RGH Slim glitch works perfect until any drive is plugged in

[genocide208]

I have a 4gb slim, RGH with Coolrunner works and boots perfectly now, unless I have a dvd drive, or 250gb xbox hard drive plugged in, in which case it doesn't boot at all, just sits and tries?

My Falcon RGH system boots juft fine with the hard drive installed.

Have two separate RGH slims that will both boot with either the dvd or hard drive without issues.

Steps I've taken already;
Gone through every solder point and verfified a good connection with multimeter, again it boots perfectly in less than 3 cycles without any drives.

Reflashed the freeboot image using bot jtag tool, and nandpro 3 and either way I get the same result.

Used multibuilder to create my image 3 seperate times, from 5 seperate matching nand reads, all without a single bad block.

Disconnected the internal 4gb MU card, and i've tried booting with any mix of the MU, HDD, and dvd drive you could imagine, the only way it boots is with the MU and without the dvd or HDD.

Any ideas? I've seen a couple of threads that are similar, but they all get a red ring or throw an error, which this slim doesn't do, it just doesn't boot up.:crazy:

 

[Martin C]

Try flashing the image back using rawflash.

 

[genocide208]

okay ill try that and come back with the results, thanks!

 

[genocide208]

Update:
Looks as though I can't boot with any usb jump drives connected to the console as well?
All 5 usb ports tested, using a 4gb scandisk usb3, 8gb cruzer usb2, 16gb scandisk usb2, and a 1.5tb external usb 3.0 seagate.
In FSD (I currently boot straight to it) I can plug a drive in and it is recognised and usable, on any of the front two ports, however on the back 3 ports the system resets-and fails to boot anything-which is the exact same reaction the console has to plugging in the 250gb hard drive while in FSD.

One thing I should mention is that my original flash was built by another member here and emailed back to me, xell worked perfect, however the dvd and hdd were not connected while I was getting my cpu key, could that be the cause?

---------- Post added at 11:10 ---------- Previous post was at 11:07 ----------

I have also gone back through and verified that there are no solder mishaps, or bridged connections as well. Which leads me to suspect a nand update issue.

Can anyone tell me if the image flashed to the nand has direct control of the external ports (SATA, USB, etc.) during boot? And if this were an issue reguarding the usb/sata controller wouldn't that also affect the wifi card? Wifi works perfectly.

 

[Martin C]

have you tried flashing just XeLL to it and trying from there?

 

[genocide208]

Sorry for all of the additional posts, however I thought it might help to know what hardware I'm using as well.

NAND-X at v3 (have two of them and I've used both without issues)
nand-x to coolrunner cables (again 2 of them)
X360Usbpro one origional style and one brand new one in case (dont think there a difference?)
I am running everything in parallels desktop on a 8-core Mac Pro under windows 7 ultimate x64. I have now done 11 total RGH and not had any issues on any other systems. Including 3 other slims. On that note this was the only NAndread that I could not build an appropriate image in multibuilder though, it was done (THANKS AGAIN) by another member on the forum for me. I did read the nand 5 times, and all five cross checked without issues in jtag tool.
One of the other slims I have was an identical model, and I had no issues at all, in fact I flashed it just before this one.

So my curiosity is peaking in wonder if perhaps this nand has issues with the usb/sata due to my sending it out and having it built, rather than doing it myself in multibuilder? Again all the other 10 consoles went through fine, but multipbuilder gave an error that it couldn't fine my nandump file on this one console, using each of all 5 I pulled...
The built image booted perfectly into xell but I did not have dvd, or hdd installed at the time.
I just tried to run mulibuilder again, and same issues.

I'm sorry for the long winded posts, but I've been a (spoiled) TX user since the original X3 for the xbox classic was first released, and I know that sometimes a weird issue like this can be easily fixed, which can then be added to tutorials, and help everyone. But only when all the cards are on the table.

---------- Post added at 11:23 ---------- Previous post was at 11:21 ----------

have you tried flashing just XeLL to it and trying from there?

Yeah, I went back to just xell, and again no boot with anything in the usb ports.

Also tried letting the console get into the xell screen, and then plugging in the usb into the front (where it's recognised in FSD) and it resets the console just the same as when you plug in or unplug the factory hard drive on a stock console, however it fails to boot from there.

 

[Martin C]

This isn't the first post I've seen regarding losing USB / SATA comms after a reflash. Personally I've not had the problem with any of the consoles I've done and I ALWAYS disconnect everything during reading and writing. There's no power to the SATA bus in standby so no reason why it would need to be addressed at all.

The SMC is the all important part of your NAND which controls functions to the southbridge. If this is incorrect or invalid it MAY cause issues as described. Not having a console to work with however I can't even advise where to start. If someone built you a NAND they may have had problems themselves. Might be worth asking them.

 

[genocide208]

As a starting point is there anyway to tell if the SMC section of my nand has been altered in any way, from the original nand to my freeboot, or even the origional nand to the xell image?

 

[genocide208]

Got it working!!!

Steps I took,
Flashed the stock image back onto the console
Verified that everything worked in nxe stock (usb dvd hard drives etc)
Re-read the nand with and WITHOUT the 4gb MU
Compared the two new reads to the old (where all still matching my original dumps)
rebuilt xell image in jtag tool just to see what's what
All flashes done without anything installed
flashed image and whola!
Everything now working!

Looks like the issue came from one of these things;
1>Nand image rebuilt was sent compressed through email
2>Stock nand image was uploaded to filesonic for access to have it rebuilt
3>used Xellous (and yes it worked, even though I've read there have been a few issues with it crashing on trinity), instead of Xell reloaded on first built image
4>Also reformatted the 250gb hdd with another console-I doubt this was an issue but it's a set that I took so I figured that I would list it.

Thanks for trying to help Martin, hopefully this will help others in the same situation.

 

[Martin C]

So after it's working, did you dump and compare to what you had previously? Just a thought..

 

[genocide208]

I did and they are not the same, which is what leads me to believe that emailing it was the issue. If you are game id like to email you a copy of my nand and my key, have you run them through mulibuilder as well, so that I can compare? That would narrow it down to being either emailed issues, or jtag tool to mutibuilder issues.

 

[AudioProUK]

I`ve got this issue with one of my fats , i`m interested in how you got this working . I tried everything i could think of and it still in the same state even with the original nand flashed back to it . Have you robbed another nand from somewhere or did you just flash your orig nand back , No offence but i`m having trouble following the thread.

 

[genocide208]

also, just used FreeBOOT ToolBox Maker V2.8 By BestPig and the nand was identical as the one built by jtag tool

---------- Post added at 12:25 ---------- Previous post was at 12:22 ----------

I`ve got this issue with one of my fats , i`m interested in how you got this working . I tried everything i could think of and it still in the same state even with the original nand flashed back to it . Have you robbed another nand from somewhere or did you just flash your orig nand back , No offence but i`m having trouble following the thread.

No worries,

Steps I took,
Flashed the stock image back onto the console
Verified that everything worked in nxe stock (usb dvd hard drives etc)
Re-read the nand with and WITHOUT the 4gb MU
Compared the two new reads to the old (where all still matching my original dumps)
rebuilt xell image in jtag tool just to see what's what
All flashes done without anything installed
flashed image and whola!
Everything now working!

I used the first nand image from my own console, never switched it from that.

Then verified from a read that the console (in working order with usb and HDD) and verified the two nand reads matched (this step was to verify that my original nand read was good working and ready to roll.

I then built the ggbuild or whatever its called within jtag tool (and now also FreeBOOT ToolBox Maker V2.8 By BestPig) and have flashed that nand image to the console which gave me back my proper usb functions.

 

[AudioProUK]

Hi , Thanks for the reply . I get stuck at steps 2. lol . Even with the stock nand flashed back i STILL can`t get the thing to boot with usb or HDD plugged in , mmm.

 

[genocide208]

Some of the other guys on the site know a hell of a lot more than me, but that sounds to me more like you have pulled the nand (the first time) and it somehow wasn't a good pull. Was there any bad blocks, what model is it?
Have you tried using someone else's nand and injecting your own key into it to see if it brings back the usb/hdd?

---------- Post added at 12:49 ---------- Previous post was at 12:47 ----------

I might not be in the right "area" on my thinking, but isn't it possible to use a donated nand read from a identical console board, use your own cpu key, and flash it in order to test? I'm just assuming that the southbridge coding would be the same here, so might not be an accurate idea.

 

[DreamZ]

i had this probnlem with my slim, did you go any where near the resistor next to the hana point? my slim wouldnt boot with a dvd drive or hdd connected, turned ut i had accidently unsoldered the resistor slightly

 

[genocide208]

mine ended up being a weird issue on my flash, i had emailed my nand read to someone who compiled it for me, and ended up doing the same thing, however its good to know that there are two easy fixes for the issue, hardware and software based for anyone else having the same issues.

---------- Post added at 14:33 ---------- Previous post was at 14:33 ----------

i had this probnlem with my slim, did you go any where near the resistor next to the hana point? my slim wouldnt boot with a dvd drive or hdd connected, turned ut i had accidently unsoldered the resistor slightly

was it the resistor by the STB_CLK thing?

 

[quicks2k]

if you flash to stock nand and still no sata, you unsoldered or damaged the resistor near the hana point, it's number is r3b14 , make sure its soldered correctly to it's place and that it's not damaged (test with multimeter), if stock nand has sata then ignore my post

 

[DreamZ]

@if you flash to stock nand and still no sata, you unsoldered or damaged the resistor near the hana point, it's number is r3b14 , make sure its soldered correctly to it's place and that it's not damaged (test with multimeter), if stock nand has sata then ignore my [email protected]

true, i had the same problem, racking my brains and i relised i had soldered to R3B14 by accident in the first place and must of pulled the resistor up a tiny bit. re soldered it and had working sata again.

its quite easy to also run over that resistor hen doing the rgh if your not too goot at soldering etc

 

[genocide208]

I had it working again (sata) thinking it was just the nand read file, flashed back and it was all working, got the xbox shell all put back together, etc. and just went to fire it up to find there is no damn usb or sata again...ripped it all back down and under close look noticed that it was slightly bridged on the R3B14 resistor, so i figured oh okay just fix that and im golden...however instead i ended up not just lifting the resistor i removed the whole damn thing! I used a solder wick to remove the solder that was gapping it, and ended up somehow removing even the solder on the board that connected it...
Anyonw know what size the resistor is so i can replace it?