Strange issue with Power/Reset board

[openwindow]

Hi All,

Hope someone may be able to help me. I've installed my X3 in a 1.0 box. If I do not use the power/reset board, my box and chip work as expected (with the added hassle of having to go thru x3config live to turn the chip off). When I plug my front panel into the power/reset board, the xbox powers on immediately after I plug the power cord into the xbox, and I cannot turn the xbox off using the front buttons (power turns it off briefly, eject works as expected).

i've checked to make sure all wiring is correct, that none of the cables were being crimped to the front panel, and the chip isn't hot to the touch. I even took the pinheader and tried to install the whole package into a 1.3 box, but it did the exact same thing! Does anyone have any ideas as to what may be wrong? Thanks.

 

[asclepius]

Several people have had problems with defective power eject cards.

See this post.

http://www.teamxecuter.com/index.ph...pic&t=19140&postdays=0&postorder=asc&&start=0

Some people have been able to identify clear solder bridges on the card that they have removed on their own in order to get things working. Others, like myself, have not been able to identify what is wrong with the card, and are hoping that team xecuter will come forward and allow us to exchange the cards.

 

[openwindow]

yikes. thanks for the heads up asclepius. i'll check for bridges when i get home and keep an eye on your topic. hopefully a resolution will arrive.

 

[openwindow]

after reviewing that other thread, I removed the sticky stuff behind the power/reset board. Found a bridged contact behind that stuff. Desoldered and all was well. Kind of annoying though to no longer have the sticky stuff. Good luck to everyone having this problem...

 

[asclepius]

glad it worked for you


however, i cannot find any solder bridges on my power/eject board, so no easy fix for me....

 

[jackdbum]

oh well, if you arn't going to use xbl then just dont fit the power/eject board

 

[ktiedt]

I just ran into trouble with this issue today, and just a reference for future users with the same problem, if you an take a multi meter on the continuity setting and NOT get an OPEN (0L) reading, then the 1 of the 2 ports that the POWER/EJECT cable, part #4 on the tutorials page, plugs into has the solder on the FRONT of the daughterboard too close together... there should be a visible break between each of the 4 solder joints.

Hope this saves someone as much time as I just wasted trying to fix this install...

Here's a pic with the 2 sets of solder points circled in red... the 3 covers up 1 of them, but it should be identical to the pair you can see

Forgot to mention I did have to repair the BOTTOM of those solder joints also, I did this by pulling out one of the wire install wires stripping a large section and using it as a solder wick (for those cheapskates who dont buy wick or those lazy people who left the solder sucker at work )

 

[RoaZtedPuppy]

thanx for the help

 

[RoaZtedPuppy]

to other people of course. i would never have any problems of any sort whatso ever