X2.6 Problem (I think its a bad switch please verify)

pyrobecks

Noob Account
May 23, 2003
7
0
Okay...

So I have modded about 10 XBOX's in my time. I know what I'm doing and I know how to solder.

XBOX: V 1.6 (not sure if it is a 1.6b or even if that matters in this case.. if it does, how do I tell whether it is a 1.6 or 1.6b)
Chip: Xecuter 2.6
Install Method: Currently Wire (I had it installed with Pin Header but got this same issue so I redid it)

Problem: Whenever I boot the XBOX with the chip on it gives me one of the following results: 1) Frags 2) Light is orange for a second then blinks green (then turns solid green) and the screen remains black 3) Boots to regular MS Dash.

When I boot with the chip disabled everything runs fine.

So, I think that most likely I have a bad switch. I say this because the Chip On/Off switch is kind of finicky. If I jiggle it a tinny bit the chip will turn off even though it is in the ON possition (if I push the ON/OFF switch all the way over in the ON position the chip turns off, no lights on the switch nor the chip are illuminated). Another reason I think it is a bad switch is because when I set the LED ON/OFF switch to OFF, the LED's are on and vice versa.

I have not checked all the solder points with a multimeter just because I am sure they are all good, also because when I was using the Pin header it did the same exact thing. (I unsoldered everything and then attempted the wire install which resulted in the same problem).

I have spent about 6 hours soldering and resoldering and have basically resolved to the source of the problem being the switch. If not the switch then it is the modchip but I doubt that.

If anyone has any suggestions your help would be greatly appriciated.
 

Big_Whoopin

VIP Member
Jan 29, 2004
811
0
SE Pennsylvania, USA
The LED switch is labeled backwards. This is a known problem. I hope that if Xecuter ever makes another version of the chip, and with the 360 looming so close and original Xbox manufacturing about to (or already?) cease this is unlikely, that they either slide the trace for the LED on/off switch to the other post of the SPDT switch or just change the print. The enable/disable LED will always be on regardless of the position of the LED switch; only the remainder of the LEDs are controlled by this switch. This does not include the blue LED on the chip, this is on when enabled and off when disabled.

While what you describe for the boot results does not necessarily mean a bad switch, I think what you've seen with the enable/disable switch is a bad sign. With the switch in the enabled position there should be no reason for the LEDs to turn off. If you've got a multimeter you can use the 2.6CE switch schematic I've created to trace the circuits and do some testing. I've just now finally added a link to it in my sig. With the switch in the enabled position you should have continuity between pins 2 and 4 (enable signal) and pins 5 and 6 (5v return to chip board). If disabled there should be no continuity on those pins. In both cases there is a circuit from 5 to 4 (power for enable/disable LED) but because of the LED it is not as easy to test out.

-Whoopin'