Turning off X360 won't turn off Wireless Controller after Falcon JTAG

[M AzeeM K]

No, nothing like that. I never used Play&Charge Kit on my first Jtagged Falcon nor on my second one (excluding above mentioned one try).

To make it clear, my issue with controller on the second Falcon happening wirelessly. For explanation, the situation on my first Jtagged Falcon is:

1. holding Guide button on my wireless controller (connected wirelessly)
2. choosing option "Turn Off Console"
3. console turns OFF and also wireless controler turns OFF
4. next time I can start the console by pressing Guide button on the controller


Situation on the second Jtagged Falcon:

1. same as above
2. same as above
3. console turns OFF BUT wireless controler stays ON (upper left light of the Guide button lights green)
4. starting console using wireless controller is not possible in this state. What worse, when I try to start console using standard power button on the console, getting RRoD. To prevent that, I have to remove battery from the controller or unplug power cord from the power source until orange light went OFF, then I can start console by using power button as usual without problem. However, starting up console using wireless controller is still not possible.


Maybe my english suc*s but I hope this makes the issue more clear

Well, that's Weird

Although I am not completely convinced that it is related to the specific Jtag wiring that you have, but it may as well be happening because of it.

Anyways, I think I will leave this matter up to manwithoutname now. Have fun solving this Mystery manwithoutname

 

[tr4ckerz]

So here is a small update.

Today I had a spoke with the guy who did a soldering for me. I tried to explain him this issue and we both agreed, yes, it is weird. I have found another X360 console being sold through auction server over here. After communication with the seller I have found that it is a new and sealed Falcon with MFR date 2008-03-02. He did not want to turn the console ON for checking dashboard version just to keep the console new and unopened. Regarding the MFR date I suppose the dashobard should not be over version 2.0.7371.0 so I have bought it.

Since I still have one complete JTAG kit from the Jasper that was not JTAGable (mentioned in my very first post here), and this kit contains exact the same parts as this JTAGed Falcon we talking about (2x QSB's for reading NAND and 1x QSB JTAG Kit #5), I will let the guy to do his solder works again on this new console. Before he will solder the JTAG part, he will do some measurement on the motherboard and the same measurements he will do after solder of JTAG part (just to see what parameters has changed). If I get lucky and get this new console working without ANY problems (just like my first Falcon), then the guy will compare parameters by measuring both this "non-working" and the new console (please do not ask me why am I not going to perform these measurements on my first working Falcon - I just do not want to disassemble it since it is WORKING console and I am affraid of some errors in case I do that

I expect the new console arrive on wednesday/thursday and I will keep this topic updated with new information gained.

Until that any suggestions or help are very welcome and also thank you both guys for spending your time with me.

 

[tr4ckerz]

OK I'm bringing an update:

I've got the console mentioned in my last post, good to go to be JTAG'd (CB: 5766). The same guy did the soldering for me and as before his work was perfect. Reading NAND without problem, no bad blocks, five copies of NAND all matched, writing Xell went well so did writing of FreeBoot. So now I'm in front of JTAG'd Falcon with working FreeBoot and hey - wireless controller is working as it should.

So that guy did some measurement with multimeter on this Falcon and the one I'm having trouble with and found nothing wrong (tried the solder, tried value of resistor set to different positions, both Falcons acts the same). He told me he would't risk to measure the voltage though as it could easily send the console to the trash in case of some mistake.

The last thing we are going to test tomorrow is to remove the JTAG part to see if the wireless controller get working. If this wouldn't help then I'm out of any other idea.

Both tested Falcons are soldered same way using QSB's and JTAG Kit #5 on bottom of the motherboard.


Note to M AzeeM K: I've found this your post in other topic a few minutes ago:

Remember to try different settings on the JTAG QSB, preferably without the resistor. Before a month ago, there was an Xbox360 which won't boot XeLL and would only boot to XBR. But after sometime, I found out that if the JTAG QSB switch was set on to use the 330/470 resistor, XeLL won't boot. But if it was set on not to use the resistor, it would boot XeLL with the eject button.

My experience with three Falcons vs Xell is exact different. With resistor set to 0 I almost never been able to boot Xell (E79, in case of this newest Falcon even RRoD). My first working Falcon only worked with resistor set to 470, the 2nd one (the one I've trouble with) was working on every value 0/330/470 and this newest one just on value of 330 (value set to 0 got me RRoD, value of 470 I didn't tried).

Please take this note just to let the others (who could get into same situation like me) know.

 

[M AzeeM K]

OK I'm bringing an update:

I've got the console mentioned in my last post, good to go to be JTAG'd (CB: 5766). The same guy did the soldering for me and as before his work was perfect. Reading NAND without problem, no bad blocks, five copies of NAND all matched, writing Xell went well so did writing of FreeBoot. So now I'm in front of JTAG'd Falcon with working FreeBoot and hey - wireless controller is working as it should.

So that guy did some measurement with multimeter on this Falcon and the one I'm having trouble with and found nothing wrong (tried the solder, tried value of resistor set to different positions, both Falcons acts the same). He told me he would't risk to measure the voltage though as it could easily send the console to the trash in case of some mistake.

The last thing we are going to test tomorrow is to remove the JTAG part to see if the wireless controller get working. If this wouldn't help then I'm out of any other idea.

Both tested Falcons are soldered same way using QSB's and JTAG Kit #5 on bottom of the motherboard.


Note to M AzeeM K: I've found this your post in other topic a few minutes ago:



My experience with three Falcons vs Xell is exact different. With resistor set to 0 I almost never been able to boot Xell (E79, in case of this newest Falcon even RRoD). My first working Falcon only worked with resistor set to 470, the 2nd one (the one I've trouble with) was working on every value 0/330/470 and this newest one just on value of 330 (value set to 0 got me RRoD, value of 470 I didn't tried).

Please take this note just to let the others (who could get into same situation like me) know.

What I said above was regarding Alternate JTAG/SMC points. What you are using are the default JTAG points, and the default JTAG points tend to sometime work only when the JTAG QSB is set on to use a resistor. If you had used my Alternate JTAG Tutorial, then you would have seen that on any setting you may have the JTAG QSB, the Xbox360 would still boot. But in some cases, putting the JTAG QSB to use the resistor caused the problem of only XBR booting, while XeLL did not boot. In this case, if you set the JTAG QSB to not use a resistor, XeLL would sometimes boot. Therefore, I said what you have quoted above.

 

[tr4ckerz]

OK mate, that explains. Just wanted to share my experience

btw, is seting the resistor either to value of 330/470 exhausting somehow my console or shorting its life? Or why is the prefer method to set it to 0?

btw if you or anyone else having any idea of my wireless controller issue, I would really appreciate it

 

[M AzeeM K]

OK mate, that explains. Just wanted to share my experience

btw, is seting the resistor either to value of 330/470 exhausting somehow my console or shorting its life? Or why is the prefer method to set it to 0?

btw if you or anyone else having any idea of my wireless controller issue, I would really appreciate it

No, having the setting on to use the resistor will not shorten the life of your console neither will exhaust it.

There is actually no preferred JTAG QSB setting. You should use the setting which works for you.

 

[tr4ckerz]

Thanks mate. This will cause my sleeping even better

And if I will get the wireless controller issue solved I will be the happiest one here

 

[tr4ckerz]

Can anyone from local gurus please help me with identifying of what kind and type of element is that on my Jtag Kit #5 highlighted with the red rectangle?

The guys discovered an unexpected value on there while performing some measurement with multimeter and by comparing with the same point on my other Falcon which is working perfectly.

According to them it MIGHT be the reason of my wireless controller issue. My opinion is that the chances are very slim since JTAG itself is working well, but at least some hope. If they will know the kind and type of that element they said they could replace it easily for me, otherwise I will have to buy whole new JTAG Kit to see if it could help. However they will try soldering that point once more tomorrow so it could also help.

Thanks for help.

P.S. Meanwhile I've got new and unused Jasper 512M, input data were MFR date 2009-07-02 and dashboard 2.0.7363. I wanted to try if 14 days difference in MFR date after so called "Cut off" does really matter plus I wanted to own at least one JTAG'd Jasper. The result is - yes, it seems that even 14 days does matter, CB=6750

Well, I will flash the Liteon in it and will sell it

 

[manwithoutname]

I'm sure that is some sort of a resistor pictured in your attachment, not sure as I never used that kit before. But wouldn't be easier just to replace the whole kit (they only cost £6.99) from modtraders!!!!

If you'd asked me mate, I wouldn't bother touch any post June 2009 console for JTAG. Most state that the cut off date was 15th June 2009 but even me thinks that's pushing it. I already had 2 Elites comes in with July 2009 MFR date and I knew they were no good but I dumped the NAND anyhow as I did their drives so thought might as well since they are already open. CB was the same as the one you got.

 

[tr4ckerz]

Well on the top side of that element is number 41. Hmm, maybe diode? Some of the designers of this board should know

I know of price of £6,99 for new one, but in my case + £5,99 postage while the price for that single element in my local store is under £1

Anyway, the update is as follows: I let the guy completely unsolder JTAG part and issue with wireless controller has gone, means turning OFF console also turns OFF the wireless controller.

The guy realized that JTAG part (Kit #5) seems normal and working but he found a problem with resistor located straight on the X360 motherboard in position where it was soldered together with that element on JTAG Kit #5. It seems like this resistor has been affected somehow while soldering, now it is fixed, but this guy do not recommend to solder to this point again to prevent damage of this part.

Since I have not found nowhere if there is an alternative point for soldering out of this resistor (using the same JTAG Kit #5), I have bought JTAG Kit #2 instead yesterday, its on its way to me at the moment. I will keep remaining Kit #5 as an spare part for other Falcons or for further use. Now I expect that after soldering of new JTAG will be this Falcon working as it should.

I will post the final result after its done.


P.S. So for those using JTAG Kit #5 and experiencing the same problem with their wireless controller, be VERY careful soldering on that damn point. Even that "invisible" problem could cause troubles with wireless controller as described.

 

[tr4ckerz]

So here is the last and final update.

After application of delivered Jtag Kit #2 the issue with controller is GONE, Xbox booted at the first try and everything seems working flawlessly.

So for those experiencing issues with wireless controler in case of use of Jtag #5, read this topic thoroughly

At the end I attach the pictures of current solder of QSB's. I am always amazed by the work done by this guy.

Thanks too much to those who tried to help me here and those who made this possible, including excellent, clear and working tutorials. Respect guys!

 

[M AzeeM K]

Glad its working fine now

 

[rmaniac]

I would like to add that I also had a problem with the same symptoms. I had mutalated the jtag qsb so I was unsure where the issue was. One of the last things that happend before I got it working was the yellow wire came out of it's "jacket". I did not realise there was a diode in that jacket and just soldered the yellow wire right to the front panel. Last night I was looking for install info on the #5 board and happened to read about alt install points, it said something about the diode end and I realised. Lucky for me the black bit was still sitting on my desk so I stripped off the covering, soldered the yellow wire back onto it and re-heat-shrunk it. I attached the diode back to the front panel and now all is well. So if someone else makes the same stupid mistake I did and has this issue, there's your answer. Put the diode back and it will work again.