Trouble with 2.6 lpc

[lonewolf_6]

I Have pulled apart my xbox, and the lpc port is soldered shut?!?!?!?!?!???
What should I do?
I am thinking of desoldering the holes, is this a good idea?
Thanks in advance!
L_6

 

[Big_Whoopin]

If you have done a version check you should find that this is a 1.0 Xbox, as far as I know all 1.0 mobos had the LPC solder holes filled in. If you are good with a soldering iron you can remove the solder with some desolder braid or a suction tool and use the LPC header pins. If you are not careful with this it is an easy way to destroy traces around the LPC header and either increase the difficulty of modding your Xbox or FRAG the mobo completely. For many it will be easier to do a wire install since the solder is already there. Think about your skills and go with the route that fits them.

-Whoopin'

 

[lonewolf_6]

on a wire install, were do I put the little purple board, the reset eject wire is what my tutorial calls it, but I don't know where to put it in a wire install, it only shows the pin header in the tut.
(sorry if i'm a litttle frantic about this, but I've been wanting to get it done for quite some time now.)
Thanks!!

 

[Big_Whoopin]

You mean the LPC rebuild board? http://www.themodchip.com/PhotoDetails.asp?ShowDESC=N&ProductCode=LPC If that isn't what you are talking about I'd recommend you show us the tutorial you are using, if it is available online.

If the purple board is the LPC rebuild I linked to above, unless your Xbox is a 1.6 you don't need it. If it is a 1.6 and you are doing a wire install you have two options. You can solder to all the individual points or you can rebuild the LPC with the purple board and then use the normal LPC pinout (i.e. a 1.0-1.5 wire install) for the wires, except for the red wire. This still needs to go to the alternate 5v source. There is a wire install sticky in this forum, look in there for more info. I've just put in a post at the end which has the images missing from the first post of the thread.

-Whoopin'

 

[lonewolf_6]

OK, thanks
I guess that is the LPC board, If I am running on 1.0 I don't need it then?
also, on 1.0 do I hook up the red wire? and what about the D0/LAN/HDD cable?
'preciate the help alot
L_6

 

[DJBOOBY]

read the guide
http://teamxecuter.entryhost.com/x3ce.pdf

 

[Big_Whoopin]

The red wire that is a part of the plug with the other colored wires, yes. That needs to be soldered to the LPC, the spot is indicated in the wire install pictures. If you want you can shorten it to the lenght of the other wires for a more tidy install but you don't need to. The separate red wire that is all by itself with a small plug on the end is for 1.6 installs only.

-Whoopin'

 

[lonewolf_6]

OK, so I think that I really F***ed it up now.
Here are some pics of what I think is probably causing the FRAGGING:
The First one is the D0 point on the back of the board.
The second one is another D0 point, or at least that is what the tutorial on modchipsource.com said.
As you can see, they are pretty burnt up, and I can't get the grey wire attached to either one.
Any ideas?
or should I sell it on eBay as broken and get a 1.6 for a pin header install.
Open to any Ideas
L_6

 

[theblujuggalo]

YEEEE OWWWW!!!!!

What are you soldering with?!?!?!
And WHY oh WHY DID YOU MESS WITH BOTH D0'S?!?!?!

 

[lonewolf_6]

YEEEE OWWWW!!!!!

Yah, pretty much so

What are you soldering with?!?!?!

using a 35v soldering iron, which later broke (see pic).

And WHY oh WHY DID YOU MESS WITH BOTH D0'S?!?!?!

Thought I could be more succsesful with the second one.
I don't know if this means anything, but when the xbox trys to boot, It goes on,off,on,off, then stays on. Each time that it goes on it causes some sort of interferance with the fm radio channels. then it FRAGs.
L_6

 

[lonewolf_6]

I wonder if this would fix it?
http://www.xbox-scene.com/articles/fix-trace-nosolder.php
Opinions welcome!!!
L_6

 

[Big_Whoopin]

If you've broken a trace, this could fix it up. I would suggest the same directions but use something that is more geared to fine electronics rather than defogger repair. (I think the defog repair may also have a higher resistance so it heats and defogs the window... at least the one time I used this stuff before on my car the patched areas defogged first.) If you can find it in your area, try and pick up a conductive pen. I don't remember if it was the conductive pen or the flux dispensing/removal pens but someone here (Catalyst maybe?) had good results with products from this company- http://www.techspray.com/trace.htm The conductive pen may have enough control that masking is not necessary.

Before doing any of that I would try and test the traces with a multimeter (if you don't have one you can pick one up at RadioShack for $20, maybe find one for less on ebay. recommended to get one with "audible continuity test" to make testing easier) to try and confirm if they are indeed broken, if you can't tell for sure with just your eye. Don't want to do any more work than you have to.

Unfortunately I'm not sure what to offer for help on the D0 that won't take solder.

-Whoopin'

 

[lonewolf_6]

YUK.
I didn't want it to be this hard!
I have an offer from a friend who has seen the damage to it to buy it for $40. Would that be the way to go? (pull out the chip and everything with it first.)

 

[lonewolf_6]

Yeah, I looked at the traces and I can definitly tell that traces are missing. there is actually a small crater in the mobo there! I am going to sell it and try again.
FYI: I will be keeping track of my next adventure in an xbox on www.4acesclan.tk
so check our site out if you are interested.

 

[upinsmoke]

35 watts is a little extreme you can trace the do and see if you can find another point to use