xbox works for variable amounts of time.

pahodgso

Noob Account
Jan 4, 2005
9
0
Green Bay, WI
0
Then screen goes blank and frags.
I have an xbox v1.0, 250 gb drive, reflashed the bios as well. I have re-soldered it and it boots up.
Thinking it might be a heat issue. I have the fan set too 100% and last night it ran for 2 hours. Then the screen went blank and fraged, and the only way to turn it off was to pull the plug. Then I get power on power off power on power off power on and the x3 light is blue and the hdd light and the lan light stay lit. If I remove the power for seems like 20 minutes and plug it back in works fine. I can get into the backup and normally boot to the x3 and also boot to the msdash. I returned it back to stock other then de-soldering the wires and boots fine and works great. I read a bunch of the frag posts but seems weird that it work for variable amounts of time. last time it was on for 5 minutes so I pulled the cover off and felt the Hdd no heat at all. Working with computer and reading here i know that they can get really hot. so I pull the Hdd off to the site and feel both heat sinks still not even warm. checked to see if the X3 was warm and not just fine.

Any help would be great
Paul
 

Shibz

VIP Member
Jun 18, 2004
381
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Pennsylvania
www.mleh.net
With my experiences with my X2.3+ lite, it always did that when the chip wasn't gettting full power, make sure that both power LEDs on the X3 are on.
 

Gek025

VIP Member
Oct 27, 2004
200
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Canada
www.xbox100.com
oh and if you've done the pin header make sure your points are secure, if there's any gap it may be loosing connection there.
 

pahodgso

Noob Account
Jan 4, 2005
9
0
Green Bay, WI
0
both power lights are on and the pin bank is secure i will take pics when i get home from work of everything. i will also doubble check these two things thank you.

Paul

any other advies on things to check would be great.
 

Gek025

VIP Member
Oct 27, 2004
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Canada
www.xbox100.com
First off, there is WAY to much slack on those wires. Thats another accident waiting to happen.
and Second, your D0(grey wire) looks like theres a crimp in it. This could be your problem.
 

nutsak

VIP Member
Oct 27, 2004
311
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California
only looks like one LED on the chip is lit too, the 5v, by the LCD contrast wheel.
 

1XboxGuy

Noob Account
Dec 7, 2004
9
0
USA
If it runs for variable amounts of time, it could be over heating and a loose or "not well solder" point will begin to fail randomly. I've seen this before - you will usually end up w/ a flashing amber led when this is the case.

My suggestion, remove some of the solder on the LPC, there's way too much. It could be that there is so much that it's one big ball on top of the pin and thus not making contact w/ the pin AND the LPC hole, these two need to have perfect contact.

Check the tutorials for a picture of how the solder should look on the LPC.

My two cents
 

1XboxGuy

Noob Account
Dec 7, 2004
9
0
USA
The second light on the chip is the 3.3v it's on the same side as the blue 5v. This light will illuminate blue when the chip is receiving 3.3v from the LPC
 

pahodgso

Noob Account
Jan 4, 2005
9
0
Green Bay, WI
0
I had it just like the tutorial and then added more to make sure it was making contact I am going to remove all solder cut the crimped wire and redo them tonight. i will for sure let you all know the out come I appreciate all the advise and help. i will also get better pictures of everything when I am all done. I got a better camera today so i should be able to macro shoot them.
 

1XboxGuy

Noob Account
Dec 7, 2004
9
0
USA
Sounds good, report back to others can learn.

Also, BTW, you did double-check to make sure your FAN was plugged in right? Just wanted to make sure we check the obvious first before you go doing all that work.
 

Gek025

VIP Member
Oct 27, 2004
200
0
Canada
www.xbox100.com
Make you do 1 then the other, Try the D0 first as i would want to replace that anyway, then check your pinhead solder points, personally those points look spot on. But if the Do isn't the issue then wouldn't hurt right? :D