Xecuter 3 Soldering Video

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Sylvia

Junior Member
Dec 30, 2006
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Okay. I've soldered the pinheader to my motherboard now. I didn't use flux.

When I putted my 30W soldering iron in a 45 degree angle to one side of each pin and the solder to the opposite side (just as in tehsouls manual) it didn't melt within 2-3 seconds so I didn't dared to wait for it to melt because I'm very very afraid to burn my motherboard, so I putted the solder closer to the iron until the solder lightly touched the iron and it melted fine and flowed on to the pins.

But I didn't put much solder to each pin because now it's time for me to solder the 1.6 rebuild PCB (I have an v1.6 xbox) and I don't want to have too much solder standing in my way.

Martin C: The soldering iron you used in the movie, how many Watt has it ???
 
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Martin C

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Jan 10, 2004
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My iron has a variable wattage from 10w to 50w. For the work I do, I leave it set at around 15-20w.

What solder are you using? This is more important than the iron.

Martin
 

Sylvia

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Dec 30, 2006
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Martin C: I use rosin cored solder and I like it !!!

I've read on a site that you may not go over 30W when soldering in a PS2 or Xbox. They recommend 15W "but some people go as high as 30W" they wrote. And on the store that I bought my iron I could only choose between 30W and 60W. All the others were soldering stations.
 
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Sylvia

Junior Member
Dec 30, 2006
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Martin C said:
Get a branded solder - Antec or multicore(tm) will be fine. Just don't buy their own brand stuff - the melting point is fine if you have a 50W iron, but crap for a 15-20W.

Only reason to steer clear of rosin flux is because you need a flux remover for any excess since it's pretty messy once set. Also keep away from acid flux since it will eat away at the board.

I use a 'no-clean' flux pen mostly - the 'no-clean' part gives it away!

Martin
I am gonna desolder my pinheader (don't ask why) and I need some flux (don't ask why on this either). I bought a 50 ml bottle of Multi-Flux (they didn't have a no-clean flux pen) and on the store it was stated: "replaces hydrocloric acid in all kinds of soldering" and "for soft soldering". And the vendor said that I could use it for electronics.

Do I need to have a "flux remover" and if yes, why ???
Or should I still try to get a "No-Clean"-flux pen ???

I would prefer to keep the bottle and use it since it would be cheaper and faster and with "faster" I mean that I would have to wait a couple of days for the "no-clean flux pen" to arrive but I've got the receipt left and the bottle is unopened so I could hand it back to where I bought it and get all the money back.

What's the best thing to do ???
 

Martin C

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Firstly, do you need to keep the pinheader you're removing? You can pick up header pins from most electronic component stores.

I wouldn't use the multi-flux. Most soldering stuff is for 'normal' solder jobs (i.e large points, big PCBs etc.). Without knowing what's in it, it's hard to advise.

The best way to remove a pinheader (with no intention of keeping it) is with desoldering braid and a spare solder tip - one you're not going to use again for intricate work.

Don't desolder the points from the bottom - use your spare nib and melt through the black plastic part of the pinheader so you can get to each pin. Heat one at a time and *GENTLY* pull with pliers - if you've melted the solder, it should just come out with no resistance.

It gets a little smelly, (what with the molten plastic) but you'll protect your precious motherboard.

Once all pins are out, get some desoldering braid and clean the holes. Method 2 of removing solder from the holes is to use a solder sucker. Support the board in a vertical position and working on one hole at a time, melt the solder from one side and use the sucker on the other.

Martin
 

Sylvia

Junior Member
Dec 30, 2006
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Martin C: I've found a No-Clean flux pen on ELFA.se . The brand is Kester. I also found a Flux Remover Pen for No-Clean flux. Will I need to buy a Flux Remover Pen too to remove the No-Clean flux or will just the No-Clean flux pen be enough ??? Do you use a flux remover pen ???

Another question: When I try to attach some solder to the iron tip to "pick up" some solder the solder refuses to attach to the tip, it just melt and drip down to the table. Am I doing something wrong ???

And the last one: I have de-soldered my X3CE completely from my v1.6 mobo now. But it's still messed up. And the solder that I put to the Alternative 5V on the top of the board is still left. I personally don't think that it's necessary to remove the solder from there because it's clean and do not join anything other. Am I wrong ??? Do I still need to remove the solder from the Alternate 5V to solve my problem even if it doesn't join anything ???
 

Sylvia

Junior Member
Dec 30, 2006
18
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Hey you Martin C: You don't want anyone PM you asking for support so I'm doing it here right now:

You know the soldering video you made. Did your iron ever touch the board ???

I think it looks so but I'm asking you just to be sure.
 

Martin C

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Jan 10, 2004
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Scotland, UK
www.team-xecuter.com
Sylvia said:
Hey you Martin C: You don't want anyone PM you asking for support so I'm doing it here right now:

You know the soldering video you made. Did your iron ever touch the board ???

I think it looks so but I'm asking you just to be sure.
Cool, ask away - this is what the boards are for!

Yes, my iron touches the LPC ring and the pin at the same time. If you don't heat the LPC ring, the solder won't melt onto it and you're left with a solder blob on the pin.

Martin
 

dubizoobi

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Jan 18, 2010
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Hi..
Thanks..
I have a NZB capable newsgroup downloader so I extract the attached file and run the NZB.i run properly So that It is very nice & no need to download all the headers from the full group.
 
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