JTAG zephyr jtag e79

[afsilver]

so just recived me rrod zephyr pre jtaged.
fixed rrod with rrod repair kit pro II w/o problem.
updated to latest freeboot 13599 using flash360 again w/o problem.
took a break a couple of hours and finally dicided to install dashlauch and xex menu and so on.. but when i turned it on it went all e79 on my ass!
so i checked the wiring and all looked perfect, so i hooked it up to the nand-x and rewrote xell (hdmi) and latest freeboot using jtag tool everything went straight forward no issues but still e79.
no im clueless and considering alt. smc but i can't really tell what the smc the original modder used, never looked at a jtag zephyr before :facepalm:

 

[M AzeeM K]

These are the original Jtag points. Using the alternate Jtag points/SMC should fix this for you.

 

[afsilver]

good good! but why e79 all of a sudden any ideas? ive heard zephyr's just love those e79 errors.

btw. secondary error code gave 1033

thanx!

edit: took a look at your tut for alt smc. but it only showed the qsb's, what would be the easyest points for me considering whats already installed. i got some leftovers from buying the nand-x kit, ive used the qsb's and everything needed for a xenon, so basiclly the wires to connect to nand-x and the red and yellow wires that goes in the jtag qsb is all i got left.

and when i look at the nand-x installation guide it says top & rol is standard but mine does not go to the rol it goes underneath the board.. i'm getting more and more confused the more i investigate..

 

[M AzeeM K]

^ The tutorial actually shows where you have to solder the wires.

One of the wire has to be soldered on the reverse side of the motherboard i.e it goes from J2D2.2 to Q2N1:

The other one goes from J2D2.1 to the OPEN_TRAY signal. It can be either put on the top of the motherboard at the following point:

Or on the reverse side from J2D2.1 to OPEN_TRAY as shown:

The Jumper wire between J2D2.4 and J2D2.7 doesn't need to be touched.

After this, all you have to do is to create a freeboot image with the Alternate Jtag/SMC option using Jtag Tool and write it to the console. All Done.

 

[afsilver]

ok so i got to it this morning did the yellow wire, and decided to post some pic's in case.

so the loose red wire in the first pic goes to open tray signal?

and in the second pic there is a intentional bridge is it suppose to be there? perhaps because i'm not using the qsb's?

edit: your last pic shows diode end on tray_open signal, but my diode is on the oposite side does it matter?

 

[afsilver]

so if i've understood everything correct this is it then i'm good to go?

is this the "aud_clamp and dvd_tray" or "aud_clamp only"?

update: i chose "aud_clamp & dvd_tray" smc points, xell (hdmi), dash 13599 and created a new freeboot on original nand.bin and wrote it to the nand. now when i turn it on using powerbutton it ejects tray and blinks green in center till it gives e79 again, but if i turn it on using eject it does not eject the tray it only turns on and gives e79! gawd i just wanna flip that shait! what did i do wrong!?

 

[WNYConsoles]

You said this was pre-jtagged?? Did you dump the nand before writing anything to it?

 

[afsilver]

You said this was pre-jtagged?? Did you dump the nand before writing anything to it?

yes i selected full nand dump in flash360 ( if that's what the app was called ) so it is stored on the hdd. do you think the update was a failure? it rebooted successful (confirmed dashboard 13599) after the update and i could lauch xexmenu and fsd 2.0 no probs. it was first when i started it later that evening it gave e79.

i'm considering to redo all jtag from scratch, i do have the original nand, could i flash it to nand and test or do i have to/should i remove the jtag wiring first?

update (yes i'm impatient): original nand dump worked great, so that must mean the wiring is incorrect/bad? nobody see anything fishy in my pics? i'm very close to just desolder and order the qsb but it has to ship from uk witch could take up to 2 weeks! 5days if i'm lucky!

 

[afsilver]

anyone out there that can help? i guess everyone is busy glitching consoles...

 

[Martin C]

If it was working and now all you're getting is E79, it's possible that either TDI or TMS on J2D2 is at fault.

Get a multimeter and select Ohms (range up to 10k should be enough).

Put the black probe on a ground point and the red probe directly on J2D2.1 (you don't need the board plugged in to the PSU). Do the same with J2D2.2 and let me know your values.

 

[afsilver]

my multimeter only has one option for ohms witch is 1k, but on both points i get "OL" no respons at all, but when i for example try j2d2.5 to ground i get 1071-1075..

 

[Martin C]

OL = overload. The values are more than 1k. You should have 10k, 100k etc markings on the multimeter, so choose one of these.

 

[afsilver]

OL = overload. The values are more than 1k. You should have 10k, 100k etc markings on the multimeter, so choose one of these.

http://www.hatling.no/spenningstestere/fluke-t5-600-elektrisk-tester.html

specs say "Motstand 0 – 1000Ω." ( resistans 0 - 1000Ω )

need to get a new one then! :facepalm: or borrow one.. will try as soon as i get one!

 

[Martin C]

WOW! I can't believe Fluke would make a meter which could only test up to 1000ohms! That's crazy.

OL actually means over limit, but it could be because there is no circuit between ground and the point and would definitely explain why you're getting E79. The sooner you can beg/borrow a multimeter with a better range, the better.

 

[afsilver]

got a hold off a multimeter! i reads 1.54-1.56 on both points when using "20k ohm"

 

[afsilver]

i was just wondering what the two black "thingys" soldered to J2D2.1 and J2D2.2 are. you see them in the picture in the first post. i'm really looking forward to get this jtag up and running.. such i shame i don't understand this type of electronics..

 

[BL4K3Y]

I think those are transistors.

 

[Martin C]

got a hold off a multimeter! i reads 1.54-1.56 on both points when using "20k ohm"

ok - values look good.

---------- Post added at 16:34 ---------- Previous post was at 16:29 ----------

Can you take new pics of your install?

 

[afsilver]

I think those are transistors.

was wondering because the transistor on J2D2.1 is only connected to the two lower pins, since "m azeem k" told me to rewire the jtag points so i just cut the diode of as if i was using the qsb's. now the upper pin is connected to free air..

ok - values look good.

excelent any idea what to check next? tried to test the diodes but did'nt know what to expect ( what readings where inconclusive and whitch ones were'nt ). fyi. i am currently using a digital meter with the ability to test diodes.

did'nt notice your other question there, why would you want new pictures? i have not changed anything since last upload..

 

[Martin C]

was wondering because the transistor on J2D2.1 is only connected to the two lower pins, since "m azeem k" told me to rewire the jtag points so i just cut the diode of as if i was using the qsb's. now the upper pin is connected to free air..

excelent any idea what to check next? tried to test the diodes but did'nt know what to expect ( what readings where inconclusive and whitch ones were'nt ). fyi. i am currently using a digital meter with the ability to test diodes.

did'nt notice your other question there, why would you want new pictures? i have not changed anything since last upload..

Because from what you're saying, you're not longer connecting to the leg of the transistor, which is wrong.