What's my next step to obtain CPU Key?

silentcell

Full Member
May 13, 2014
32
0
no you have the rdod same as rrod but its probably cpu_rst or stby_clk point ripped or any number of hardware missing from the board. i think its software really but im not sure, we need to see your j runner logs from when you 1st read the nand and when you created and wrote the ecc
This is from the first dump when I created and wrote the ECC the first time.

===================================================
Thursday, May 22, 2014 8:27:45 PM


J-Runner v0.3 Beta (4) Started




WARNING! - Your selected working directory already contains files!
You can view these files by using 'Show Working Folder' Button




Checking Files
Finished Checking Files
Corona 4GB Manually Selected
K:\
Reading from K:\ to J:\Victor\Saved Games\XBOX 360 MOD\MOD STUFF\J-Runner v03 (1) Core Pack\J-Runner\output\nanddump1.bin
Done!
in 0:07 min:sec
Initializing nanddump1.bin..
Corona 4GB
RGH2 Selected
Nand Initialization Finished
K:\
Reading from K:\ to J:\Victor\Saved Games\XBOX 360 MOD\MOD STUFF\J-Runner v03 (1) Core Pack\J-Runner\output\nanddump2.bin
Done!
in 0:07 min:sec
Comparing...
Can't check for bad blocks. No Spare data. Possibly Corona 4GB
Can't check for bad blocks. No Spare data. Possibly Corona 4GB
Nands are the same
K:\
Reading from K:\ to J:\Victor\Saved Games\XBOX 360 MOD\MOD STUFF\J-Runner v03 (1) Core Pack\J-Runner\output\nanddump3.bin
Done!
in 0:07 min:sec
Comparing...
Can't check for bad blocks. No Spare data. Possibly Corona 4GB
Can't check for bad blocks. No Spare data. Possibly Corona 4GB
Nands are the same
K:\
Reading from K:\ to J:\Victor\Saved Games\XBOX 360 MOD\MOD STUFF\J-Runner v03 (1) Core Pack\J-Runner\output\nanddump4.bin
Done!
in 0:07 min:sec
Comparing...
Can't check for bad blocks. No Spare data. Possibly Corona 4GB
Can't check for bad blocks. No Spare data. Possibly Corona 4GB
Nands are the same
* unpacking flash image, ....
Spare data NOT found
* found decrypted CD
* found XeLL binary, must be linked to 0x1c000000
* we found the following parts:
SMC: 2.5
CB_A: 13121
CB_B: 13121
CD (image): 12905
CD (decrypted): 9452
* checking required versions...
ok
* patching SMC...
Patching Corona version 2.5 SMC at offset 0x13B4
* Replacing CD...
* patching CB_B...
patchset for 13121 found, 5 patch(es)
* constructing new image...
* base size: 70000
* No separate recovery Xell available!
* Flash Layout:
0x0..0x1FF (0x200 bytes) Header
0x200..0x7FF (0x600 bytes) Padding
0x800..0x3FFF (0x3800 bytes) SMC
0x4000..0x7FFF (0x4000 bytes) Keyvault
0x8000..0x9AEF (0x1AF0 bytes) CB_A 13121
0x9AF0..0x1162F (0x7B40 bytes) CB_B 13121
0x11630..0x1762F (0x6000 bytes) CD 9452
0x17630..0xBFFFF (0xA89D0 bytes) Padding
0xC0000..0xFFFFF (0x40000 bytes) Xell (backup)
0x100000..0x13FFFF (0x40000 bytes) Xell (main)
NOT adding Spare Data
Done!
------------- Written into output\image_00000000.ecc


Writing to K:\ from J:\Victor\Saved Games\XBOX 360 MOD\MOD STUFF\J-Runner v03 (1) Core Pack\J-Runner\output\image_00000000.ecc
Done!
in 0:01:534 min:sec:ms
Initializing nanddump1.bin..
Corona 4GB
Nand Initialization Finished


===================================================
 

ablegepu

VIP Member
Jan 3, 2014
925
0
Alabama U.S
first make sure you have post out traces as john matthews pointed out. you need to carefully remove your heatsink if you have not already checked.
 

silentcell

Full Member
May 13, 2014
32
0
I have the post fix, but according to the guide, I shouldn't need it right?
DSC_5009.jpg
 
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ablegepu

VIP Member
Jan 3, 2014
925
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Alabama U.S
nope your good.. now check that post point i mentioned earlier, that might be bridged with the one next to it and while your at it if you can snap a good picture of the proto v2 chip and the headers ill take a look
 

silentcell

Full Member
May 13, 2014
32
0
im pretty sure he has a v2 because of the 4 gb nand r/w kit is the newer version but i didn't see the resistors there but its still a good idea to go ahead and check for post out

speaking of post out it looks like there may may be a bridge on the post points on the post qsb v3 at the quick solder points
3 & 5 i believe
Here's a better shot of the post qsb v3 for you to check out.

DSC_5012.jpg
 

ablegepu

VIP Member
Jan 3, 2014
925
0
Alabama U.S
post a good picture of the slim proto v2 please. maybe that will help us find something

and have you tried booting with any dips turned on if not start with 3
 
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silentcell

Full Member
May 13, 2014
32
0
nope your good.. now check that post point i mentioned earlier, that might be bridged with the one next to it and while your at it if you can snap a good picture of the proto v2 chip and the headers ill take a look
I feel like I'm about to get a "you're killing me smalls," but I wasn't sure what the "headers" were so I took a shot of the whole thing.DSC_5014.jpg
 

silentcell

Full Member
May 13, 2014
32
0
post a good picture of the slim proto v2 please. maybe that will help us find something

and have you tried booting with any dips turned on if not start with 3
I tried the recommended 3 and 8 and then just had 8 on. That's when I was able to have the system start up. I'll try to get a better solder flow as suggested and try just 3 and see where that takes me.
 

ablegepu

VIP Member
Jan 3, 2014
925
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Alabama U.S
i meant to say the j2c3 header which is where you solder the e and f and 5v but there should be no resistors to bridge on that console. if you wanna take a picture of it from the bottom side of it you can but i doubt it will matter. (you took a picture already but i couldn't see all the resistors on the bottom).

i would go ahead and flip dip 3 on and try to boot and count the glitches don't worry about trying to get cpu key through ip address because xell used to not show up on certain dashes but they fixed that and it should show up. it says to let it glitch 4 times then change the dip settings you may wind up having to change the voltage jumpers but for now just try dip 3 on and if that don't work try 4 then 5, 6, 1, 2. let each dip glitch 4 times (20 seconds). then try the next one. if the red light comes on on the rf module check the secondary error code (hold sync and press eject 4 times and count the lights each time you press eject). then let us know what you come up with.

YOU HAVE TO HAVE DIP 8 SET TO ON FOR CORONA
 

silentcell

Full Member
May 13, 2014
32
0
i meant to say the j2c3 header which is where you solder the e and f and 5v but there should be no resistors to bridge on that console. if you wanna take a picture of it from the bottom side of it you can but i doubt it will matter. (you took a picture already but i couldn't see all the resistors on the bottom).

i would go ahead and flip dip 3 on and try to boot and count the glitches don't worry about trying to get cpu key through ip address because xell used to not show up on certain dashes but they fixed that and it should show up. it says to let it glitch 4 times then change the dip settings you may wind up having to change the voltage jumpers but for now just try dip 3 on and if that don't work try 4 then 5, 6, 1, 2. let each dip glitch 4 times (20 seconds). then try the next one. if the red light comes on on the rf module check the seco
 
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ablegepu

VIP Member
Jan 3, 2014
925
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Alabama U.S
This is a picture of the sync button and yes the one one the rf module.
rf module.jpg
you will need to hook up the ribbon cable from faceplate to rf module so you can properly hit the eject button
 

silentcell

Full Member
May 13, 2014
32
0
I have no idea if it's just my screen or not, but my screen looks like it has half a post. I had some follow up questions in the reply above that are not showing up and I apologize if you've already seen them. Firstly, do I change the dip settings while it's starting up? And secondly when I hit the sync and eject button, to which lights are you referring to for me to count?
 

ablegepu

VIP Member
Jan 3, 2014
925
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Alabama U.S
should be the ring of lights i forgot to tell you when it goes red HOLD down the sync button then hit eject once and remember the number of GREEN lights that flash hit eject again and remember how many then again, then again. REMEMBER TO HOLD THE SYNC BUTTON THE WHOLE TIME. AND ITS A 4 DIGIT CODE SO HIT EJECT 4 TIMES AND REMEMBER THE NUMBER AFTER EACH EJECT PRESS
4 GREEN LIGHTS = 0
3 GREEN LIGHTS = 3
2 = 2
1 = 1

OOPS no just restart xbox then switch the dips
 
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ablegepu

VIP Member
Jan 3, 2014
925
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Alabama U.S
no problem you appear to have soldered everything correctly and done what we have asked. lots of people wont post pictures or j runner logs and they just stubborn. at least you are trying.

did you get the secondary error code
 
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silentcell

Full Member
May 13, 2014
32
0
So I've been messing around with the dip settings as suggested, and I'm not getting the red ring. For each setting though I just get a steady low fan speed with the green light flashing. On the Proto that is.
 

ablegepu

VIP Member
Jan 3, 2014
925
0
Alabama U.S
well thats good i guess no red dot. there is really nothing you can do on the software side until you get the cpu key then you can go back and extract the files from the ecc and make a retail nand while you have a chance, then you SAVE THE RETAIL NAND... lol... then you write a glitch image to the console. but you just need to keep trying until you get xell then you can fall back and sigh with relief. but next time if you get the red dot of death try to get the secondary error code and that will narrow down whether its a hardware or software problem. or just counting how long it takes the red dot to come up after the last glitch can help a little bit. have you tried different power settings yet with the jumper?