Sorry if I sounded sarcastic, genuinely didn't mean to. As said first attempt and the first id have known about it scorching would have been the board on fire burning my eyebrows!
Thanks for everyones help so far
ANSWERED Soldering feedback?
- Thread starter Rich007
- Start date
Thanks for everyones help so far
knowlzy10
BANNED
at the end of the day m8 if u not done it before just keep trying, solder and desolder your qsb's a few times till your happy with what your doing
then once u done a few it will be like flashing a drive:wink:
its ok mate we here to help to im just in one cause united got beat ill leave it there lol.
only really tricky one on the phat is the green wire, cant remember what that point is but its the size of a pin head rests a breeze once u get the hang of it
PLL_BYPASS me bad
then once u done a few it will be like flashing a drive:wink:
its ok mate we here to help to im just in one cause united got beat ill leave it there lol.
only really tricky one on the phat is the green wire, cant remember what that point is but its the size of a pin head rests a breeze once u get the hang of it
PLL_BYPASS me bad
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I believe it's the CPU PLL Bypass, and that one hung me up for a minute too. Trim the exposed end of the wire down to the same size as the point, the wires are pre-tinned so all you should need is just a quick touch with the iron. Best wishes in your attempt, I'm rootin for ya!
reefz3ro
VIP Member
Thats really not that bad. the only issues i see really are WAY to much solder with possible bridging problems and it does not look like you were keeping the soldering tip tinned and it wasn't getting the points hot fast enough as some of the joints look like they have been heated way to long to get solder to melt.
All in all just keep practicing and get a feel for it thats all you can do.
a 25-30w iron with pointed tip would be better for what you are trying there. If you want to recap a board a point is useless as it wont hold the heat, A nice wide flat tip with 60w or better iron to do that job (just as a reference for wide tip use vs point tip).
All in all just keep practicing and get a feel for it thats all you can do.
a 25-30w iron with pointed tip would be better for what you are trying there. If you want to recap a board a point is useless as it wont hold the heat, A nice wide flat tip with 60w or better iron to do that job (just as a reference for wide tip use vs point tip).
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When you solder the wire some time help to heat the wire befor so when you have to solder on the PCB is much quicker.
a 30watt iron will be fine with a thin tip on always use flux and clean solder a having solder on the iron too lon dries it out.
also you dont need the smallest thinnest tip you can find as i do Dual nanding and use a 4mm flat tip on my solder station and the legs on a nand are like 0.3mm in size and close to each other.
a good iron is a start, Weller, Antex are very good brands of iron to use as are Hakko
also you dont need the smallest thinnest tip you can find as i do Dual nanding and use a 4mm flat tip on my solder station and the legs on a nand are like 0.3mm in size and close to each other.
a good iron is a start, Weller, Antex are very good brands of iron to use as are Hakko
Do it without the QSB's, its much easier to solder the wire direct to the mobo. The QSB's are a little bit hard to solder, in my opinion they're pretty in accurate compared when you solder the wire directly.
I use a german solderstation (30watt) with german solder iron both of the brand Stannol, its great.
Don't use leadfree soldertin, its a pain in the .. wel you know ... it doesn't stick etc. As for the flux, most soldertin have flux inside it's core so really no need to but it seperatly.
I use a german solderstation (30watt) with german solder iron both of the brand Stannol, its great.
Don't use leadfree soldertin, its a pain in the .. wel you know ... it doesn't stick etc. As for the flux, most soldertin have flux inside it's core so really no need to but it seperatly.
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i use a digital station so i can be exact with temps. and even a nicer radio shack soldering gun will do just fine they have one thats adjustable with a dial and has 20-30-40 and 50 watt settings i own a couple and use them on occasion and they work great for about 20$. ALWAYS use flux....and dont keep the iron on the board try to heat just the point if possible i cant not imagine a qsb to be hard at all to install.
Someone mentioned earlier to try re-soldering the QSB....Can you Solder and DE-solder it multiple times without harming it? Just want to get all my eggs in a row before I try soldering my slim.
Ubergeek
Xecuter Groupie
Sure you can but you need to be good at soldering or you will probably F it up
FLUX FLUX FLUX
Get the 20 dollar 40V to 20v soldering iron from radioshack, its changable with a switch and its durable.
---------- Post added at 06:11 ---------- Previous post was at 06:10 ----------
Better not to do that, but if neccessary do it. But like uber Said FLUX FLUX FLUX!!!!!
---------- Post added at 06:11 ---------- Previous post was at 06:10 ----------
Better not to do that, but if neccessary do it. But like uber Said FLUX FLUX FLUX!!!!!
If you have the right equipment you can do it 100 times and it will be like never ben used before.
Better not to do that, but if neccessary do it. [/QUOTE]
That statement made me laugh a little......
That statement made me laugh a little......
Beat? Tim Howard has scored more goals this calendar year than the whole Man Utd team! Newcastle looked ace
Seriously thanks to everyone for the help. I've been to maplins, got new tips for the iron, solder with flux core (they dont seem to sell lead solder here, so went with silver), and desoldering braid to clear up my mess!
Heres to hoping the next 2 or so hours are more successful, if i can get the joints right, and nand reading i'll stay up until whatever time to get the software right!