just stating facts. You are too. The difference between the situations is that one of us has more experience with the product. The docs don't come anywhere close to what is gained from reading and responding to hundreds of forum posts. Sorry, but until now, I've never had a "well, you should have known this much and the rest is up to you" experience with a T-X product.

 

[Martin C]

That's probably because up til RGH/R-JTAG, the amount of understanding you needed would have been a lot less. For example - replacement D4S PCB is step by step documented as it's a linear path with no variables. The JF PDF covers flashing drives extremely well.

RGH/R-JTAG is far more technical. We really cannot document everything 100% accurately in one go as there's so many variables to deal with. This is where reading and understanding comes into play. You've still not stated why you connected the cable to to the headerpin when there are no images to tell you to do so.

We have a few people come on here and say 'there's no documentation', yet we have folk who will follow the tutorials, read the stickys to the point they understand what they're doing and happily install kit without asking a single question. How do you think I learned (and other people?). Reading. Lots of reading. It's important to do so because if/when you mess up, you'll at least have a way out rather than ruining a console/product. We have so much information on this site and it can feel daunting, however you just need to get your toes in the water and have a paddle in the font of knowledge that's here. All information is available and you're welcome to ask any questions on things you don't understand in the stickys - we really are here to help you. However you do need to help yourself too.

 

[akula169]

Here's an idea. Add this to the tutorial: "Hey, there's a cable in the kit that you don't need to use for this. Just don't worry about it".

Oddly enough, you would have spent way less time adding that single sentence to the tutorial than you would have explaining something I already know in several paragraphs over several posts.

Anyhow... we've strayed way off topic here. You might want to remove the [FIXED] part of the title. My box has gone from working to getting to POST 21 before it hits POST A0 and starting the loop again.

Where is the Rater tutorial? Do I need to unplug the box between changing dip switches?

 

[Martin C]

We've not strayed off topic. You've still to read the instruction thread that was posted.

Have you tested all 18 configurations? There are 6 DIPs and 3 power settings and the RATER tutorial is also in that thread. I can see you read it. Not.

So because *you* decide to do something outwith the instructions, we need to tell you NOT to do it? Where does that end, exactly? Would you like us to add 'don't submerge your console in water', or 'don't use a blowtorch to solder'? How about 'don't do anything that's not in this instruction thread that you don't understand?' As I said, the cable is supplied with the J-R Programmer as it's a separate product with other uses. I'm at a loss how you don't understand this.

 

[akula169]

We've not strayed off topic. You've still to read the instruction thread that was posted.

Have you tested all 18 configurations? There are 6 DIPs and 3 power settings and the RATER tutorial is also in that thread. I can see you read it. Not.

Do you think I'm an idiot? Apparently so. Assumptions continue.

Of course I READ THE [swearing redacted] TUTORIAL (the twelve sentences written there are memorized at this point) and have tried dips 1-6 at all three power settings. Let's recall at the default voltage (no soldered jumpers) that I ran into the issue that the POST looped like crazy.

Seriously. Work with me here:

Every time, every POST output for every DIP setting (on 1.2 and 1.8v):

Post 10 - Payload/1BL started 
Post 11 - FSB_CONFIG_PHY_CONTROL Post 12 - FSB_CONFIG_RX_STATE 
Post 15 - FETCH_OFFSET 
Post 18 - FETCH_CONTENTS 
Post 1B - RC4_DECRYPT 
Post 1C - SHA_COMPUTE 
Post 1D - SIG_VERIFY 
Post 1E - BRANCH 
Post 20 - CB entry point reached 
Post 21 - INIT_SECOTP 
Post A0 - Panic - VERIFY_SECOTP_6

and repeat

I was able to boot the box within 2-4 cycles for about 10-15 times before I ran into this issue where I can no longer boot.

 

[Martin C]

So if all 18 configurations are tested and you still get 21-A0, you need to recheck all soldering. If it all looks ok, return the console to stock and desolder the R-JTAG board (you can leave the QSB in place) just to make sure the console still boots normally.

 

[xzanox]

Easy there, bud. The only "documentation" I could find was the collection of jpegs and some terse notes: which is the post that is stickied at the top of this sub-forum. NO MENTION of that cable or the fact it should NOT be connected. I went with common sense and noted the correlation of markings on both the JR2 board and the header's screen print label (TMS,TDI,TDO, etc,etc). The values matched. It made sense to me at the time... especially when things weren't working out as expected. Not all of us are pro-installers. And the rest are not mind-readers.

I'll gladly stand corrected if you could kindly point out some detailed documentation. At least in this forum, there are no instructions pointing out where or how one would go about rewriting timing files. No doubt I saw that big-ass pink warning box... loud and clear. And I clearly had no idea how one would accomplish such a thing anyhow.

Don't want to be a pain in the ass, but i don't read anything about the cable being connected and the warning to write any files to the r-jtag chip makes it common sense to me to not attach it. For next time you know now...

from the guide>:

Basic J-Runner Instructions

There are for more indepth guides to using J-Runner however is as a simple breakdown of the steps required for the new R-JTAG option:

Note: Minimum dashboard version required is 15574.

1. Read NAND x 2 (compare)
2. Tick R-JTAG check box
3. Select AUD_CLAMP On or OFF depending on JTAG QSB installation
4. Create xell reloaded
5. Write xell reloaded
6. Boot to xell, get cpu key
7. Create JTAG image of newest dash version (ensure R-JTAG is checked)
8. Write nand
9. Use rater to fine tune boot times

Thats it


Edit: I think my post comes a little late and not to the point...i haven't refreshed the page before posting.

 

[FJB66]

If you cant follow and understand the tut then you are probably better off getting an expert to do it for you. I am new to consoles, but had no difficulty installing an R-Jtag from the tut, it is clear and straight forward. You do need the necessary soldering skills and understanding of electronics and how to use a multimeter, if you don't you will have a brick on your hands.

 

[akula169]

If you cant follow and understand the tut then you are probably better off getting an expert to do it for you. I am new to consoles, but had no difficulty installing an R-Jtag from the tut, it is clear and straight forward. You do need the necessary soldering skills and understanding of electronics and how to use a multimeter, if you don't you will have a brick on your hands.

And you happened to be lucky enough for it to work the first time. I was not. And it turned out in the end, there was no lack of soldering skills or understanding of electronics on my part.

 

[akula169]

9. Use rater to fine tune boot times

Thats it

Seems to me there could be an entire tutorial on this point alone. If one does exist (searches have turned up no fruit), please be so kind to point me in that direction.

 

[akula169]

So if all 18 configurations are tested and you still get 21-A0, you need to recheck all soldering. If it all looks ok, return the console to stock and desolder the R-JTAG board (you can leave the QSB in place) just to make sure the console still boots normally.

I reflashed the stock firmware. All I need to do is unplug the Post cable from the r-jtag to get the console to boot normally.

 

[Martin C]

Seems to me there could be an entire tutorial on this point alone. If one does exist (searches have turned up no fruit), please be so kind to point me in that direction.

Introducing Rater for R-JTAG Phat Consoles

an entire section in the instruction thread which you say you read.

 

[FJB66]

And you happened to be lucky enough for it to work the first time. I was not. And it turned out in the end, there was no lack of soldering skills or understanding of electronics on my part.

It was not luck, more to do with me being a qualified electrician with years of experience with electronics, also the ability to follow a simple guide.

 

[akula169]

It was not luck, more to do with me being a qualified electrician with years of experience with electronics.

Hurray. Pat yourself on the back. Honestly, I don't see how your posts are helping my issue.

Introducing Rater for R-JTAG Phat Consoles

an entire section in the instruction thread which you say you read.

Yup. Read that. Its a bunch of "hey this thing is great". I'm trying to read between the lines.

Listen. I'm asking for help here. I've provided the information requested in my template. I'm following the rules. I don't think we need to argue that the instructions are vague in places. Please stop defending that fact and let's try and work to solve my problem.

I'm asking for more information than is provided in the same post you keep linking back to. I don't think its a stretch to ask for clarification from those with more experience here.

Question: "Set dip to 5, test. Set dip to 4, test." Back to my question a few posts back: what *exactly* does a "test" mean? Should I detach the power brick between DIP changes?

 

[jsinger47]

All you have to do to test is set a dip and watch the POST

In the case of a spelling error, I blame Tapatalk.

 

[akula169]

All you have to do to test is set a dip and watch the POST

No need to power off? Just change the DIP on the fly?

And thanks for a simple answer to a simple question. I appreciate that.

 

[Martin C]

I said before I'm more than happy to help where you've demonstrated you're not understanding something already documented.

I merely pointed out you insinuated there was no such guide. State specifics and we're happy to help.

You need to power off between DIPs, yes.

 

[jsinger47]

You need to power off between DIPs, yes.

To be honest, no you don't.

Is it smartest to? Yes

 

[gavin_darkglide]

Wow, I find it funny that people dont seem to understand the instructions. Try shortening the cpu_rst(blue) wire to shortest possible length try alt point also, and check points for e and f on both sides of wires. these are the problems that usually throw A0 error, short of cpu reflow/reball. Oh, and to insult Ubergeek on his awesome tutorial is just mean. He probably has more technical experience then you considering he actually helped develop this mod. And since you havnt come up with a better mod, get off your high horse, reread the tutorial, because their are more then 12 sentences, the pictures work as a wiring diagram for the less technical people on the site. I will say that the only systems i have ever had problems with this mod is on 1 falcon that needed a reflow, and a zephyr, before rjtag-1.1, but even then that is 2 out of like 20 installs. Also post 21-A0 is a glitch problem, so as i said, try shortening Blue wire as short as possible, and the green and brown wires might have bad connections, does it seem to pause after post 21 for about 1 sec, if so the glitch chip is slowing the boot process to send glitch, but cpu_rst is loosing the signal, or your dips are wrong. also put the dips back where they would boot, even if it was sporadic, after you mess with wire lengths it should work.