If you look, it looks like L5A1 is cracked all over, you should think about replacing both.
It only looks like that because of its current owner's previous attempt using flux paste to try and pull it off. He didn't test it, he just thought it was the one getting hot. I'll pull it and measure it.
If it gets hot you should messure the output and make sure its not short on that rail. You could measure resistance against GND when its not powered, and if it does seem to be good you should measure it when its powered and make sure no component on that rails shorts it when active.
I'll be honest, that is gibberish to me (right now). I despise console repairing. Only because I do it for free as long as I'm not spending hours pulling and testing pieces. Everything I have learned has been through building my collection and repairing most of the consoles. My first was my Sega CD and have been toying with repairing every since. I'm smart, can read (which I am going to have to do a lot of to understand what you just said lol), and have a very steady hand. At this stage, I have no business claiming that I know what I am doing. But alas, I will have to learn. The problem is that I rewired my work's 24 tvs to CAT5 video with a ****** switcher and now everyone thinks I am Yoda since I taught them how to control the tvs with their cell phones. It wasn't even anything hard or special. See the pic? Yeah, I'm that guy. We had a professional company install an LED sign for us and it was installed wrong. guess who was outside in the winter playing with nanostations. Lol had no idea what I was doing, but read up on it and figured it out.
I walked into work yesterday and was given 10 "things" to "repair" from xboxes to cameras to iphones. The people I work with can't afford to send items out from Alaska and pay for a pro to fix them or else I would tell them to do that. I hate trace soldering only because it would just have people up here asking me to do more. And again, I refuse to charge for labor. And I am the only guy in town really that will RGH consoles for people and not screw it up (knock on wood). Anyway, thanks for the reply. I guess I will go read up on where/what/values I should be testing on the board with my multimeter. BTW, the U5A1 tests at 1.28V when plugged in.
I did get the story on this while at work today. He had installed a CR3 (very cleanly BTW) and the power brick blinked orange when he turned it on. Everything was working fine until he did one final wire length adjustment and had flipped the cage upside down to set the board on. When he powered it on that time, the brick blinked orange and the CR3 red LED went off. I tested the CR3, and it is fine.
At any rate, if you don't mind "dumbing" what you said down a little, that would be awesome. I have lurked here for a while and posted from time to time and always get amazed at how many people toy with these expensive consoles. Even more amazed with everyone's knowledge right down to repairs like this. Half my collection wouldn't exist as "working" if it were not for forums like this where I could lurk around and read/learn what people do to fix the problems. My LaserActive and X-Eye would both not work if not for forums like this. I'll start googling what values I should be looking for. When you say "rail", do mean mean testing each point along the 3.3v standby line? Test the line from power plug to regulator?
Edit: It bleeped m.a.t.r.i.x.? Probably because of the RGH thing?
