X3 wire method voltages

[Vol4Ever]

Xbox FRAG'ing, but blue X on remote control panel does light up. V1.0 Xbox.

Using the following diagrams:

http://home.comcast.net/~x3guide/InstallationFAQ.htm for wire color guide

http://www.xbox-scene.com/articles/lpc-diag.php for pin name labeling


Getting the following voltages with a multimeter:

PIN # - LABEL - WIRE COLOR - MULTIMETER READING (if applicable)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
P1 - LClk - black - 1.5V
P2 - Gnd - brown - 0V
P3 - LFrame - nothing connected
P4 - doesn't exist
P5 - Rst - nothing connected
P6 - 5.0V - red - reading 0V (probably the problem)
P7 - Lad3 - orange - 3.3V
P8 - Lad2 - yellow - 3.3V
P9 - 3.3V - green - 3.3V
P10 - Lad1 - blue - 3.3V
P11 - Lad0 - purple - 3.3V
P12 - ? - nothing connected
P13 - ? - grey - 3.3V
P14 - ? - white - 3.3V
P15 - 3.3V - nothing connected
P16 - ? - nothing connected

Question:
Where can I hardwire to get 5.0V for red P6? I think this will solve the problem.

Thanks!

Vol

 

[Vol4Ever]

UPDATE: This morning, I was able to fix the 5.0V problem. Now all points on the chip read correct voltages, and both chip LEDs light up.

On remote bank control panel, blue HD light comes on but the X itself does not light up. Eject button flashes ORANGE and green. Hard drive and DVD both spool up. I'll be looking in the FAQ's in the background, but does anyone have any quick tips in the meantime?

~Vol

UPDATE2: ORANGE/GREEN = no A/V cable. DUH!! The box was just sitting on my workbench while I tinkered with it. OK. Now light stays solid green, but blue X on panel still doesn't light up . . .

 

[Vol4Ever]

I fully closed up the Xbox as a test. The chip is in place, but it's not hijacking the boot process. The standard green flubber logo booted up regardless of power/eject button sequence, and the blue X on the control panel still doesn't light.

Would the blue X light up if D0 wasn't soldered correctly? That's where I plan to go next . . .

 

[tonyb25]

I see that your LCLK (pin 1) measures to 1.5V. That's where I'm stuck too. According to this tutorial the LCLK is only supposed to have 0.2V. That may be where your problem lies. If you resolve the LCLK problem please let me know what you did.

 

[adam.giles]

Would the blue X light up if D0 wasn't soldered correctly? That's where I plan to go next . . .

If D0 isn't connected, the X panel should light up red, and Xbox should boot to M$ dash

 

[Ordy]

LCLK read 1.64 on my digital meter, I've seen other postings saying the same. Mine works so I don't think pin 1 is the problem. You can do a continuity check from D0 on the bottom to the D0 on the top of the board where the Xapt3r shows D0 goes. I tested from the grey wire on the connector to that D0. If your not getting 5v on pin 6 it will FRAG.

 

[halo2master1150]

also i had to hardwire a couple of my pins to my chip and now it works. if u have x3 then u can jump the wire to the bottom on the corrected pin point and solder it on. i had to do this because of numerous pin probs. my chip was a factory defect but now it works. now if i could only find my post about my bios prob. and controler prob.