X3CE! Need some pro-solderer's help with 1.6 rebuild!

[neverpuffins]

hey guys. i am brand new to the mod-chip biz, and would like the most in-depth help i can get, to assure i don't waste my box.

phew....here we go. please bear with me.
just got down to work on my Xecuter3CE w/PCB rebuild for my 1.6 box.

i have a 25-watt Wall Lenk iron with the L25FT(fine tip). i'm hoping that's not too high of a wattage.

my hands are a little shaky, and i'm real worried about trashing my box, but i'm trying to keep my cool.
i accidentally connected two pins on the header with a little solder, and i am without a desoldering wick. i know i need one before i start over. any ideas on where to find one? home depot, ace hardware, and wal-mart all were of no help. also, is there any "homemade" way to remove solder?

one thing i need to know is the average amount of time it SHOULD take to properly heat the track/pins for allowing the solder to melt. it seemed to be taking much too long for the solder to melt properly, or at all...and this problem caused me to apply the solder improperly, as well as in too large of an amount, which caused the joining of solder on two adjacent pins
i am using .032 diameter lead free electical solder. approximately how long a length of solder should be applied to complete the pin headers and D0 points, respectively? and those teeny d0 points
i also need to know exactly what to press the solder to when applying: the pin, the track, or the iron? also, at what angle?
and which should i remove from the job first, the solder or the iron, and how quickly? it seems removing the iron quickly is the key do getting a smooth rounded joint as opposed to a pointy one.
basically if someone could give me "the completely moronic step-by-step guide to applying solder so that you get those extra-small, fancy, shiny cones and not those large, messy shapeless blobs", i would be eternally grateful.

i also began to see a little discoloration where i had some trouble heating a pin. (near where it says "C7R4" on the mobo) i would hope the little transistor or whatever nearby isn't extremely sensitive? one tutorial pic of a completed pin-header install showed quite a bit of melting discoloration all around the instal, so am i to assume this is normal?

also, which way do you guys prefer for installing the 1.6 LPC rebuild board: soldering all the header pins, then easing on the pcb board; or soldering the first seven, then fitting the pcb and soldering the last 10 pins?

if you can't tell i'd really like exact descriptions, as the MANY soldering techniques, Xecuter3 install guides, manuals and PCB rebuild tutorials i've read (all the way through, mind you) simply haven't informed my clumsy ass of the proper technical information (only after removing my mobo did i notice my soldering iron tips were too large! i only came across ONE random tutorial that mentioned the near-microscopic size of the lead points.) i know a lot of this stuff is common sense/"figure it out on your own" type-stuff to some/most of you, but i personally would really like the direct logistics of what i have to do to not mess this baby up. i've read many reviews on the X3 mentioning the simplicity of the install, but it's proved to be a handful.

thanks so much in advance, as i look forward to hearing from some tech-savvy modchip veterans.

Mike

 

[neverpuffins]

sorry guys...reposted because i needed to add a question or two, but the time limit for editing posts expired. >

hey guys. i am brand new to the mod-chip biz, and would like the most in-depth help i can get, to assure i don't waste my box.

phew....here we go. please bear with me.
just got down to work on my Xecuter3CE w/PCB rebuild for my 1.6 box.

i have a 25-watt Wall Lenk iron with the L25FT(fine tip). i'm hoping that's not too high of a wattage.

my hands are a little shaky, and i'm real worried about trashing my box, but i'm trying to keep my cool.
i accidentally connected two pins on the header with a little solder, and i am without a desoldering wick. i know i need one before i start over. any ideas on where to find one? home depot, ace hardware, and wal-mart all were of no help. also, is there any "homemade" way to remove solder?

so from all the tutorials i read, i would assume that i should place the iron tip at where the track meets the pin and hold it for a few seconds, then apply a small amount of solder to the iron, allowing it to flow onto the track.
one thing i need to know is the average amount of time it SHOULD take to properly heat the track/pins for allowing the solder to melt. it seemed to be taking much too long for the solder to melt properly, or at all...and this problem caused me to apply the solder improperly, as well as in too large of an amount, which caused the joining of solder on two adjacent pins.
i am using .032 diameter lead free electical solder. approximately how long a length of solder should be applied to complete the pin headers and D0 points, respectively?

i also need to know exactly what to press the solder to when applying: the pin, the track, or the iron? and at what angle? from the side, top, or diagonally?
and which should i remove from the job first, the solder or the iron, and how quickly? it seems removing the iron quickly is the key do getting a smooth rounded joint as opposed to a pointy one.

even with the fine electrical solder and the pencil tip, it still feels like my tools are too big for the work that needs to be done, but all the tutorials suggest exactly what i have! it must be my technique that is the problem here.
basically if someone could give me "the completely moronic step-by-step guide to applying solder so that you get those extra-small, fancy, shiny cones you see in the tutorial pictures and not those large, messy shapeless blobs", i would be eternally grateful.

i also began to see a little discoloration where i had some trouble heating a pin. (near where it says "C7R4" on the mobo) i would hope the little transistor or whatever nearby isn't extremely sensitive? one tutorial pic of a completed pin-header install showed quite a bit of melting discoloration all around the instal, so am i to assume this is normal?

also, which way do you guys prefer for installing the 1.6 LPC rebuild board: soldering all the header pins, then easing on the pcb board; or soldering the first seven, then fitting the pcb and soldering the last 10 pins?

finally, concerning "tinning" the iron, how much solder would be used for this, and how much of the tip needs to be tinned. maybe my lack off tinning the iron lead to my problems heating the board and the solder flowing on the board?

if you can't tell i'd really like exact descriptions, as the MANY soldering techniques, Xecuter3 install guides, manuals and PCB rebuild tutorials i've read (all the way through, mind you) simply haven't informed my clumsy ass of the proper technical information (only after removing my mobo did i notice my soldering iron tips were too large! i only came across ONE random tutorial that mentioned the near-microscopic size of the lead points.) i know a lot of this stuff is common sense/"figure it out on your own" type-stuff to some/most of you, but i personally would really like the direct logistics of what i have to do to not mess this baby up. i've read many reviews on the X3 mentioning the simplicity of the install, but it's proved to be a handful.

thanks so much in advance, as i look forward to hearing from some tech-savvy modchip veterans.

Mike

P.S. i understand some of this could be solved with some simple practice with random components on an empty board, but where would i acquire these? before i began work on this chip, i ripped open an old remote control and fooled arould with melting some connections here and there, but without an empty board, it's not like i can practice...

 

[neverpuffins]

ok, so after more reading, i've come to the realizations:
1. i have to go to radio shack for a 15watt soldering PENCIL and a desoldering wick/braid
2. my 25 watt iron being held onto the motherboard for about 20 seconds was REALLY not good for it, though the damage seems non-critical. pray for me.

 

[sb122606]

Hi Mike..welcome to team xecuter.

Jesus man u should be a novelist or something...thats is a post!!
I will try to answer but some what abbreviated ..please anyone elaborate

ok first don't be nervous have some confidence in your solder techniques.
some advice..
get a smaller iron ..Antex have 15W and a huge selection of tips..25W is a bit too big for this

tinning..
get a damp sponge . resin cored solder and obvious your iron.
as he iron heats apply solder to all surfaces of the tip...let the solder build to a blob on the end of the iron then tap off the excess and wipe quickly on the sponge..(do not let the iron cool by applying to long on the sponge"..apply solder agian and wipe.

what u should have is a nice silvered finish when u wipe the iron on the sponge.

all the wires supplied with the x3 r pre-tinned..any wires u use should be tinned before application to the m/board. you should take care if using stranded wire that u twist it b4 tinning and leave no "whiskers".

As far as soldering the header its a matter of some care and diligence...
the iron should be "wetted" first before u begin soldering a joint .( wipe iron then apply a v small amount of solder to the iron tip ) .
Apply the iron to both the pin and the pad and then apply your solder to the pin...if u wetted the iron then heat is transfered easily to the pin and m/b...what u should see is solder get sucked into the hole around the pin..
many people simply melt solder to the iron and basically drip molten solder onto the joint...

wipe the iron and wet before attempting the next joint.

Discolouration (English spelling) around components is probably due to the flux...i doubt u could cause any burn type discolouration witth an iron (unless u use a blow torch)...if it bothers u flux can be cleaned away with a toothbrush dipped in a solvent such as acetone.

Solder "bridges" r best removed using a solder pump which will suck molten solder up into a tube..
solder wick especially on very small tracks n pads can be tricky..the problem is most people tend to "glue" the wick to the pad and when they pull it away from the board they take the track/pad with it..
the key here is remember that the solder wick is a big piece of metal that will "sink" heat away v quickly..
u need to keep your iron applied to the wick whilst pulling it away from the m/board..otherwise the result is the wick will rapidly cool the molten solder and fix the wick to the pad...result is a "glue" to the pad as i described above.

just remember that solder is a molten metal and it needs to flow ...if it hits a surface thats too cool it will solidify by contact but not necessaruly make a good electrical connection.

in practical terms on a 1.6 xbox make sure u get good solder joints on the header pins especially pin 15.(3.3V and can be trickier than the rest as the supply rail is component side..make sure u see solder suck into the hole and all will be good) and 13 & 14 ..(no video after flashing problems).

on the small solder points away from the header just b careful..these r delicate copper tracks ..good prep of the wire and solder point will give success.

I cant say much more really ...u have to give it a go .

 

[sb122606]

Doh! just seen your 3rd post .

We can fix it ..what point has damage?
maybe we can find an alternate?

 

[neverpuffins]

your help was tremendous, as was my post. hehe
every forum i've ever been a member of is flabbergasted by my post length.
sorry, guys.

i believe by the looks of it, it very well may be the flux i'm seeing that looks like a melted motherboard
...and "wetting" the iron is most definitely my issue that caused this little mishap.
i'm going to radioshack tomorrow to buy the soldering pencil(third one in two days, dammit)
..hopefully they'll have an inexpensive solder sucker, as the wick sounds much too risky for these delicate micro-electronics.

tomorrow will tell the story.

if i did mess up a track, then i'm sure i'll return for help. that's amazing (yet logical) that you can find an alternate wiring method or fix the track if you mess it up. you guys really know yer sh*t. much props to all y'all.

specially good ol sb here, who responded with the quickness.

thanks again.

 

[sb122606]

OK ...i'll make sure i'm off line tomorrow ..LOL
not sure i'm ready for another installment of war and peace ;-)

Cheers Mike ..get your iron and if u think there maybe some damage to the M/B get a cheap and cheerful multimeter JIC. (good enuff for continuity and low voltage measurements)

TTFN

 

[neverpuffins]

hopin' the mobo's fine. practicing with some random resistors on a blank pc board, beforehand. got my solder sucker at radioshack today to fix those botched pins, as well as an anti-shock bracelet.
i couldn't locate a "pencil" iron anywhere locally, so i bought the stock radioshack 15-watt iron. i must say i'm still a tad dissapointed about the size of the tip. it's smaller than what i was working with before, but not by much. i havent seen any close up pics of tips for a "pencil" iron, but are they much smaller than what's on this stock radio-shack one? all the replacement tips were the exact same size...

either way, after some practice, i think i'll be going for the gold.

thanks for the help again, sb.

really wishing i had a smaller tip,
Mike

 

[sb122606]

you could let the iron cool and file the tip down...then re-tin it!

 

[neverpuffins]

good idea....

so, i got the chip in, and blue light is on, except no red/green flash protect light is visible...is it supposed to be? also, the external switch shows no lights. boots to ms dash, no prob, but basically no signs of modchip.
i assume this is a soldering error.

more help appreciated!

 

[neverpuffins]

wow.....just noticed i didnt solder the d0 or thehd/lan led's cable. lol.

how many times have you guys seen this type of stupid mistake?

praying all goes well when i solder the last three points,
Mike

 

[neverpuffins]

ok, so took care of the hd/lan and d0 points...no prob...but now, still no 3.3v light, and no lights on the external switch, and still booting straight to ms dash, as if no modchip i recognized.
a thread for the same problem suggested touching up pins 9 and 15, if not all?.....do you guys know by what i've told you which pins i definitely soldered correctly?

 

[Computertrendy]

I would jut suggest wiggling the chip down a little further (with the 5v insulated of course) and checking your solder points VERY carefully... Do you have a 1.6 xbox?

 

[neverpuffins]

tried touching things up....now it hangs at the microsoft xbox screen. and still no 3.3v led.

((

 

[neverpuffins]

I would jut suggest wiggling the chip down a little further (with the 5v insulated of course) and checking your solder points VERY carefully... Do you have a 1.6 xbox?

tried it....seems like it's not going any farther....is the chip supposed to fit flush agains the black part of thepin header, or just a little pin sticking out before it? i see the latter.

i chjecked dem points a TON, but if allelse fails, i'll go pick up some desoldering wick tomorrow and start all over...whee!

i'd still love some help....AIM me at Muguh777

 

[neverpuffins]

once chip is seated ABSOLUTELY PERFECTLY (as in not one nanometer to any side), i have 2 blue led's and the green one for a protected bios, BUT SHE JUST TURNS ON AND OFF TWICE, THEN FRAGS EVERYTIME. WHEEEE!

time to do some searching!

 

[Computertrendy]

Yeah a LITTLE pin is supposed to show, so what you're seeing is normal. It's to allow room for the XLCD cord.

Well, good luck man.