RGH stby-chlk fix slim-trinity

[jaycboy]

Hey i have been trying to repair my bodged chlk point i managed to get all the glitch done got my key made a freeboot but i damaged the chlk point on assembly of the box :s ....the reistor was damaged gave low readings box wouldnt boot only beep etc....so i solderd a 33ohm resistor (not in its place ontop could this be my mistake?) now the box acts strangely it will boot some times then glitch then it wont boot for a while if i unplug it then it does but doesent glitch fans speed up then it goes back to just beeping no turn on big circle lol... i have glitched a few slims n fats before and can solder smd i have key n everything my resistor value colours are orange orange black gold..any suggestions welcome

 

[Martin C]

maybe send it to someone to fix properly?

 

[jaycboy]

thanks for reply..... ive repaired a lot worse i was thinking maybe remove the smd resistor underneath maybe thats the cause maybe it works intermintantly and is throwing the resistance out and just wanted confirmation that thats the propper resistance/resistor to use...i want to do this myself m8y av been glitching a fair few for peoples console just so happens this is my personal 1 i shouldve been more careful it didnt boot at all just beep till i put the resistor on so i think i am on the right track...Id be looking at 35/40 quid with postage for someone to look at its basicly a 3 min job and a bit of solder so any suggestion as to what you think i have done wrong would be greatly apreciated

 

[Martin C]

It's a £35-40 fix NOW (maybe), however it's possible you could make it worse.

A pic of what you've done so far would be useful.

 

[jaycboy]

I will post one when i have charged the camera...and the only damage was to the pad it was all glued ecc flashed ready to flash freeboot it booted to xell but the wire got a tug while i was assembling it back together....repaired the pad via trace fix still didnt boot just beeped tested resistor was giving my 3/5ohm reading so solderd a resistor 33ohm onto it got it to boot but acts very scatty so thought id ask if anyone has same probs after fix or should i have completely removed the resistor on the board and not solderd to it...will post picture asap thanks

 

[jaycboy]

camera wont charge so had to use my phone ther not the best quality m8y will have to get a new camera...

 

[x360ccm]

the orange wire from the coolrunner.were is that solder to.

 

[jaycboy]

the orange wire from the coolrunner.were is that solder to.

the alternate point underneath the board m8y

 

[x360ccm]

solder it to the resistor and see if it boots.the part of the resistor that got the wire on it.

i seen worse that that.

 

[jaycboy]

solder it to the resistor and see if it boots.the part of the resistor that got the wire on it.

i seen worse that that.

will give it a try thanks m8

 

[jaycboy]

no didnt work m8 i changed the resistor just in case too the weird thing is when i desolder and reslolder it back it works for like 10/30 seconds green light on coolrunner everything looks normal then it jus shuts off i cant turn it back on i just get beep from the front panel nothing else...well stumped

 

[playingmax]

solder w/out the resister. just use direct wire.

 

[josh1095]

i sent mine off to be glitched, when it was returned that same resistor was missing and he tore the pads off. anyway, i didnt have anything that small so i soldered 2 100ohm resistors in parrallel(basic elecronics lol) and followed the trace down. they are massive in comparison but that wont effect the outcome at all. as long as the resistance is in the ballpark, the wattage capability of the resistor will not matter.

 

[jaycboy]

all ready tried direct wire as advised by dgnex and playing max guys thers something seriously wrong with this board the direct wire method worked for 1 boot it booted to xell then i shut it down i tried to reboot and it jus tried glitching then it shut off its doing the just sat there beeping thing now its not been moved touched or anything...weird !!!

 

[x360ccm]

all ready tried direct wire as advised by dgnex and playing max guys thers something seriously wrong with this board the direct wire method worked for 1 boot it booted to xell then i shut it down i tried to reboot and it jus tried glitching then it shut off its doing the just sat there beeping thing now its not been moved touched or anything...weird !!!

do wot you said m8y:biggrin::rolleyes2:

 

[josh1095]

sounds alot like yet another problem i encountered: the cpu rst. check continuity from the alternate point on TOP of the board to the original. i had to jumper that. it was a mess and will cause it to red dot and shut down. just sitting there my cpu rst came off the alternate point and i had to tear it back apart and resolder. just throwing out suggestions

 

[x360ccm]

this is the best i can get on my phone
a m8 of mine really messed it up.so i spent ages to find this point.as the FT3N2 wouldnt work coz he lifted the trace full stop.and resistors

so here the point that i got it to boot up.after i put a new resistor in place.i post the final result once he brings xbox down so i can take a pic.:tongue:

the point i used best i can get on my phone.but it's the long scraped one.

 

[BL4K3Y]

Can you elaborate on that a little bit more dgenx?

I have a Slim here with a the stby_clk pad gone and a missing resistor (the one next to the pad).

Thanks.

 

[x360ccm]

Can you elaborate on that a little bit more dgenx?

I have a Slim here with a the stby_clk pad gone and a missing resistor (the one next to the pad).

Thanks.

this is what i done

the first thing i did was undo all what he had done.

i then fitted a qsb.then put all the wires back on the qsb.

i then put a link wire from were the missing resistor was.to the end of the qsb.like in pic 1.

then because the other end of the orig trace was knakerd.coz he lifted that of to.

i got a old dead slim board.i then started probein around the under side of the board,to find another point to solder to.which is pic 2.

but i didnt want to solder a wire to the under side of the board.
so i probe around to find the trace in the 3rd pic.

i solder a wire to that,then put the other end of the wire to the end of the qsb
.
i then powered it up a to my shock it booted.:biggrin:

so i looked though some old freeview boxes.for resistors.and found 2 to replace the linked wires.

the out come is pic 4.:biggrin::biggrin:

think that about covers what i did

and it's still workin fine for over a week now.:biggrin:

 

[josh1095]

dgenx: that looks almost the same as mine! except you did alot cleaner work. i followed it down to the little circle pad that it ends at and soldered there, just a cm past where u opened the trace. from there,u wire in a resistor to the pad, or trace, coming off the hana. then run ur stby wire on the side of the resistor next to the trace, not hana. it should work, did for me