ugh.. 3 red lights no xell, help?

[jaynvck]

hello, been at this install all day, Jasper 512, cr4 xl, demon. read the nand, got a match, switched to demon, wrote nand, created ecc, wrote ecc, hooked her up to the tv, turned her on and 3 red lights, wont turn on again. I switched it back on the demon to xbox and tried to turn on, but it didn't work. then I saw three red lights again, but nothing after that. no action on the screen. cr4 led is just constant red, no greens.

Console Type: JasperProgrammer Used: Demon
NAND Size: 512
Dashboard version: 2.0.16202
CB Version: 6754
Screenshot of NAND details from J-Runner: (attach an image to your post)
J-Runner log:
Tuesday, April 21, 2015 11:28:58 PM
J-Runner v0.3 Beta (7) Started

WARNING! - Your selected working directory already contains files!
You can view these files by using 'Show Working Folder' Button

Checking Files
Finished Checking Files
Initializing nanddump1.bin..
Jasper 512MB
Jtag Selected
Nand Initialization Finished
Glitch2 Selected
CR4 Selected
Comparing...Takes a while on big nands
Nands are the same

DEMON
Hardware : Demon Phat
Firmware : 1.4
Flash ID : 0x73AD Hynix (16MiB - Small block)
Flash Size : 0x400 blocks of 0x4200 bytes
Writing Nand
Done!
in 0:28 min:sec
Jasper 512MB Manually Selected
ECC created
DEMON
Hardware : Demon Phat
Firmware : 1.4
Flash ID : 0x73AD Hynix (16MiB - Small block)
Flash Size : 0x400 blocks of 0x4200 bytes
Writing Nand
Done!
in 0:02 min:sec




Was the console working before you started: Y
Do you get a green debug light appear on the CR4 XL chip every 4-5 seconds: N
How long is the light on for each time n/a

 

[Dadko]

What about stock nand?

 

[jaynvck]

What about stock nand?

not sure what you need, help me out?

 

[jaynvck]

here, sorry

 

[Bong420]

I normally do the RJTAG+ method not RGH2 but it looks like you raped point B on the JRP/Nandx/CR v3 pcb, the switch on your chip is set for slim and you are trying to glitch a phat. Did you change the DIP settings for the phat console? Also try writing back stock nand and remove the power to the chip and try to boot. If you get 3ROL on stock its probably bad soldering or a bridge or damage on the board somewhere. I would double check all your soldering on your demon too.

 

[jaynvck]

The switch is set to phat, caught that after the pics were taken.. Point b on v3 was done nice, the guys told me to move on, I didn't need the point any way. do the dips cause this? What should be the start setting?

 

[Krafter]

Looks to me like you damaged the STBY_CLK point. That's the point on the long end of the top QSB. Get a multimeter and measure resistance from the far side of R1 on the QSB and the resistor closest to the HANA. Should be 33 ohms.

 

[jaynvck]

Looks to me like you damaged the STBY_CLK point. That's the point on the long end of the top QSB. Get a multimeter and measure resistance from the far side of R1 on the QSB and the resistor closest to the HANA. Should be 33 ohms.

ok, so I get the r1 point (I think) but whats the hana? im sorry if I should know this..

also, since I never really wrote anything to the xbox, just the demon, shouldn't there be a wire I can unhook to just make sure she can run on her own stock? or maybe I should have wrote to the xbox? it was so unclear about the steps from the tuts, I may have done this wrong?

im sorry again for my noobieness, and really appreciate the help.. I know in the end its probably a soldering issue, (im no pro), OR I BLEW IT on the v3 qsb.. I am going to get a new solder point on my gun and try and freshen any suspect points up, but to be honest with the exception of r1 and maybe the yellow wire (connecting the cr4 to the back of the board) I don't know..

stay with me, I will try all your suggestions, I also have another jasper 16 I can start over on if I need to..

thanks

 

[Krafter]

The HANA is the square chip at the end of the QSB. If that point is damaged then the console will not power on until it is repaired.

Google STBY_CLK repair.

 

[jaynvck]

Looks to me like you damaged the STBY_CLK point. That's the point on the long end of the top QSB. Get a multimeter and measure resistance from the far side of R1 on the QSB and the resistor closest to the HANA. Should be 33 ohms.

by far side of r1, you mean the side of the resistor that is farthest away from HANA? and then to the end of the resistor (the end closest to HANA) that the pad I was soldering to connects to?

if I didn't hook up this point (R1), even though it looks blown I never ended up soldering it, would I still get (or should get) the same ohms reading?

I was told that its okay to not have connected. I will check it, just want to be sure im checking right.

Is there a way to test to see if I blew the mother board in that spot?

 

[Krafter]

However you do it, the point of this is to measure the resistance across the resistor at that solder point.

 

[jaynvck]

so here we go,

the resistor R4B24 gives me a reading of .5 ohms when tested on both sides of it.

from the pad C3B2? to BOTH sides of resistor R4B24 same thing, .5 ohms. .5 ohms

from both sides of the r1 resistor I get the same, .5 ohms.

from the r1 resistor to the mother board I get nothing (because its not connected to the mother board?)

did I get everything?

(my meter is analog, so if im not reading it right, its between the 1 and 0).

 

[jaynvck]

one more thing,

I checked the ohms between the two pads at R4B24 or the first pad and resistor (same thing) and I get ~3.5ohms.

 

[jaynvck]

maybe this helps,

I re-soldered the yellow wire to the motherboard @ FT6U7, and touched up the v3 qsb, turned it on (demon mode), and it fired up, fans on, for a few secs. the cr4 xl had a green solid, the front of the xbox was doing the green led normal thing, then it stopped. I switched it to xbox nand and it fired up, xbox logo on screen then red lights flashing in front, first two then 3. now I just get the three lights again. for both demon and xbox

?

 

[jaynvck]

The HANA is the square chip at the end of the QSB. If that point is damaged then the console will not power on until it is repaired.

Google STBY_CLK repair.

so I did it, soldered a resister to the two alternate points on the back for the stdby_clk repair, no change.

I resoldered all wires, no help.

any support? do you need more info?

is there something I can do that might fix like reprogram the demon or cr4? (I know its preprogrammed)

anyone?

 

[jaynvck]

new symptoms, no more red lights.

so I turned it on (im still trying to boot xell) and the xbox booted, the green light on the cr4 blinked every five seconds. it was great, except I wasn't near a tv. so I had to turn it off and unplug..

I brought it to the tv, it turned on fans run, but turned back off. no red lights, just a blinking green center light on xbox. then it wont turn on again till I unplug It and wait a sec.

xbox mode doesn't boot at all..

any suggestions?

 

[jaynvck]

not sure why im not getting any support here.. am I saying something wrong? im not sure... I have been trying for days with this, just need some direction. im trying what Im told to try..

right now I am at the point where this thing doesn't even turn on anymore, nothing. I plug it in and the red cr4 light comes on, demon blue lights come on and can be switched. I can program the demon, read nand, write the nand to the demon and write ecc. just nothing when I turn it on..

I bought a new multi meter because I think the old was was too old.. it wasn't reading ohms proper. so I rechecked. I have 25 ohms at the R4B24 resistor. the rest give me 33 ohms..

I have the stndby_clk repair done, I wired a resistor(100ohm 1/8v is all the shack had) to the points on the other side, left out the B wire(I thought it wasn't needed for the cr4).

I also fixed a bridge on the demon d0+d1, I tested for continuity between the two points and it was apparently bridged. Its all good now.

But still nothing in both xbox and demon mode. Yestarday I would get random action, 3 red lights, short boots and the fails, in both xbox and demon mode, etc. but now nothing.

Help would be appreciated, if anyone has ideas.

Maybe you guys could answer a few questions, too?
1 does the b wire need to be hooked up with my set up?
2 is there a way to disconnect a wire or two to see if it will run normal?
3 what does it mean for the xbox that I only get 25 ohms on the resistor?
4 is there a way with my multi meter to test the cr4 to see if it is functioning proper? or the v3 qsb?

5 am I screwed?
6 is there a secret trick way to remove qsbs safely off the motherboard (talking about the lines of qsb points)
7 can this all be done on a jasper 16mb (the cr4 demon install, I have another one) with the most recent live updates?


thanks guys for the help, sorry about the fun quiz..

 

[Krafter]

If it was me, I'd remove everything one at a time starting with the top QSB. All of your questions are irrelevant until you at least get it to power on. That said, I don't usually recommend people remove the QSBs (especially the Demon) because you can cause more damage. If you do decide to remove them then get a piece of wax paper and work it under each solder point as you heat it back up with the iron. It's a pain in the ass but it's the safest way of doing it.

Before anything, ensure that you have power on the Demon and all wire connections made.

Edit: if you do remove the top QSB, concentrate on the HAHA solder point. You could have a lifted or broken trace while the resistor is still good.

 

[jaynvck]

If I remove this top qsb and disconnect the cr4, should the Xbox run stock? (If its not broke, i never touched its nand, just to read)

 

[Krafter]

Yes as long as the Demon is switched to the retail side.

Stupid question. When attempting to power on, you are selecting the retail side right? And I don't remember if you've actually written to the Demon. If it's blank and set to boot from the Demon, that would cause a no power problem as well.