Switchless mod.

Mizzle

Noob Account
Sep 14, 2004
5
0
California
Lemme, i just bought two 2.6 CE modchips from bmmods. 12 hours later of testing checking my solder points I called a friend and had him bring over his modded xbox to help me. We found out that the external switch moduals were bad. The question i have: Is there a way to keep the chip enabled without the switch? I have another xbox for live so this one can been enabled all the time. If anyone has any ideas, or can point me to a tutorial to help me it would be greatly appreaciated. Thanks!
 

Big_Whoopin

VIP Member
Jan 29, 2004
811
0
SE Pennsylvania, USA
First, I would contact bmmods and see what they can do regarding getting you a replacement switch. This should be something the retailers take care of. Now, if you still want to go switchless check out my X2.6CE switch schematic post in the chip forum. (probably where you should have posted, this forum is BIOS related. Oh wait, we're already there!) Here's the link- http://www.teamxecuter.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36327 You may still want to be sure that you can switch between banks 1 and 2 to make BIOS upgrades, if needed, easier and to provide a backup.

Keep in mind, as I mentioned in the thread I do *not* know if the positive voltage (5v I believe) return needs to be looped back to make the chip work. I will be testing this out later but at the moment I do not know.

-Whoopin'
 
Last edited:

mcowher

Noob Account
Sep 13, 2005
2
0
Could you put together a diagram like this for the 2.3 Pro? Mine has 4 dip switches, a enable/disable switch and an LED. The cable has 8 wires, and I'd like to remove the external switch and just wire the Mod chip semi-permanently inside the box.
 

Big_Whoopin

VIP Member
Jan 29, 2004
811
0
SE Pennsylvania, USA
I've got one for the 2.3/2.3B Lite in the discontinued chips forums, but unfortunately I've never had my hands on a 2.3 Pro. If anyone would be able to give/loan me a switch bank I could make up the schematic, but otherwise the best I can do is guess. So, here's what I've got-

The switch bank has 4 switches in the DIP, 1 enable/disable switch and a dual color LED. Two of the pins to the switch will need to be a positive voltage for the LED and a ground. Typically the ground is common and used by multiple switches. The enable/disable switch is likely DPDT in order to switch both the LED color and ground D0. D0 would need to be one of the leads going to the switch. Generally DIP switches are on/off, or each switch is SPST. 4 switches, 1 input per switch. These get grounded to signal to the chip that the switch is in the on position. Now, add all this up (1 ground, 1 positive, 1 D0, 4 DIP switches) and you only have the need for 7 wires. I'm at a loss as to what the 8th wire is, unless the Pro chip was already using the 5v return to the chip like I found on the 2.6CE. The Lite model of the same time was not doing this so I'm not really sure if the Pro would have.

At best I would probably need the chip as well to confirm what happens with the leads on the board, but I could likely nail it with just the switch bank. Know anyone that could get me a switch and I will get you, well, I will get everyone on the forums a schematic of it. I guess it's a long shot but PM me if you know someone that can provide me a switch. A USA address would be best since then it would only be a stamp or two to mail. Otherwise if you've got a multimeter and are willing to run the tests I could give you some tips.

-Whoopin'