FIXED System wont boot dual nand side anymore

[blober54]

I did this install for a customer about 3 weeks ago and it worked perfectly fine. I got a call from the guy saying that he cant get it to boot up on the demon side anymore, sometimes when he tries to boot it up after several tries it will. The stock side boots up everytime.

This system when I had it always glitched within 20-30 seconds.

I have it back at my place now and with it apart I notticed that the debg led (green one) does not blink anymore and the fan sounds like it wants to speed up... like its ticking every second to speed up, but staying at the same speed.

I'm stumped because I know he never opened it since I put stickers on the case so I know if people do lol. I went over all the solder points again, I even swapped in a new coolrunner with no difference at all.

Any ideas?

 

[BL4K3Y]

Before we proceed, you should upload some images of the install, particularly the DemoN side of things.

 

[blober54]

yup... here's a few... my lighting sux for pics right now lol

 

[BL4K3Y]

Can you read/write to both NANDs fine?

I ask because solder pads D0 through D7 don't look to be making contact with the board.

If they are, do a continuity test with the alternate points/NAND pins.

It might also be an idea to test continuity on the CR_EN module and the header pins on the DemoN to ensure it has a good connection.

 

[blober54]

yes D0-D7 are all good, I can red/write to both no issues... and the cr-en on the demon and the addon board on the coolrunner the en spot have good connection

 

[XL3THAL VIP3RX]

i had the same problem with my own console,worked flawless for a few month then picked and choosed when it wanted to boot the demon side.
i checked evrything and mean evrything.
in the end i took the demon out and evrything booted fine on stock,reinstalled the demon and same issue.ive done a few installs since and no problems lol just mine still.

 

[Martin C]

Have you tried flashing the ECC to the DemoN again to eliminate a bad image?

 

[blober54]

Have you tried flashing the ECC to the DemoN again to eliminate a bad image?

just tried this... the system still is turning on and no green led on the coolrunner flipped to slim mode and the fan is still sounding like it wants to speed up... when I turn it off the fan kicks up to full speed before the system shuts all the way off...


on a side note... just for sh*ts, I tried to coolrunner flipped to phat mode and it blinks... but the system never glitches. So i dunno if that means anything either.

 

[4 O R M]

Had a dual nand slim a few days ago that had similar symptoms. Initially, it was glitching, but after a few times of testing the glitch speed, it didn't glitch at all. Flipped the switch to phat and the debug light kept flashing but no glitch. How I got it to work was opening the jumper at JP near the switch.

 

[Martin C]

I would also reprogram the CR with Trinity_EN timings in case he's been 'playing'...

 

[Farouk123456]

On the third image, the ground is not supposed to be there is it? or is this an alternate grounding point?!

 

[skytecbvmo]

On the third image, the ground is not supposed to be there is it? or is this an alternate grounding point?!

it a ground it's fine there

 

[blober54]

ok, I tried reflashing the cr timings like martin suggested... when I do that it will try to glitch like normal but the timing doesnt seem right cuz the debug led blinks 5 secs then 8secs then like 15 secs.

I got it to boot once but this isnt right lol, and after it booted up glitched it wouldnt glitch again.

Also notticed that the stock side when I try to boot into it the system turns on and red lights. If I remove the en add on board to the coolrunner it takes an extra 3 secounds to red light.... so I'm wondering could that be having issues actually enabling and disabling the chips?

 

[4 O R M]

Try opening up the JP jumper point by removing the 0 ohm resistor (this solved my non glitching problem.) This also is said to eliminate the red dot on stock nand
as mentioned in this thread

 

[blober54]

Try opening up the JP jumper point by removing the 0 ohm resistor (this solved my non glitching problem.) This also is said to eliminate the red dot on stock nand
as mentioned in this thread

I have a rev.b on in their... where is the jp jumper at?

---------- Post added at 22:15 ---------- Previous post was at 22:09 ----------

ok... so the c15 spot... I already removed that one it looks like since I had used this for rgh2.0 on a jasper before (this is the 2nd coolrunner I've installed in this system to try to figure out whats up lol) so ya, guess that doesnt help this one out

 

[blober54]

I rebridged that spot and it tries to glitch... it will blink 1-2 times then the fan will sound like its ticking again and after about 8-10 secs it will try and glitch again then it wont anymore.

IDK whats up with this lol... its hella weird

 

[Martin C]

Images of your coolrunner would be very useful of course..

 

[blober54]

Images of your coolrunner would be very useful of course..

I can if you want me to... but I found another coolrunner in my desk... installed it and flashed the proper files and voila! its booting up stock and glitch.

And I figured out why it was booting up with a red dot on the stock nand... I accidentally flashed the older dash on it when I was testing the read write abilities lol, so flashed on the latest stock dash and wammo.. it was booting up fine again

So ya, the 2 coolrunners I have that I was testing with for some reason do not like being pared with a demon.

 

[gamehawk55]

The reason the fan is ticking like that is because you are getting too much interference through the CPU_RST wire. BL4KEY and OGGY have said that removing the C15 cap on a coolrunner Rev. A or B will remedy that interference "ticking". Also switching the CR to PHAT mode fixes that too, but getting a slim to boot in PHAT mode can be a pain sometimes. That interference is also what is causing the red dot when booting the stock nand. You need to make sure that the fan only "ticks" once per reset on the coolrunner or you will end up getting red dot on retail side. I had this problem with my second demon install and I ended up just using the 50cm wire coiled under the mobo in the "usual" spot and that got rid of the interference for me and then just trimmed the wire down to get the system booting faster. But if you trim it too short that ticking will start coming back. It's just a lot of trial and error but eventually you'll find the sweet spot.