DGX Trinity fan clicking

ChrisShUK

Junior Member
Dec 7, 2011
15
0
Hi guys,

Please forgive me if this has been answered, i have searched and searched but found nothing that fits with my problem 100%.

I have 3 trinity boards here and all are doing the same thing and i cannot work out why!

I have included pics of the soldering for this board and a video to show the problem i am having.

What i need to know if if the clicking and slowing down / speed up of the fan is normal? All the boards i have tried are doing the same thing, green light on the DGX followed by the fan click, just repeats its self over and over.
I have read in some posts that the click is the xbox crashing and rebooting, i have also read of people says they finally have the fan clicking sound and had success shortly afterwords.
I have tried many cable lengths and still get the exact same thing, always green light, always clicking!
Is there something i have missed? i do have some 10pf caps on order so hoping that will help. Just wanted to see if anyone else was having this kind of issue.


As you can see i have damaged the DGX but have tested my repair and all looks good, it is worth noting the solder point broke after trying so many different types of cable in the end the track just came away :facepalm:

Video:- [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZaysAFqdsRE"]Trinity fan click - YouTube[/ame]

Pics:-











Many thanks
Chris
 

ChrisShUK

Junior Member
Dec 7, 2011
15
0
Thanks for your reply Martin, i just need to know if this is normal behavior or not. I'm getting confused as i have read on the DGX FAQS

"If you haven't get your CPU key after 5 minutes or if you hear "ticking" sounds, do a hard reboot (unplug the power brick for 30 seconds) and then try again with tweaked wire lengths - keep doing so until you get the CPU Key - we recommend use use the USB COMMS Cable and J-Runner COMMS Monitoring for faster results"

Is this not the ticking sound that the FAQS speak off? Or am i nearly there and just need to keep tweaking my wire lengths.

Chris.
 

Steel City Mods

VIP Member
May 30, 2012
527
0
USA
Its normal.. at the point that the fans started ticking on my first trinity, i adjusted my wire lengths based off feedback provided by others, and now i get xell in 2 minutes or less on all the boots ive attempted on a few consoles. If you havent tried yet, try using a thicker wire, like the red or black from a coolrunner on cpu rst and or post out points.
 

ChrisShUK

Junior Member
Dec 7, 2011
15
0
If you havent tried yet, try using a thicker wire, like the red or black from a coolrunner on cpu rst and or post out points.
Yeah i have tried a thicker wire and still no luck, i just got it to work by the looks of things. The green light stopped and the fan speed increased however, i had nothing show in JR. I unplugged the power, waited 30 secs and tried again and now i'm back where i started with the constant green light and fan clicking :mad2:

---------- Post added at 11:24 ---------- Previous post was at 11:20 ----------

If you do intend on trying thicker wire, you must use a the POST_FIX QSB.
I am using this, trying all the points for CPU_RST but 32 seems to be the one everybody has the most success with, also trying 0 & 1 for the POST_OUT. Nothing wants to work *sigh* :facepalm:
 

Martin C

VIP Member
Jan 10, 2004
35,981
0
Scotland, UK
www.team-xecuter.com
Why would you solder anything to POST_OUT_0?

You can solder the wire for CPU_RST directly to the QSB point itself. Use the standard blue wire for this, cut to the shortest length you can manage.

POST_OUT_1 should be about 70cm of wire.
 

ChrisShUK

Junior Member
Dec 7, 2011
15
0
Why would you solder anything to POST_OUT_0?
Good question, it made the DGX light up :D lol. I dunno, it made the green light on the DGX flash so i went with it as another variable to try. After trying with this for so long i just get confused with all the info i read and what to try where.

Just setting up again as you have suggested, will return. . .

---------- Post added at 11:58 ---------- Previous post was at 11:49 ----------

When I got the fan ticking I just continually unplugged the console, plugged it back in and tried again. After 5 or 6 times doing that, I got my key.
Did you wait the 30's as per the FAQS or just out and straight back in again?

Still the same with Martin's suggestion.
 

ChrisShUK

Junior Member
Dec 7, 2011
15
0
I waited for a short time, I'm sure it wasn't 30 seconds, but I would say around 10 seconds or so each time.
Crazy! I did that and after a few try's the fan sped up to 100% then i got a red light. Then tried it again, got a very loud clicking from the fan (I presume this is the clicking they talk about in the FAQS) followed a few seconds later by another blast from the fan at 100%.

Unplugged and now back to normal :crazy:
 

ChrisShUK

Junior Member
Dec 7, 2011
15
0
Just keep trying. Make sure all of your solder joints are solid, and just be patient and keep trying. At first I didn't even get the fan ticking, so I just walked away and came back on the next day to change my wire lengths and try again. I began to get discouraged, but just remained persistent in trying over and over and over until it finally gave me results. It's a pretty good feeling when the key finally shows up in the COM monitor.
I will, after so long it becomes more of a challenge and as you say such a good feeling with it cracks.

A friend at work has just called to say he has found a 10pf cap on a old PCB. Its off to work we go, and on my week off too!!
 

socalbill

VIP Member
Nov 30, 2011
356
0
Valhalla
try this setup, I have never failed in getting the key in 20+ consoles now, with the same exact setup, box to box

5" cpu_rst wire direct to FT4R2 (cut from blue phat wire)
blue wire from slim wire pack soldered to green wire from phat wire pack, direct to post out
green, brown E F wires from slim pack

if still nothing, try soldering the full length yellow wire from the phat pack in between the green/blue post out wire

try to make sure there is no electromagnetic interference from fluorescent lighting, soldering iron, computer psu, etc near the chip...or block it with the top cover from the slim, it has a built in EMI shield
 
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ChrisShUK

Junior Member
Dec 7, 2011
15
0
try this setup, I have never failed in getting the key in 20+ consoles now, with the same exact setup, box to box

5" cpu_rst wire direct to FT4R2 (cut from blue phat wire)
blue wire from slim wire pack soldered to green wire from phat wire pack, direct to post out
green, brown E F wires from slim pack

if still nothing, try soldering the full length yellow wire from the phat pack in between the green/blue post out wire

try to make sure there is no electromagnetic interference from fluorescent lighting, soldering iron, computer psu, etc near the chip...or block it with the top cover from the slim, it has a built in EMI shield

Trying this setup now and will let you know. The cap my friend found did not work but i have it here and will keep trying with and without it.

Do any of you guys think that maybe the damage i did to the DGX is causing the problems now? i cant see it myself because the experience is the same now as it was before.
 

ChrisShUK

Junior Member
Dec 7, 2011
15
0
Now i got this. . .


[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K3yMC3k6-2w"]Bad time? - YouTube[/ame]


Bad time?
 

ChrisShUK

Junior Member
Dec 7, 2011
15
0
I can now replicate what happens in the above video every time. Happens after about 3-6 minutes. Can anybody tell me if this is a step in the right direction, or am i now going backwards lol.
 

ChrisShUK

Junior Member
Dec 7, 2011
15
0
That is the fans "ticking" that it talks about in the FAQ. Just try different length post out wires now. 55cm seems to be the sweet spot.
Thank you for your response. I have just finished tinkering with it, checking to making sure i can replicate things when i want them to. Will carry on like you say tomorrow, with different cable lengths. As for me i have been on this for about 13 hours today, its 4am and my bed time lol.