Hi everyone! Guess I'm the new one around the block here.
So, I'm working on an XBox One HTPC casemod, and I'm trying to get the stock bluray drive to work with a "normal" mainboard. Basically, the problem is that I can't get the drive to load a disc. When I try to push in a disk, it hits something that feels like an upward ramp about just over an inch into the drive. Here is what I've tried so far.
Drive markings:
P/N: X900640-004
Model: DG-6M2S-01B
FW Ver: 011V
HW Ver: 0302
Manufactured October 2015
My donor XBox for this mod doesn't boot anymore, but still powered up and I was told that it worked fine until the very end. That it still powers up (plus my DMM) quickly confirmed the interesting part of the power cable pinouts that I found online. Here are the readings I got:
Mainboard side connector (measured with drive attached, obviously), top view, key notches at the bottom, black wires on the left:
+12V, +12V, 5V, +3.3V, +3.3V, (missing wire)
GND, GND, GND, GND, +3.3V, +3.0V
On the mainboard I also traced the 12V and 5V connections to a pair of transistors right next to (and towards the back of the case of) the power connector. From there, the 12V goes directly to the big power filter next to the DC inlet connector at the far end of the board. I haven't figured out where 5V comes from, but there is a second almost identical transistor circuit (visibly fed by the same rail) that switches 5V on the HDD power header. Absolutely all pins on the ODD power header seem to go to inner layers, so it is near impossible to visually trace anything else without an xray. Probing test pads in the general area didn't reveal any more clues. >_<
The two 12V pins and the leftmost three ground pins show continuity on the drive side. I can also measure input filter caps (>200uF) on +12V and +5V. The other pins either read at very low (<300p) capacitance, or refuse to settle (inconsistent readings on different range settings). So I hooked up 12V and 5V the obvious way, then put all ~3V pins on 3.3V with 1k pull resistors.
After powering up, all the pulled pins read at around 3.3V, except the one right next to 5V - that reads at barely 1.5V. Figuring that is really low for an output (any output driver should get well under a volt of drop driving against a 1k pull resistor) I suspected it is a supply pin and put it directly on 3.3V. (Please tell me if that assumption is wrong and the connection might cause drive damage in the long run!)
After hooking up a SATA cable, the drive IDs in BIOS and properly shows up as a BD drive in Win7. So I guess I got the power connections right. But now I can't figure out how to get any mechanical reaction from the drive - with one exception: pulling the pin between the last GND and the 3.0V pin to ground causes the drive to make a short buzzing sound. That would be consistent with an eject (and varous pinouts online suggest). But I tried to poke a disk at the drive in every way I can think of, and it refuses to load it.
This is my first time making a console mod and keeping one of the active parts like this. I think I've got the mechanical part of modding figured out (having been making mods since school), but I have little to no experience with console software and firmware and generally what to expect there. So where is the part that I may be missing or doing wrong?
So, I'm working on an XBox One HTPC casemod, and I'm trying to get the stock bluray drive to work with a "normal" mainboard. Basically, the problem is that I can't get the drive to load a disc. When I try to push in a disk, it hits something that feels like an upward ramp about just over an inch into the drive. Here is what I've tried so far.
Drive markings:
P/N: X900640-004
Model: DG-6M2S-01B
FW Ver: 011V
HW Ver: 0302
Manufactured October 2015
My donor XBox for this mod doesn't boot anymore, but still powered up and I was told that it worked fine until the very end. That it still powers up (plus my DMM) quickly confirmed the interesting part of the power cable pinouts that I found online. Here are the readings I got:
Mainboard side connector (measured with drive attached, obviously), top view, key notches at the bottom, black wires on the left:
+12V, +12V, 5V, +3.3V, +3.3V, (missing wire)
GND, GND, GND, GND, +3.3V, +3.0V
On the mainboard I also traced the 12V and 5V connections to a pair of transistors right next to (and towards the back of the case of) the power connector. From there, the 12V goes directly to the big power filter next to the DC inlet connector at the far end of the board. I haven't figured out where 5V comes from, but there is a second almost identical transistor circuit (visibly fed by the same rail) that switches 5V on the HDD power header. Absolutely all pins on the ODD power header seem to go to inner layers, so it is near impossible to visually trace anything else without an xray. Probing test pads in the general area didn't reveal any more clues. >_<
The two 12V pins and the leftmost three ground pins show continuity on the drive side. I can also measure input filter caps (>200uF) on +12V and +5V. The other pins either read at very low (<300p) capacitance, or refuse to settle (inconsistent readings on different range settings). So I hooked up 12V and 5V the obvious way, then put all ~3V pins on 3.3V with 1k pull resistors.
After powering up, all the pulled pins read at around 3.3V, except the one right next to 5V - that reads at barely 1.5V. Figuring that is really low for an output (any output driver should get well under a volt of drop driving against a 1k pull resistor) I suspected it is a supply pin and put it directly on 3.3V. (Please tell me if that assumption is wrong and the connection might cause drive damage in the long run!)
After hooking up a SATA cable, the drive IDs in BIOS and properly shows up as a BD drive in Win7. So I guess I got the power connections right. But now I can't figure out how to get any mechanical reaction from the drive - with one exception: pulling the pin between the last GND and the 3.0V pin to ground causes the drive to make a short buzzing sound. That would be consistent with an eject (and varous pinouts online suggest). But I tried to poke a disk at the drive in every way I can think of, and it refuses to load it.
This is my first time making a console mod and keeping one of the active parts like this. I think I've got the mechanical part of modding figured out (having been making mods since school), but I have little to no experience with console software and firmware and generally what to expect there. So where is the part that I may be missing or doing wrong?