Slim Red Light at Boot

Statecowboy

Statecowboy

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esbmaepo

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Oct 2, 2011
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Soldering points looks fine. Just clean up with alcohol to prevent short.
 
Statecowboy

Statecowboy

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So what are the chances that I had a bad nand flash? I have read the nand about 11 times since I've had this issue and they all match up with the original #1 nand read.

Any advice on the software side of things?

I really don't want to give up on this dude.
 
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esbmaepo

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Oct 2, 2011
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Esbjerg - Denmark
Statecowboy said:
So what are the chances that I had a bad nand flash? I have read the nand about 11 times since I've had this issue and they all match up with the original #1 nand read.

Any advice on the software side of things?

I really don't want to give up on this dude.
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Yeah if only it were that easy. But your console wont behave this way due to bad nand flash. I fear its hardware related:(
 
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H3rmaN

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Dec 4, 2011
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Red light on the PSU = a short somewhere on the board. Go over the whole board, top to bottom (but mainly focus on worked areas) and double check, then tripple check there are no shorts anywhere.
 
Statecowboy

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H3rmaN said:
Red light on the PSU = a short somewhere on the board. Go over the whole board, top to bottom (but mainly focus on worked areas) and double check, then tripple check there are no shorts anywhere.
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The red light is not on the PSU anymore, it was but now it's orange, and the console wont boot. The red light is on the power button of the console.
 
Statecowboy

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OK - I think I got my secondary code, and it's 0010 (4 lights, 4 lights, 1 light, 4 lights). Which is overheating??? The console has not been on in a long time, how could it be overheating?

Edit: Damn, nevermind - this is my error: E04: Unconfirmed: There is a problem with the Southbridge Chip usually dealing with how it connects to the mainboard (cold solder joint/bridged solder joints)

Any advice?

Also - here is a picture of the FT3N2 alt point I sai I damaged....I cant seem to get solder to stick on this point. Any advice on repairing? I dont think this is related to my current issue, but you never know.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/6884345471/in/photostream
 
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esbmaepo

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Next to FT3N2 there is a capacitor (C3N34), they are connected. See if you read a connection with multimeter. There should also be 1.8v on standby power.
 
Statecowboy

Statecowboy

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esbmaepo said:
Next to FT3N2 there is a capacitor (C3N34), they are connected. See if you read a connection with multimeter. There should also be 1.8v on standby power.
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I dont get a connection between the two, but I do get 1.8V on the capacitor with standby power and about 1.6V at FT3N2.

Also - how are they connected? Is it the trace that runs right next to FT3N2 into the cap?
 
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esbmaepo

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Oct 2, 2011
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Statecowboy said:
I dont get a connection between the two, but I do get 1.8V on the capacitor with standby power and about 1.6V at FT3N2.

Also - how are they connected? Is it the trace that runs right next to FT3N2 into the cap?
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I'm not so sure about that connection afterall, sorry:facepalm:

But theres definately a connection between the point in my attached picture and FT3N2. I get a reading on 33ohm when i probe that.

In fact I think that point can be used as an alternative for STBY_CLK. I'm gonna try that out
 
Statecowboy

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I'm going to try and reflow the board tonight, not sure what else I can do.

UPDATE - Tried to reflow board, no go. Any other last dich efforts someone can think of?
 
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esbmaepo

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Oct 2, 2011
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Statecowboy said:
I'm going to try and reflow the board tonight, not sure what else I can do.

UPDATE - Tried to reflow board, no go. Any other last dich efforts someone can think of?
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I think you have a damaged Southbridge. It is replaceable...
 
Statecowboy

Statecowboy

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esbmaepo said:
I think you have a damaged Southbridge. It is replaceable...
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I suppose I need to find another slim to salvage from, could be difficult.

Best I could find for just the southbridge is ~$45, does this sound about right? Doesnt seem worth it.

Guess I'll be parting this 360 out. What a shame.
 
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H3rmaN

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Dec 4, 2011
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NE Scotland
$45 for the southbridge alone is a bit steep. Guys on here have managed to get entire slim motherboards for $25. If you put a wanted ad up someone may have a spare board kicking about they could sell you or salvage the SB from for you. You will need to reball it or get it pre-balled for you if you don't have jigs, stencils, etc for reballing though.
 
Statecowboy

Statecowboy

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Just messing around with this box trying to revive it. Looking at the nand, it seemed strange that my LDV is higher for patch o than it is for patch 1. Could this possibly be the source of my issues? Every other customer's dump I've looked through, the LDV is higher on patch 1, as it should be, right?

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/6804270186/

EDIT - nevermind, found another succesfully rgh'd console with the same patch setup.
 
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skatermike21988

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Nov 24, 2010
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If you haven't already make sure you clean up any and all flux. I had done a slim for a friend just to get his cpu key for future glitching before this latest update. Well I forgot to clean up the flux and after 2 weeks it hardened and caused a short. Was instant red dot and a secondary 0032. Cleaned up the flux around cpu_rst and removed the QSB's and the console is alive and booting again.
 
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