Turning off X360 won't turn off Wireless Controller after Falcon JTAG

[tr4ckerz]

Hello,

Although I'm newly registered user here I know about this place a long time ago, reading it through and through almost every day now. First of all I would like to THANKS to all the Xecuter Team for their work and products which is simply fantastic. Big thanks goes also to everyone from first line support for their help and knowledge! I bought several products made by Xecuter in the past, starting from their X360 opening tool, through CK3 Lite, CK3 Pro with Probe and finally NAND-X with few QSB JTAG kits. Although I had some troubles while using them, I allways succeed at the end because I always found the same issue that users had here and that were always solved by your excellent guides/answers.

Now I have JTAG'd three consoles for me and friend. His was Xenon and Falcon, mine was Falcon. His both consoles went great (using QSB and in case of Falcon using JTAG Kit #2). For my Falcon I used JTAG Kit #5 and I succeed as well (had E79 problem but after some reading I solved it by setting the resistor to 470 Ohm). Freeboot and FSD working just fine on all of them now.

I decided to bought one more console for me and him (just for backup). I found two candidates so I spent some money and tried to JTAG them. Unfortunately, one of them, JASPER 512M from August 2009 with Dashboard 7363 is not JTAGable (CB=6750). Well, sh*t happens. The second one is Falcon, CB=5770, same as my first one, so I did the same work. Again I choosed QSB method and JTAG Kit #5 for some reason (looks better, I do not like wiring and there is no possibility to remove motherboard from the case without unsoldering yellow wire from the ROL panel).

I have to say that all the solder work has been done by my colleague from work since I am not able to solder. From my point of view their job is excellent (I can post some photos later if needed). Well, I did the same work like with my first Falcon and Freeboot is successfuly installed. Following is the problem:

I noticed that when I turn OFF the console it won't turn OFF my wireless controller (holding Guide button -> Turn OFF the console). Upper left light from the quadrant on the controller stays ON. In this state, turning ON the console using this controller is not possible. Turning ON the console using power button went into 3 RRoD, subcode 0020. I tried repeatedly turning the console OFF and ON using the power button, same situation. When I removed the battery from the Wireless Controller and wait a while, then I am able to turn the console ON and Freeboot is working as it should. I put the controller ON, can use it with no problem, unless I put the console OFF. Then the situation repeats.

I tried again to disassemble whole console, soften the MB, GPU and CPU screws a little, at the end removed motherboard from the case, tried the resistor parameters on JTAG Kit #5 to all positions (0-330-470), nothing has help. So I tried to write my original NAND back to see if this could help. After writing it I put both switches on JTAG Kit #5 to position OFF and in this state my Falcon won't power up at all (using standard power button). Then I moved ON/OFF switch on JTAG Kit #5 to position ON, tried different resistor parameters and in this state the console boot up well and I have back my original dashboard 7371 (when I think about it, what is the reason to have two switches on JTAG Kit #5 that could be set to position OFF?). OK, but when I put my wireless controller ON, synchronize it with the console and try to turn the console OFF (again using Guide button on the controller), it again turns OFF console only and controller stays ON. In this state, when I turn the console ON using standard power button, I am getting 3 RRoD like in the situation above (have not tried to check subcode but I suppose it is the same 0020 like before). Again, I can boot up normaly only when I took away batteries from my controller, wait a while and then pressing power button on the console.

At this stage I am out of any idea and strongly believe that there is something that could help me (hoping nothing has blew up on my console).


My appologies for such long post but I wanted to say "THANKS" somehow and tried to describe the problem as detailed as possible. And please, excuse my english.

Thank you.

 

[manwithoutname]

Not familiar with situation like this but here's a suggestion. Write back your original NAND. Turn off all JTAG settings and disconnect the JTAG wires plug from J2D2 point) now does your console function normal including the wireless controller?

Upon your answer we can move to the next stage ...

 

[tr4ckerz]

Thank you for your reply manwithoutname.

At the moment I have my original NAND back as I wrote. I also tried to completely turn OFF the JTAG (both switches of JTAG Kit #5 to OFF position). Remember there are no wires at all since I used QSB boards (for both reading/writing NAND and for JTAG). Since for JTAG I used Kit #5 which is soldered on the bottom side of the motherboard (with no wires), the only way for me to "completely" remove JTAG part is to unsolder this QSB board.

As I said I am not good at soldering so if this will be really needed I would have to bring my X360 mobo at work to my colleagues to let them this job done.

I forgot to mention that I have also tried to replace RF/ROL panel with the one from Jasper with no luck.

 

[manwithoutname]

I guess that rules the question of removing the QSB and just have to rely on the switch off position. There are 2 off switches to disable the jumper part on the J2D2 and the connection between the J2D2 and DB1F1 & ROL if I'm not mistaken.

As removing the QSB is not possible without too much trouble, if you do have a multimeter then test the points between DB1F1 & ROL point and the contact points on the QSB with both the switches positions on and off and see if the continuity is non existent when at off position.

 

[tr4ckerz]

By the QSB contact points you mean points on Jtag Kit #5 board?

Here is some pics of QSB solder in case it could help find the problem.

 

[manwithoutname]

Contact points between the points in the 1st picture and the 3rd one. The 2nd Picture is for the NAND reading and is not related in here.

 

[tr4ckerz]

Isn't the QSB from the 1st picture also for NAND-X reading/writing? At least wires from NAND-X goes to QSB from pic. 1 and pic. 2 while reading/writing.

Please clarify you previous suggestion. Although I do not have JTAG method from this picture
http://team-xecuter.com/jtag/JTAG_KIT2.jpg
therefore I did not solder to DB1F1 point nor to the ROL panel, should I still test there something with multimeter?

 

[manwithoutname]

Sorry my mistake, I got confused between the 1st picture as it looks very close to the same point of the JTAG connections on top of the board. I hardly use the QSB and only if someone asked me to install them as I use wiring and didoes on my all personal JTAG's ...

I'll try and draw up some diagrams on some pictures and attach shortly.

 

[tr4ckerz]

Ah thank you mate. Took me a little time to understand what did you mean. Now that explains.

Update on my issue: Besides removing the batteries from my wireless controller to start up my console without RRoD after previously turned OFF with upper left green light ON on the controller, also when I unplug the power cord from the console it works. Until the orange light of the power supply is ON, the upper left green light of the controller is also ON. But few seconds after I unplug the power cord the orange light of the power supply goes OFF and at exact the same moment all 4 lights of the wireless controller start flashing (like it lost synchronization). Then I can start up the console normal way. Seems like when the console is under voltage it can't cut off connection with the controller).

I just tried to plug the wire to the controller and connect it to the console through USB port (using Microsoft Play and Charge Kit). With this connection shutting off the console shuts down the controller as well and also starting console with controller is working.

This really drives me crazy :-(

 

[M AzeeM K]

Ah thank you mate. Took me a little time to understand what did you mean. Now that explains.

Update on my issue: Besides removing the batteries from my wireless controller to start up my console without RRoD after previously turned OFF with upper left green light ON on the controller, also when I unplug the power cord from the console it works. Until the orange light of the power supply is ON, the upper left green light of the controller is also ON. But few seconds after I unplug the power cord the orange light of the power supply goes OFF and at exact the same moment all 4 lights of the wireless controller start flashing (like it lost synchronization). Then I can start up the console normal way. Seems like when the console is under voltage it can't cut off connection with the controller).

I just tried to plug the wire to the controller and connect it to the console through USB port (using Microsoft Play and Charge Kit). With this connection shutting off the console shuts down the controller as well and also starting console with controller is working.

This really drives me crazy :-(

After reading your first post, I kind of figured it out that you were using the Plug & Play Kit.

Here's a quote from my Alternate JTAG SMC/Points Tutorial:http://team-xecuter.com/forums/showthread.php?t=55189

As a side note, don't turn off the Xbox360 while charging your controller using the Plug & Play Kit because the Xbox360 will try to stay in a semi-on condition, but due to the JTAG, it will restart instead. Therefore, after Jtagging your console, if you want to change the battery of your controller, do it while you're using the Xbox360 or leave the Xbox360 turned on. Simple as that.

 

[tr4ckerz]

I just tried it once when I wrote my last comment. Never did it before and will never do it again. Just wanted to see if acting of the controller with wire is the same as wireless.

I hope this try did not broke somehow my JTAG or console :-/

 

[manwithoutname]

So what Azeem recommended in his tutorial did or did not work for you?

 

[M AzeeM K]

Yeah, did it work for you ?

 

[tr4ckerz]

I never followed that tutorial because if I understand it right its for those who have JTAG method using Kit #2 with red and yellow wiring, or for those who messed up while soldering to some points and their JTAG is not working properly.

As my JTAG itself working perfectly (at least the reading original NAND, writing Xell, installing FreeBoot and running FSD) I never thought that tutorial could help me solve the issue with wireless controller.

If my thoughts are wrong and I still should follow that tutorial, it would mean to remove my JTAG Kit #5 from the bottom of the motherboard, try to get Kit #2 somewhere and try method described in that tutorial.

Please correct me if I'm wrong.


///EDIT: It seems like this guy had the same/similiar problem. But he did not use QSB's JTAG method so I dont know how should I apply his working solution to myself.

http://www.xboxhacker.org/index.php?topic=14099.0

 

[M AzeeM K]

I never followed that tutorial because if I understand it right its for those who have JTAG method using Kit #2 with red and yellow wiring, or for those who messed up while soldering to some points and their JTAG is not working properly.

As my JTAG itself working perfectly (at least the reading original NAND, writing Xell, installing FreeBoot and running FSD) I never thought that tutorial could help me solve the issue with wireless controller.

If my thoughts are wrong and I still should follow that tutorial, it would mean to remove my JTAG Kit #5 from the bottom of the motherboard, try to get Kit #2 somewhere and try method described in that tutorial.

Please correct me if I'm wrong.


///EDIT: It seems like this guy had the same/similiar problem. But he did not use QSB's JTAG method so I dont know how should I apply his working solution to myself.

http://www.xboxhacker.org/index.php?topic=14099.0

The Xbox360 staying on or restarting itself or showing other weird behavior when Plug & Play is connected to a controller does not only apply to my tutorial. It applies to all of the Xboxes that have been Jtagged.

By the way, in my tutorial, the wires aren't connected to the ROL, so the thread you mentioned above has nothing really to do with my tutorial or any other tutorial with relation to your problem.

 

[tr4ckerz]

I understand now the rule of using Play&Charge kit on JTAG'd console, thanks. But as I explained in my very first post the behaviour between my fresh JTAG'd console and controller happening wirelessly. I tried to use Play&Charge kit just yesterday to see if the behaviour could change somehow. I did it once, never used it before on this Falcon.

From what I get from the link to your tutorial, one end of the red wire is still connected to the JTAG soldered on the top of the motherboard. I do not have such method of JTAG, my QSB is soldered on the bottom side. Is your suggestion to completely remove my JTAG from the bottom, buy myself the QSB which is to be soldered on the top and try that method? Would this solve my issue?

 

[manwithoutname]

The alternative point is well recommended and to be honest I used it as standard method for all HDMI jtag's. But the question I'm interested in finding is why this board is giving you problems when it's done exactly in the same way as your other board!!!

 

[tr4ckerz]

But the question I'm interested in finding is why this board is giving you problems when it's done exactly in the same way as your other board!!!

Tell me about it. I would like to know that answer too.

Both Falcons based on Arcade model of Xbox, both manufactured same month and year (only 2 days difference between them), both CB 5770, used same method of JTAGing. But the one still causing me headache.

I thought it might be caused by precision of soldering or something but it seems like "same" boards are never exactly the same and as I see can be slightly different.

If there is no other suggestion I will let the guy who did soldering for me to remove the JTAG part tomorrow and see if the problem dissapear.

 

[M AzeeM K]

You mean to say that if you have the Plug & Play Kit connected to the controller and charging it on the first Jtagged Falcon, nothing weird happens when you try to turn off the console?

 

[tr4ckerz]

You mean to say that if you have the Plug & Play Kit connected to the controller and charging it on the first Jtagged Falcon, nothing weird happens when you try to turn off the console?

No, nothing like that. I never used Play&Charge Kit on my first Jtagged Falcon nor on my second one (excluding above mentioned one try).

To make it clear, my issue with controller on the second Falcon happening wirelessly. For explanation, the situation on my first Jtagged Falcon is:

1. holding Guide button on my wireless controller (connected wirelessly)
2. choosing option "Turn Off Console"
3. console turns OFF and also wireless controler turns OFF
4. next time I can start the console by pressing Guide button on the controller


Situation on the second Jtagged Falcon:

1. same as above
2. same as above
3. console turns OFF BUT wireless controler stays ON (upper left light of the Guide button lights green)
4. starting console using wireless controller is not possible in this state. What worse, when I try to start console using standard power button on the console, getting RRoD. To prevent that, I have to remove battery from the controller or unplug power cord from the power source until orange light went OFF, then I can start console by using power button as usual without problem. However, starting up console using wireless controller is still not possible.


Maybe my english suc*s but I hope this makes the issue more clear