Having a big problem with the X3. Everything worked fine for a few weeks. The other day I tapped the power button and static shocked it. Now the xbox won't turn off unless i unplug it. If i plug it in to turn it on, the panel is always red and the chip is always disabled. So i removed the power/eject adapter and wire the yellow power/eject cables straight to the xbox like original. I thought this made the chip always boot enabled which would be fine. In this setup, the xbox is not always on. I hit the power button and the chip is still always disabled. Ive checked all my solder points. I looked at everything and i don't see any leads burned out or anything. Anyone have any ideas? Please?
X3 always disabled
- Thread starter jacobbeach
- Start date
I would set all the power/eject wiring back to its original state and go from there. Chances of you shocking your xbox good enough to fry anything by touching a plastic button are pretty much zero. Maybe if you got hit by 3 bolts of lighting simultaneously while touching it you would cause some damage, but otherwise it's not going to happen.
The same thing happened to me. I hit the power button and I got a shock. After that, I had to replace the chip. Sorry Man, I know it sucks.
Yup, it can happen. I fried my video card a couple of months ago while installing it back into PC, got a shock, and it was fried.
Yeah, this happened to me as of last night, had the chip in for awhile, ran like a champ, go to turn it off get zapped and now the X3 is disabled, nice way to waste $70, and I am sure there is no way of getting the thing fixed, so guess I will try and talk my wife into letting me buy a new one (Slim chance in hell). Perhaps the developers should look at putting some kind of shielding between the power button and chip, somehow the jolt is going all the way down the line and knocking something off...
Anyone have any clue if this can be fixed?
Anyone have any clue if this can be fixed?
How about touching the radiator or something grounded, before you touch your xbox, so you're not all charged up ??!
I've static-killed a couple, it's a bitch, but it happens if your not careful, and that nylon carpet doesn't help !! Might aswell walk around an electricity sub-station, rubbing a balloon on your head, then go play xbox !!
D
I've static-killed a couple, it's a bitch, but it happens if your not careful, and that nylon carpet doesn't help !! Might aswell walk around an electricity sub-station, rubbing a balloon on your head, then go play xbox !!
D
Your right about grounding out to something first, I also got my humidifier out to help knock the edge off. It always seems to make a big difference.
I was thinking of taking some thin, thin wire and wrapping it around just outside the power button on the inside and connecting it to case ground. Then I realized it wouldn't make a damn bit of difference since M$ didn't inlcude a ground lead for the power supply. So I will probably get a small piece of metal and stick it right under the power button area and run a lead from it to a ground lead in the wall outlet. Just touch it before you power on or off for extra safety. If I think of a logical way to implement it around the power button I will let you know.
I was also thinking of drilling the center of the power button out and putting small metal rod in it and then wiring it to a ground lead and just modify the end of the power cable (I.E. cut if off and add a three prong) and just have a wire tapped down the original wire. and run in a vent in the back or something. Had ought to create a path of least resistance to a ground and grab any stray static voltage that may exist. It probably wouldn't hurt to ground the chassis out through a similar method either.
I was thinking of taking some thin, thin wire and wrapping it around just outside the power button on the inside and connecting it to case ground. Then I realized it wouldn't make a damn bit of difference since M$ didn't inlcude a ground lead for the power supply. So I will probably get a small piece of metal and stick it right under the power button area and run a lead from it to a ground lead in the wall outlet. Just touch it before you power on or off for extra safety. If I think of a logical way to implement it around the power button I will let you know.
I was also thinking of drilling the center of the power button out and putting small metal rod in it and then wiring it to a ground lead and just modify the end of the power cable (I.E. cut if off and add a three prong) and just have a wire tapped down the original wire. and run in a vent in the back or something. Had ought to create a path of least resistance to a ground and grab any stray static voltage that may exist. It probably wouldn't hurt to ground the chassis out through a similar method either.
Ohh, and it kills the Mod Chip, not the Xbox, my guess is that there is a few fail safes to arrest voltage jumps seen in static shocks.
Heaven knows I have been damn near electrocuted by my controller a few times and I always get blased by the power button problem, but never had a problem till the mod chip was involved.
Heaven knows I have been damn near electrocuted by my controller a few times and I always get blased by the power button problem, but never had a problem till the mod chip was involved.
Stop wearing nylon slippers and shuffling your feet. On a more serious note did you feel a static transfer or could it have been a short in the power button area.
No I felt a static transfer, but its not a rare occasion, I always get zapped by the damn power button on the xbox. I was just surprised that it traced all the way back to the X3 chip. But as I said, its all a bunch of faults stacked onto one. Lack of a ground for the Xbox is an extreme one.
Is VIA chipset required for the MRA hack W/Light On 93450c?
Its been awhile since I've flashed my 360 and the last time I did it, it required a Via chipset for the SATA connection. I've read through the Jungleflash tutorial, but it doesn't mention a VIA chipset requirement. I'm going to be doing the MRA hack and wondered if the VIA chipset is still required.
Its been awhile since I've flashed my 360 and the last time I did it, it required a Via chipset for the SATA connection. I've read through the Jungleflash tutorial, but it doesn't mention a VIA chipset requirement. I'm going to be doing the MRA hack and wondered if the VIA chipset is still required.
Re: Is VIA chipset required for the MRA hack W/Light On 9345
not required as such - many onboard chipsets do work! but use primary port and ensure raid/achi is turned off in bios
not required as such - many onboard chipsets do work! but use primary port and ensure raid/achi is turned off in bios