Solderless 2.6 CE V1.0 Not Flashing, Not Noob

[broscup]

Okay, Non-Noob, having Noob Problems, no offense noobs...

Whole story,

Friend at work bought an xbox v1.0 online and ordered a 2.6CE chip with the xapter (not xapt3r) solderless solution and wanted me to put it in since I have already done 3 and never had a problem.

I put in the xapter and chip, downloaded everything I needed and created a boot disk with bios 5035 on it. I think I had 5035 in the first bank with flashbios 3.0.3 in the second, it's been a week and about 10 bios' ago.

So, Flash bios came up fine on first boot, I inserted the disk and everything seemed to flash fine and the xbox shut off. I turned it back on and it started FRAGging. I pulled the chip off and it was still FRAGging, pulled the xapter off and it worked fine. Decided I was screwed and ordered the X2 Programmer, the one with the battery socket.

After getting the programmer, I flashed the bios all night with different versions of the bios, all with the same results. Flubber Screen, Xbox TM Screen, Microsoft, Not Xecuter2 at the bottom of the trademark screen, booting strait into the xbox dash.

I know that my xapter is hooked up properly because I connect My X2.3b and it boots up with xecuter2 at the bottom of the trademark xbox screen. And, it appears to be flashing correctly because all LEDs are on, and I can verify and read the bios off of the X2.6 fine, at least it gives no errors and I can save the 2 banks bios to the computer from the modchip.

Is this a bad chip, you think? or am I doing something wrong when programming it?

Thanks a million, sorry for the long post, just wanted everyone to have all the info.

 

[Big_Whoopin]

One area where there have been some issues in the X2.6 series with problem switches, despite that they look to be the same component as on your X2.3b switch bank. Since you've been around the scene a bit doing installs you've probably got a multimeter handy. Take a look at the 2.6 switch schematic link in my sig, there are directions within on how to test out the switch bank. See if you can find any problems there.

Make sure that the ends of the chip to switch cable are fully inserted. A "bow" in the plug could leave some pins with insufficient contact for a working connection.

I don't like the part where you said you removed the chip and the box continued to FRAG, then you removed the Xapter and the box no longer FRAGed... I don't know why the box would have had any problem with just the Xapter in place. I find this unusual. If you haven't already it may help to give the LPC holes a quick cleaning with a pencil eraser in order to improve contact.

-Whoopin'

 

[broscup]

Thanks for the response,

I erased the LPC and checked to make sure the switch connectors were all the way in, unfortunatly I don't have a multimeter, but I seriously need to get one.

May have forgot to mention, I did replace the Xapter with one from my own xbox and have had no problems with or without the mod in place. I had a spare xodus s.p. lying around and am using that with no problems either.

The only thing I could think of besides having a bad chip was the programmer. Do you know if the older 2.x programmer with the battery socket works with the 2.6 CE chip? Thanks again

 

[Big_Whoopin]

Will work fine, I've done it myself. Here's a post I made last week with some details-
http://www.teamxecuter.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31484&page=2&pp=10#post178697

You can find multimeters in a number of places, usually for as cheap as $10USD. One recommendation when looking for one, get something that has an audible continuity check. This means that instead of having to look at the meter to verify 0 Ohms you can be concentrating on where you are touching the contacts and just listen for the beep. I goofed and didn't get this on the last meter I picked up and it really annoys me each time I need it.

-Whoopin'

 

[broscup]

Okay Big_Whoop, here's what I did, (the guy who's mod it is had a volt meter with a audible continuity tester) using the picture below, I assumed that the bottom side of the switch connector was #1 pin (closer to the pinheadder plug) and the top was #8, I used your quick test for continuity to test it. The switch was connected with, Chip Enabled ON, Protect ON, and Bank set to 1.

Everything tested fine with the exception of the 2 to 4 test, which by your diagram is the enable pin right. So this tells me that the switch is bad? What do you think,

Thanks for all the help, and from all of the posts and work you have done, you are truly an asset to the modding community.

 

[broscup]

Just tested it with the plug removed from the mod and it did not work either, and then tested it at the switch itself and it did not work either.

 

[broscup]

Decided to try and splice the 2 and 4 wires together and guess what, it works now, I'm so stoked even though it's not even my box. Just happy to have got it working. Couldn't have done it without you Whoop, thanks.

 

[Big_Whoopin]

Sorry I hadn't been around to reply earlier to your posts, glad to hear that you got the right pins. To avoid future confusion I have tacked an image of the 2.6CE switch bank with pins 1 and 8 marked. Unfortunately it is on page 3, hopefully people reading the thread for help will go that far into it.

-Whoopin'