RGH Slim wont glitch

M

mm53668

OK Ive done 3 slims so far but this one is a pain. Got a slim Man 3/11 - Dumped 3 times all match and all clean.

I've created the Ecc from both JTag tool and GGbuild and cant seem to get the glitcher to flash green. I've rewired everything ALOT. Doing so I managed to pull off the Orange wire pad and Yellow wire pad -. I wired in a jumper on the Orange line so that the console boots again (verified by rewritting the orig.bin) and moved the yellow to the CPU side under the heatsink. The Orange wire was moved to the bottom side to prevent any further damage.

Either way I still can't get this to glitch- What am I missing? And yes I've programmed the chip once before all the troubles and a few times since to be sure. I've even tried 2 other coolrunners just to be sure it wasnt a faulty board.

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M

mm53668

Oh and before someone asks the 3.3v line I replaced the braded wire with a solid copper wire (green) to ensure a better connection at the board.
 
M

MysterioMP

Junior Member
Jan 4, 2011
13
0
I've tried to Glitch two Zephers with no luck and and I feel your Pain!!!

But this is what I did to get them to glitch.... yes finally!!!


With both issues i've had in the past I used Jtag tool and both Z's with no glitch.

I then let XnandHealer create and flash me ecc image.

After that they are both now Glitched.

Also use NandPro 3.0 with XnandHealer!!!

Hope this will help you....see ya btw no cap needed
 
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M

mm53668

Multi builder is a no go - I'll give the nand healer a try.

The jumper from the broken trace wouldn't cause any timing issues would it?
 
x360ccm

x360ccm

BANNED
Jan 18, 2011
3,616
0
south coast UK
give it to a pro.they tidy it up aswell.as repair your cock up.:rolleyes2:

looks like you jizzed on this lmao

 
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M

mm53668

Or I could repair it myself as I've done 3 Slim RGHs 1 Jasper and about about 300 Jtags - Anytime I send something off to " A pro" they take 2-3 weeks and then say "oh it can't be fixed" and I end up fixing it myself when I find time.

I'm just looking for a little direction as to why the coolrunner doesn't flash. I'm fine with the wiring and manual labor

I didn't know this was a beauty contest. Isn't the final results all the same? Who cares that the wires don't run uniformly as long as the end results are the same.
 
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x360ccm

x360ccm

BANNED
Jan 18, 2011
3,616
0
south coast UK
mm53668 said:
Or I could repair it myself as I've done 3 Slim RGHs 1 Jasper and about about 300 Jtags - Anytime I send something off to " A pro" they take 2-3 weeks and then say "oh it can't be fixed" and I end up fixing it myself when I find time.

I'm just looking for a little direction as to why the coolrunner doesn't flash. I'm fine with the wiring and manual labor

I didn't know this was a beauty contest. Isn't the final results all the same? Who cares that the wires don't run uniformly as long as the end results are the same.
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thats got to be a classic,i done so many this that and others,but yet you still manage to cock it up pml:rolleyes2:
 
M

mm53668

Listen d**k I'm not looking to be bad mouthed about my work because we're not all as high and mighty as you. I'm just asking for someone to point me in the right direction. I don't want to pay someone I enjoy being able to fix things myself thats why I do this. So if you're not helping would you ever so kindly f**k off.
 
M

mm53668

Thanks you for giving an actual helping response.

Is there one wire more than another that causes the actual reset light? Or can an improper contact on any of them cause it not to flash.
 
S

splatem

Full Member
Aug 6, 2011
79
0
Sth Island, New Zealand
The blue wire (CPU_RST) is the one that will usually stop it glitching on a slim. Moving it to different areas, coiling it up too much, wrong length, can stop it from glitching.
 
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S

splatem

Full Member
Aug 6, 2011
79
0
Sth Island, New Zealand
If blue isn't connected, it won't flash. I would try taking off the heatsink, and test for continuity from pad D on coolrunner to the copper pad further along the CPU_RST trace under the heatsink x-clamp on the bottom. I would also test for continuity with the CPU_RST point under the heatsink on the top of the board. If you have lifted the blue wire solder point, it might not be connected to it's trace on the top side of the board. There is an alt point thread created by thebomber which shows the points you can test at.
 
RROD!

RROD!

VIP Member
Apr 13, 2011
786
0
mm53668 said:
Or I could repair it myself as I've done 3 Slim RGHs 1 Jasper and about about 300 Jtags - Anytime I send something off to " A pro" they take 2-3 weeks and then say "oh it can't be fixed" and I end up fixing it myself when I find time.

I'm just looking for a little direction as to why the coolrunner doesn't flash. I'm fine with the wiring and manual labor

I didn't know this was a beauty contest. Isn't the final results all the same? Who cares that the wires don't run uniformly as long as the end results are the same.
Click to expand...
that is a little wrong to say that you need to watch where you are dropping the wires as this makes the dif of a booting rgh or a slow booting rgh also if somthing is worth doing do it right and there is no need to be rude to ppl as it is not the best way to get help:wink: even if what he said seems a little cheeky
but bk to the problem what did you use to program the CR also how are you witing nandx ?usb?lpt
also do you have a green led on when you are trying to program the coolrunner?
 
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M

mm53668

OK Im throwing in the towel - Someone please help me on this one

I'm now getting Red light rather than booting. I've removed all wires and flashed back the original Nand. Coolrunner is still stuck to the board. I know the red light is due to my F' ups and not actually a system failure so I'm looking for someone with the ability to more than likely reroute a few traces and get this back up and running and get the glitch going on this one.

Also I'm in the US so looking for someone in the Cont. US.
 
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