when the console glitches you will hear the fan slow down because you are sending something like a 20 nanosecond pulse to the cpu-rst line so of course its gonna sound a little weird but they all do. is the debug light staying on for over a second or is it just a quick flash and its gone because it should light up bright green for almost two seconds, if its a quick flash you could have a post_out short or cut. if you have a multimeter it cant hurt to do a continuity check on all the post_out quick solder points and the 4gb r/w kit as well
What's my next step to obtain CPU Key?
- Thread starter silentcell
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No, I haven't tried mucking around with the power settings yet. If that's the next step, then here we go. I'll look up the guide for that and get back if it changes anything (or doesn't). I'll also do one more run of the dip settings to see if the red ring comes back or not. Until then I suppose.... 
l
lMy fault. I want to make sure I get enough detail across as clearly and accurately as possible. I don't know if makes a difference not, but the fan doesn't speed up and slow down as if it's booting regularly. The fan simply spins as if a PC fan would in silent mode. It is a steady low spin. No noise, no speed up or down.
Also, in regards to the light, it is a short, pulsating green light that I get. I do have a multimeter because I read that I might need one to check this kind of stuff. I'll see if I can find a guide for that too and let you know what I find.
Again I have no idea if this info makes a difference or not, but there it is.
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i actually made a guide out of your pictures last night (i got bored) hang on ill upload
you need to set ohmmeter to diode check or continuance same thing (when you hold the probes together it will beep when you have it on the right settings)
if the light doesn't get very bright because its a quick flash (if you blink you wont see it at all) then yeah there might be a short i had one do that the other day with a cr3 lite and i moved the post-out wire up and away from the coils near the XCGPU while it was glitching and the light got bright and longer and then it booted 2 seconds later i think there was a short in the wire but i did have to solder it to the trace on top rather than the point on bottom because the guy ripped the pad. but if its a quick dull flash like mine was it WILL NOT BOOT. and looking at your soldering id say perfect especially for a beginner (if it wasn't good people would be in here hounding you about it) BUT iv'e had near perfect soldering before with shorts under the qsb's so i think wire installs are better because you don' have to guess whats shorting under the qsb's. I PRAY THAT YOU FIND A SHORT ON YOUR POST QSB...
you need to set ohmmeter to diode check or continuance same thing (when you hold the probes together it will beep when you have it on the right settings)
if the light doesn't get very bright because its a quick flash (if you blink you wont see it at all) then yeah there might be a short i had one do that the other day with a cr3 lite and i moved the post-out wire up and away from the coils near the XCGPU while it was glitching and the light got bright and longer and then it booted 2 seconds later i think there was a short in the wire but i did have to solder it to the trace on top rather than the point on bottom because the guy ripped the pad. but if its a quick dull flash like mine was it WILL NOT BOOT. and looking at your soldering id say perfect especially for a beginner (if it wasn't good people would be in here hounding you about it) BUT iv'e had near perfect soldering before with shorts under the qsb's so i think wire installs are better because you don' have to guess whats shorting under the qsb's. I PRAY THAT YOU FIND A SHORT ON YOUR POST QSB...
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No not really your just checking to see if the solder joint is touching the next one or if that ones touching the one beside it or the next one.
if you have the beeping multimeter put the leads on 1 and the one next to it if it beeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeps then you have 2 solder joints shorting
if you have the beeping multimeter put the leads on 1 and the one next to it if it beeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeps then you have 2 solder joints shorting
no problem. here at tx we all a bunch of douche bags deep down but we strive for excellence
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Ok, so I did the check on the points like you asked, and this is what I got for each point that I checked.
I think there might be bridging on the points of the Nand R/W kit that read -.000 because (and bear with me on this) when I put the leads on the points it gives me -.2##, -.0##, and then it stops at -.000. It's just a cheap RadioShack multimeter so no fancy "beeping" occurred if indeed it is a bridged point. I put the two leads together just to see what it would give me and it looked like the same reading the meter gave me when I put them to the points. Also, It doesn't look like I'm getting anything from the the one that's labeled .OL. The QCB V3 seemed to be fine. I think anyways. But, just out of curiosity, if something were initially wrong with the points of the R/W QSB how would I have gotten the ECC file in the first place?
I think there might be bridging on the points of the Nand R/W kit that read -.000 because (and bear with me on this) when I put the leads on the points it gives me -.2##, -.0##, and then it stops at -.000. It's just a cheap RadioShack multimeter so no fancy "beeping" occurred if indeed it is a bridged point. I put the two leads together just to see what it would give me and it looked like the same reading the meter gave me when I put them to the points. Also, It doesn't look like I'm getting anything from the the one that's labeled .OL. The QCB V3 seemed to be fine. I think anyways. But, just out of curiosity, if something were initially wrong with the points of the R/W QSB how would I have gotten the ECC file in the first place?
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i dont think you would have gotten 4 nand dumps or an ecc file if it was bridged but i could be wrong you need to set the meter to ohms then put the leads together and you should get 0.4 or somewhere around that area. whatever you get is what you should expect to see when you test the solder joints and there is a bridge. i would try 2k ohms so if the two points have over 2000 ohm of resistance between them it might jump up a little but it should immediately fall back to 0 (out of range). i have the exact same console here without the nand r/w qsb on my desk i just measured the entire u1d1 header and on 2 points next to each other i got 27,000 ohms all the rest were 99k and above. it might be a little different with the qsb attached but they shouldn't be less than 9000 ohms. when you test 2 point always go back and recheck. when you are done set your meter to 20k or 200k then measure again to see how high they go. if it says 0.L or stays dead on 0 that means out of range. or infinite resistance (no solder bridge) if its 0.1 - 0.5 ohms then you have a dead short.
THE TOP SYMBOL IS A RESISTOR
THIS IS THE SYMBOL FOR OHMS
OHMS IS THE MEASURE OF RESISTANCE
THE TOP SYMBOL IS A RESISTOR
THIS IS THE SYMBOL FOR OHMS
OHMS IS THE MEASURE OF RESISTANCESo. After taking a short hiatus from this project, I thought I might take an unconventional approach to this part of the instructions. Instead of prattling on about what readings I got for which points, I thought it be best to just show you via video. I hope this is allowed. The link is below and I hope it gives some greater insight to what might be going on. Thanks.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OdLijuOjydU