X3-1.6: Switch not lit, only MS Dash

ozzyo99

Junior Member
Jan 13, 2005
16
0
Hey all,

Right firstly ive read abour 3 pages of threads regarding problems, some of which have perhaps helped but i thought id better ask this anyway, so bear with me :)

Right installed X3 LPC rebuild on a 1.6 (ive done a dozen mods-first time on a 1.6 though) and the chip installed fine, i went to boot and the external switch wasn't lit and i think only 1 blue light, but need to re-check that. On turning on i only get the usual MS Dash.

Is this problem solely down to the 3.3v on pin 9 and 15?
How can i counter this if so?
Is there any other likely suspect apart from a bad joint on pin 9/15?

Thanks a lot for the help in advance, much obliged.
 

nospmohtkcin

VIP Member
Nov 2, 2004
324
0
PEI, Canada
we can't help you untill you tell us that FOR SURE theres only 1 light on the chip lit. after that tell us if its the 5v or the 3.3v
 

ozzyo99

Junior Member
Jan 13, 2005
16
0
Ok buddy,

Thanks a lot for the reply, i shall check back this afternoon afer i worked out which is on/off.

Regards.
 

jonrees69

VIP Member
I'd just like to say it doesnt matter which one is off so much, coz they BOTH need to be on for the chip to work !!

Check, check and check again the soldering. When you find nothing, check it again with a magnifying glass !!! lol

Seriously, that's all it is - you need TWO blue's ON the chip, and the front 'X' to be lit up in Blue too - then you're cooking on gas.

Good luck.

J
 

ozzyo99

Junior Member
Jan 13, 2005
16
0
Hey guys, really appreciating the feedback - for some reason i have never managed to encounter this problem before.

My findings are that my 5v led is lit fine, however the 3.3v is not. Clearly it must be my soldering (slap on wrist) but could it be *any* point on the PCB rebuild/LPC or would it be isolated only too pin 9/15?

Cheers very much :)

**edit**forgot to add its the X3 CE, not that it makes any difference barring the nicer 5v.
 

sb122606

VIP Member
Nov 26, 2004
876
0
England
You got it...pins 9 & 15 bad solder..

if they r bad then theres a good chance for others too check em all.

Clear the solder from 15 and get you iron "wetted" (wipe it and apply a little solder to the tip..apply so it touches both pad & pin and apply the solder to the pin..
u should see solder get sucked into the hole...it's no good just melting the solder onto your iron tip..in effect just dripping molten solder onto the joint..

it's a balance though...heat for too long and u could damage the header/m board ...not enuff heat and the solder will not flow
 

ozzyo99

Junior Member
Jan 13, 2005
16
0
Ok resoldered what i thought looked like dodgy Pin 15, now when i try and boot its starting up with still only 5v LED, however it FRAGS and on the third attempt actually boots to MS Dash. I tried backup, but as the 3.3v still that isnt going to help.

Still dodgy soldering or?

*edit* Cheers mate, i cant believe ive developed bad soldering :( its always been ok - ill re-check. I did have my doubts the PCB rebuild connectivity, i.e how good of a contact its making with the spots, but it appears to be sufficiently soldered.
 
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sb122606

VIP Member
Nov 26, 2004
876
0
England
If you have a meter measure voltage on pin 15 with x3 removed.

still no 3.3V then soldering. Pin 15 supply voltage comes in on the component side of the board ..just above pin 15 on this side u will see a capacitor labelled C7D1 or C7D2 (depending on board version)...the LHS of this is the 3.3v rail...
measure continuity between that and pin 15.

If 3.3V gets killed with x3 connected then disconnect switch bank at the x3 and retry...(actually just try that first to rule it out)..it could be wires to switch snagged under game ports or bent pins ..

last scenario not v likely but worth a stab if u really r confident that the soldering is good.
 

ozzyo99

Junior Member
Jan 13, 2005
16
0
Hey mate,

After i resoldered and it wasn't working still, i de-soldered and then repositioned the rebuilt LPC worked nicely as when i resoldered again i now have my lovely 3.3v back that i was having bad dreams about last night :)

Moral of the story:
That you guys in this forum are fantastic so thumbs upto you, and always ensure top quality lighting (the sun :p) before doing any mod. I've learnt a lot over the last month or two and hopefully ill be able to give something back to people like myself.

Anyway without getting tearful, thanks a lot chaps for all your help. Casebook closed (for now).

If you managed to get this topic via a search because you too had no 3.3V LED, then please check the following:

1. Inspect pin 15, which is top right if the AV connection is turned away from you (i.e the way it sits in the box), and is opposite the pin missing by default.

2. Undo your switch connecter on the chip, is the light lit now?

3. Check all your soldering, the LPC rebuild can be tricky is not aligned 100%, so before you solder a thing position it optimally and tape it down.

4. Search for other such problems, and failing that make a thread people are willing to help - but they cant help you with bad soldering, so make sure its tip top before pressing new thread.

Cheerio.
 

sb122606

VIP Member
Nov 26, 2004
876
0
England
Excellent!!!

Already helping by posting your success back into the forum..
get flashed and happy xboxing.
 

jonrees69

VIP Member
Job's a Good 'un !!

Yes, well done for sticking at it and not just saying, "My soldering 100% !!!" as it obviously wasnt ..... lol

Let this be a lesson to all you noobs who think the same !! Remember, 9/10 it IS the soldering, nothing more nothing less. Especially with the LPC rebuild here, which is a LITTLE more tricky I guess.

Well done Ozzy ... welcome to the club !!

dont forget to get the PLUS version of the BIOS and use the .BIN which is INSIDE the 1959 .RAR file - some people have Days (!!!) looking for the plus version only to be told this info !

J

Edit: I love success stories - brings a tear to my eye !! :eek:
 
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ozzyo99

Junior Member
Jan 13, 2005
16
0
Ye i know about the differing BIOS thanks, trouble is with this rebuild board because of the slightly raised edge it can be a pain to know that there is a 100% contact there, with the pins its pretty much yes/no but the rebuild PCB can bring a maybe into that equation.

Therefore if you pins look ok, they probably are and your problem could well be the contacts on the rebuild - least with wires the solder has 'got' it or it hasn't i guess.

To be honest i prefer to steer clear from the term "noob" as everybody has to start somewhere, and in doing so its natural to make common mistakes (they are common for a reason afterall). Its when the community helps the new people that we can grow as a commune - although i do agree that its irritating when people post witohut any research what so ever.

The other thing looking along the X3 install support forum are the titles of peoples threads, please dont use "HELP INSTALL PROBLEM" or "HELP ME!!!" as that doesnt describe your issue.

Thank you for the welcome, cheers.
 
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